tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-84064362869793427612024-02-07T21:44:36.748-05:00NY Tour GuyTips, advice, and fun info for your trip to greatest city on Earth. From a 10-year veteran tour guide of NYC.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02913900331338800605noreply@blogger.comBlogger55125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8406436286979342761.post-14019437301728520152017-03-21T16:56:00.001-04:002017-04-06T20:10:10.877-04:0030 Days in NYC (Day 12) - South Brooklyn<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN9ManrZoR7cmoZcI2H_zAhYANgzKox3z_Jh97UAOk7s5sr37pVR0ZsDOzrPMeJuUOM_LZWLf2eP67eN4yaVwEcnSoEaWa5OAWOigTSGu_BGfPuWXuVQGM4n-NqM2ifW5zC0erlpEjgCI/s1600/Day+12+Sign.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN9ManrZoR7cmoZcI2H_zAhYANgzKox3z_Jh97UAOk7s5sr37pVR0ZsDOzrPMeJuUOM_LZWLf2eP67eN4yaVwEcnSoEaWa5OAWOigTSGu_BGfPuWXuVQGM4n-NqM2ifW5zC0erlpEjgCI/s320/Day+12+Sign.jpg" width="212" /></a> For the 12th day of our month in New York, it's back to Brooklyn for a chance to walk through some of the most handsome, historic, and charming neighborhoods in the city. These days, the neighborhoods south of Atlantic Avenue from Brooklyn Heights have a patchwork of names: Cobble Hill, Boerum Hill, Carroll Gardens, Red Hook, and Gowanus. They have been divvied up by highway construction and by real estate interests. But for many generations, this was just called South Brooklyn. This area began development as a rural retreat but very quickly grew up with the growth of New York and its harbor in the 1830s. The area south of Atlantic Avenue officially became part of the City of Brooklyn in 1834 and was connected to Manhattan by the South Ferry in 1836. Stately homes were built that housed upper-middle class professionals and these remain the typical structures of South Brooklyn today. As the 20th century progressed, the wealthy residents moved out and were replaced by immigrants including the requisite Italians and Irish, but even some unique communities such as Syrian/Lebanese immigrants, who still have an influence along Atlantic Avenue, and Mohawk Indians drawn down from Canada to work on the high steel construction projects in Manhattan.<br />
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It wasn't just houses being built here though. South Brooklyn proved ideal as a shipping center. South Brooklyn essentially was a peninsula. Buttermilk Channel, the waterway between Brooklyn and Governors Island and part of New York Harbor, is to the west. When the land abruptly ends at Red Hook the shoreline swings east and forms Gowanus Bay to the south. The east end of the neighborhood was pierced by a marshy lowland filled with brackish channels and sea grass called the Gowanus marshes. Over the middle of the 19th century, all of these waterways would be converted to shipping and industry. The Atlantic and Erie Basins were built as protected dockyards for ships in the 1840s and 1860s. By 1860, the Gowanus channel had been deepened and the marshes around it filled in to create an almost two mile long industrial canal. All this shipping attracted workers to staff the ships, warehouses, and factories. The area hummed as one of the busiest waterfronts in the world well into the 20th century when modern container ships would almost, but not completely, end the shipping to Brooklyn.<br />
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Through it all, the stately homes from the mid-19th century remained in tact. As early as the 1950s well-heeled New Yorkers were eyeing the charming historic properties for renovation and preservation acts in the '60s and '70s assured that the simple and stately old homes would never disappear. Today, the streets are just as likely to be trod by wealthy professionals and their families as Sicilian dockworkers. But look closer and you may see the few cranes along Columbia Street are still unloading ships, and giant cruise lines call at Red Hook on their way to ports all over the world. And along the waterways of South Brooklyn the old warehouses now house breweries, art galleries, distilleries, and performance spaces. The old and new coexist on every street in South Brooklyn<br />
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<b>Day 12 - </b>South Brooklyn<br />
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<b>Morning</b> - Take the F or G subway train to Bergen Street station, located right in the heart of old South Brooklyn. As you exit the subway, start walking east along Bergen and take a left on Hoyt for two blocks to reach Pacific Street. This is the lovely neighborhood now known as Boerum Hill. You will immediately see why these neighborhoods have become some of New York's most trendy spots to live. In most Manhattan neighborhoods, brownstones and brick rowhouses are broken up by taller apartment blocks or just destroyed altogether. But here in Brooklyn, the streets don't look much different than when the blocks were first built up in the decades just before and after the Civil War. A four story rowhouse would seem ostentatious on these blocks. These homes were once the dwellings of working-class Irish and Italians but they have become luxury products for the professional classes now, though that does mean most of the houses have been meticulously restored.<br />
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But there was more than just Irish and Italians who once called these blocks home. Take a right on Pacific and halfway down the block you will notice a small, old church. It is no longer in service and in fact has been converted into a private home. But in the 1940s and 1950s this was Cuyler Presbyterian Church and the services here were not just in English but the indigenous Mohawk language as well. The Mohawk tribe has lived in northern New York and southern Quebec since long before Europeans arrived, and they still live there today. But lest you think that life on the reservation is anything like Pre-Columbian days, the Mohawks have been building skyscrapers for generations. They began in this line of work when they were hired as workers on a railroad bridge through their land in the 1880s and ever since have been renowned as fearless and dexterous workers of the high iron. The Mohawk workers were in demand and there were so many buildings rising in the years after World War II that some of the families relocated from Quebec to Brooklyn. Local stores stocked Mohawk's favorite cornmeal for baking, bars stocked plenty of Canadian beer, and Cuyler's services mixed protestant gospel with indigenous traditions. Even today, workers high atop the new World Trade Center include Mohawk Indians. But they no longer live in NYC, preferring to keep their families in Khanawake Canada and commute down each week for the work. So Mohawk Brooklyn is no more, but its fascinating history lives on in their old church building.<br />
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Take a left and walk up to Atlantic Avenue, one of Brooklyn's most important and busy streets. Along it you will find lots of shops, cafes, and a healthy dose of vintage and antique stores. Keep walking past the Trader Joe's at Court Street and you'll start to see a distinct cultural element assert itself. The signs are suddenly adorned in Arabic. This block is what remains of a once thriving district of Arabic-New Yorkers whose families were mostly from Syria and Lebanon. New York's original "Little Syria" was once in Lower Manhattan, just a few blocks from Battery Park. Immigrants from the Levant, both Muslim and Christian settled there in the early 20th century, and as their families grew older and wealthier many relocated to Brooklyn. Atlantic Avenue became a New York version of the bazaars of the Middle East. Most of the old families have been replaced by new immigrants scattered through Brooklyn. They come from Yemen, Egypt, Pakistan, Iraq, and more. And they can still come to Atlantic Avenue to get a taste of the old country. The big shop on the block is Sahadi's, famous for a dizzying selection of spices, pastries, and more. And it's certainly worth checking the place out and getting lost. But it's also worth checking out the smaller places on the block like Damascus Bakery or Oriental Pastry. These shops are smaller but more focused on Middle Eastern goods. Ask what's fresh and maybe the shopkeepers will invite you to share a thick cup of Arabic coffee.<br />
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/1aqkoKNCVi/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Shawn (@nytourguy)</a> on <time datetime="2015-04-13T13:23:10+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Apr 13, 2015 at 6:23am PDT</time></div>
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Head back to Court Street and turn south. You are now in Cobble Hill, one of the finest historic districts in New York City. Shoppers will enjoy the offerings on Court Street that include a lot of independent boutiques offering cool clothes not found at any old shopping center. Turn west on Congress Street when you've finished perusing the shops and you'll come to Cobble Hill Park. Oddly, this park is one of the most recent additions to the neighborhood, having been built in 1965. The site had been home to some mansions and a church, all of which were empty and set for redevelopment in the 1950s as either a large supermarket or low-rise apartments. But residents stuck together and demanded a sorely needed park which is now the focal point of family life for all the rowhouse residents. One of the unique results of leaving the space open was that it exposed a hidden architectural treasure, a row of former carriage houses that now line the south side of the park along Verandah Place. Before the park was built, these simple rowhouses and stable buildings sat on a narrow mews that was mostly used as a parking area. But the opening of the park meant these protected homes now had some of the best locations in the neighborhood and there is now a unique park that instead of being surrounded by palatial rowhouses for the rich is instead lined by simplest homes in the neighborhood.<br />
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Zigzag south and west one block to Warren Street for another of Cobble Hill's architectural treasures. Alfred Tredway White was a wealthy businessman from old New England stock. He believed in industry but he also believed in philanthropy and in the 1870s he built some of the most innovative, beautiful, and thoughtful homes ever built in New York, and it was all built for poor workers. After passing some backyards on Warren, you'll come to a pair of intricate brick houses with a long, narrow garden between them. Along both sides of the garden are still more ornate, small brick rowhouses facing in towards the greenery. And at the end of the block rises the incredible Tower Building, a building heaving with ornamental arches, balconies, and windows. It looks like an oversized, red brick, Romanesque palace. Both the garden homes and the Tower Building were homes for workers, designed for White as a way of providing hygienic, attractive, modern, dignified homes for poor families. Innovations were everywhere. Each apartment came with toilets decades before tenements had even common toilet facilities. The buildings surrounded a common green space fifty years before developers in Queens would make "garden apartments" a staple of New York City living. Common bathing facilities in the basement pre-date the progressive push for better sanitation in the slums. And while White took a small profit of five percent, he still rented out the apartments for the modern equivalent of $200/month, a sum that is simply impossible for today's Brooklyn. Wrap around the block to Baltic Street to see the buildings from the other side and then take a right on Henry Street.<br />
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/0NajsMtCXK/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Shawn (@nytourguy)</a> on <time datetime="2015-03-14T13:21:42+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Mar 14, 2015 at 6:21am PDT</time></div>
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Walk south through a few more blocks of brownstones until you reach Union Street, the border between Cobble Hill and Carroll Gardens. And if you're feeling up for an old fashioned treat, stop at Brooklyn Farmacy on Henry and Sackett Streets. The space was once a chemist shop, but it has now been wonderfully restored and turned into a nostalgic soda shop. Hop in and get classic soda jerk items rarely found today like root beer floats, lime rickeys, and the venerable egg cream. Never heard of an egg cream? Fear not. For reasons lost to history it contains neither egg nor cream. It's a simple drink made of milk, seltzer, and Brooklyn-made Fox's U-Bet chocolate syrup. And Brooklyn Farmacy has one of the best around.<br />
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<b>Lunch</b> - New York is the quintessential Italian-American city. There are Italians spread all through America from San Francisco and New Orleans to Providence and Pittsburgh. But after hundreds of TV shows, mafia movies, and novels it is New York that is most frequently known for its Italian-ness. And the numbers back this idea up. Of the ten most heavily Italian-American counties in America--by percentage--all ten are in the New York City area. But they don't all come from Manhattan's famous Little Italy. When Italians were immigrating at their highest levels between 1880 and 1924 they were settling all over New York in neighborhoods like East Harlem, Greenwich Village, Belmont in The Bronx, Williamsburg, and South Brooklyn. The South Brooklyn Italian community was supported by the bustling docklands of Brooklyn. The city's largest docks were those along the Hudson River but those were controlled and worked exclusively by the Irish. Graft and corruption was the name of the game on the docks and the old Irish political machine run by Tammany Hall made sure it was Irish workers who made the crews and Irish gangsters that reaped the spoils. So Italian immigrants looked to the huge sets of docks covering the East River in Brooklyn and made that their domain. Court Street in Cobble Hill was and is the center of Italian South Brooklyn. And even though most families have moved to bigger houses in the suburbs or down south, 6,000 or so Italian-Americans still call South Brooklyn home. On Court Street you can still find venerable classics like Monteleone Bakery or Esposito's Pork Store. And if you decide to just grab a hero at Esposito's for lunch, I won't fault you. But there's an even better option hiding down Union Street.<br />
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The Italians who immigrated to New York weren't from all over Italy. They specifically came from the five southernmost provinces of Italy: Campania, Puglia, Calabria, Basilicata, and of course Sicily. And so true New York Italian food means Southern Italian food. And that tradition is kept alive at Ferdinando's Focacceria on Union Street, just west of the Brooklyn Queens Expressway. Ferdinando's opened in 1904 and it retains the tile floors and tin ceiling from its earliest years. The doors are open wide on warm days and the place still feels like a spot a dockworker could get a quick lunch. Indeed some still do for the working cranes of Brooklyn's small container port loom at the end of Union Street. You can order any number of hearty, reasonably-priced pasta dishes, including a Sicilian classic of pasta con sarde. It's a simple red sauce with tiny sardines for salt, raisins for sweetness,plus pine nuts, fennel, and spices. And it's big enough to feed two. But if you were a dockworker in rush, you just need a sandwich. Sure you can get a chicken parm, but you're in Sicily now, get a local favorite like panelle. It's a kind of chickpea fritter topped with ricotta cheese on a homemade roll. But if you really want an adventure get the vastedda. It's a simple sandwich: a homemade roll, soft ricotta and grated caciocavallo cheese, and slow cooked calf spleen. That's it. The taste and texture are a bit funky but the ricotta mellows it out so well that the whole thing ends up being delicious. I ate the whole thing and loved every bite. And for desert, they make one of my favorite homemade cannolis in New York.<br />
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/ogHeRTtCTm/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Shawn (@nytourguy)</a> on <time datetime="2014-05-27T13:23:47+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">May 27, 2014 at 6:23am PDT</time></div>
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<b>Afternoon</b> - After lunch, walk down towards the waterfront. At the end of Union Street take a left on Van Brunt Street. After a ten minute walk, you will be in the isolated, waterfront enclave of Red Hook. This is one of my favorite neighborhoods in New York. The days of the working waterfront don't feel so removed the way they do elsewhere in the city. The piers and basins of Red Hook are still home to working ships such as ferries and tug boats that dock here. Along Van Brunt you will see signs for the Brooklyn Cruise Terminal along the East River and the neighborhood is occasionally transformed by the arrival of a great ship like the Queen Mary 2 which regularly docks in Red Hook on her way to Southampton, England. And you'll know when she's in port because the QM2 is taller than all the buildings in Red Hook. So there is still work happening along the waterfront. Plus many of the old piers and warehouse buildings are still standing and they've not all been turned into trendy condos like in DUMBO. But perhaps the vibe of the neighborhood is most influenced by the fact that Red Hook has no subway line. The closest station to Red Hook is a mile away in Gowanus so residents here have to rely on a bus or, very often a ferry. Red Hook just seems to be facing the water whereas most NYC neighborhoods try to put the water at their back. Mix in the nautical-themed bars, distilleries, and old storehouses and there is an unmistakable maritime vibe to Red Hook.<br />
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Keep walking down Van Brunt Street. This is the main drag of the neighborhood and will being you past most of the restaurants and bakeries here, including Baked at 359 Van Brunt where the brownies come recommended by luminaries like Oprah Winfrey and Martha Stewart. Eventually, Van Brunt ends at the entrance to Erie Basin, one of the protected harbors where boats still come and go in Red Hook. The water's end of Van Brunt is dominated by two dozen warehouses in three buildings all from the 1850s and 1860s. On the right, four massive storehouses have been converted to a large Fairway grocery store which provides jobs and food but also causes lots of traffic. On the left are 20 more storehouses, running all the way onto the pier forming the breaker guarding Erie Basin. There are a mix of businesses located here today, from apple processors to art galleries. If it's a weekend, walk out on the Van Brunt pier and find the Brooklyn Waterfront Artists' Coalition. This massive space is 25,000 square foot exhibit hall run by the more than 400 artists that make up the coalition. It is the largest artist run gallery in the city and it is open every weekend from Spring to Fall. It's large space means there will always be a great variety of contemporary local art and you're bound to find something you like. It's almost more like a contemporary art museum rather than just a gallery and walking through it was one of my favorite art experiences in the city.<br />
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From here, walk behind the Fairway along the waterfront. Here the waterfront has been restored and converted into public walkways and gardens. You can see the old train tracks leading to the docks in the sidewalks and there are often historic trolley cars parked behind Fairway (four were removed in 2014 but now a different historic trolley has taken their place). As you round the corner onto Conover Street, you'll see the Lehigh Valley No. 79 Barge. This is a rare preserved railroad barge that was built in 1914 and belonged to the Lehigh Railroad. Since New York City is made up of islands, the waterways of New York harbor used to be filled with goods being transported to and from the docks of New York. Railroads like the Lehigh Valley could only run their tracks as far as the New Jersey shoreline. From there barges had to carry the goods needed for manufacturing or sale to Brooklyn. Barge #79 would have carried everything from hemp, jute, grans and cottons to tobacco, fruit, vegetables, coffee, and cacao to and from the Lehigh train yards in Jersey City. The vessel was in decay but was bought in 1985 and restored. Amazingly, the barge is now a family home that is also used as a part-time museum and performance space. It is open to the public every Thursday evening and Saturday afternoon and is well worth a visit to see some of the working waterfront of a century ago. Keep walking past through the Pier 44 garden and around the Liberty warehouses and walk to the water's edge on Van Dyke Street. Before heading into the park make a pit stop at Steve's Key Lime Pies. Here in Red Hook Steve makes Key Lime pies for sale at restaurants and grocers all through the city. But at their storefront you can get a one-of-a-kind frozen treat: the Swingle. It's a 4-inch wide key lime pie on a stick dipped in dark chocolate. Past Steve's is Louis Valentino Park, one of the small greenspaces dotting the old waterfront. The nicest thing here is the restored pier which can be walked to the end. From there, you'll have a wonderful harbor view and the best view of the Statue of Liberty that can be had from land in New York City.<br />
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/o0uuvvNCQy/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Shawn (@nytourguy)</a> on <time datetime="2014-06-04T13:31:38+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Jun 4, 2014 at 6:31am PDT</time></div>
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If at this point you're feeling thirty, you're in luck. The old warehouses of Red Hook are ideal for some of the growing craft beverage movement and its possible to enjoy beer, wine, and liquor all made right in Red Hook. Sadly, the primary neighborhood brewer, Sixpoint Brewery, is not open for tours though that may change in the future. In the meantime, The Liberty Warehouses you passed earlier on Beard Street, are home to Red Hook Winery. You can hop into their industrial brick tasting room and enjoy a taste of their offerings. All of the grapes come from local wine regions like the Finger Lakes and Long Island so you'll be tasting a true sampling New York wines. The tasting room is open until 5 PM every day. Walking back to Conover Street and taking a left for two blocks brings you to Cacao Prieto and Widow Jane Distilling. This joint operation is both a chocolate factory and distillery. Cacao Prieto focuses on organic Dominican chocolate and chocolate liqueurs while Widow Jane uses limestone cave water and heirloom corn to create unique whiskey varieties. Both are open every day for tasting, and tours go out through the facility on Saturdays. If you're still thirsty you can walk ten minutes east on Coffey Street towards the giant Ikea--which I've tried to avoid mentioning--and sample the whiskeys, gins, and moonshine from Van Brunt Distillery at 6 Bay Street which is open Thursdays through Sundays.<br />
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<b>Dinner - </b>Red Hook is a great neighborhood for food, as are the nearby neighborhoods of Gowanus and Carroll Gardens. But since Red Hook has such a nautical feel, I always find myself in the mood for seafood. Right along Van Brunt Street across from Fairway is the Brooklyn Crab. This crabhouse is a sprawling, mostly outdoor seafood shack. It has bar spaces, picnic spaces, and in nice weather there are yards to play cornhole, table tennis, or even a few holes of mini golf. There is something satisfying about an evening in Red Hook spent slurping oysters, cracking crabs, and enjoying a beer with the sunset over the harbor. The other great seafood option is Red Hook Lobster Pound, located up Van Brunt closer to the cruise terminal. It may not have the views of Brooklyn Crab but they specialize in Maine lobster trucked in fresh everyday. Whether you get whole lobster steamed or tossed into a New England lobster roll it's fresh and delicious. There are plenty of other options too. Right next to Brooklyn Crab is Hometown BBQ, one of New York's best barbecue spots and famous for their Texas-style brisket. All of those places are more picnic style places. If you want a more traditional dinner service, The Good Fork on Van Brunt is a sit-down space with a menu that takes American classics and adds subtle Korean twists to the flavors.<br />
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<b>Evening</b> - This is one of my favorite areas of the city to spend a night out. There's a lot of cool spots for performances, live music, and games and it feels away from most of the nightlife hordes of clubgoers, tourists, and suburban partyers. If you elect to stay in Red Hook, you must make one of NYC's bar pilgrimages to Sunny's. Sunny's is a an old waterfront bar, the kind stevedores and sailors once hung out in. It's been around since the 1890s in one form or another and like most places that old it has managed to change its stripes over and over without ever losing some essential essence. Maybe it's as simple as the nautical affect. Maybe there's just some timeless scent to the old boards, but it's a transporting place. It has been a strictly seaman's joint where workers would shape up out front. During the empty days of waterfront decline it stayed open just so some regulars could get some soup, a sandwich, or a beer in the afternoon, but it's when it became run by the third generation of Balzano's, the late Sunny Balzano that its current era began. Sunny was a neighborhood old timer and an artist. He was someone who could unite the old Red Hook with the new artists populating Brooklyn. He ran the old joint as a "non-profit" open only on Fridays where "donations" paid for drinks, dancers roamed the bar, and musicians played bluegrass, shanties, and Texas blues. The place became a new Red Hook icon but finally the 21st Century brought a city crackdown that required renovations and a proper liquor license. Hurricane Sandy forced the Atlantic Ocean right through the bar and took four years of fundraising to reopen from. And after all that, Sunny passed away last year in 2016. But the bar lives on. It's not as ramshackle or rambunctious as in years past. And it's now open 6 nights a week. But Sunny's still has live music most nights, including their traditional bluegrass jam on Saturdays. It's worth a trip to at least experience one drink at one of the great old bars of New York. And if just a little folk or bluegrass isn't enough and you want more, it's about a mile up Van Brunt Street to the Jalopy Theater at Woodhull and Columbia. The Jalopy is dedicated to traditional roots music in America, whether it be Irish, Jewish, Folk, Country, Bluegrass, Jugbands, Ragtime or any other classic form. They not only have a performance space, but a tavern with live music and regular classes in roots music and instruments. If you have any interest in old-timey music, you must check out the Jalopy.<br />
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Meanwhile, just to the east in Gowanus is a treasure trove of nightlife and performance spaces. The Gowanus Channel is still the artery of the neighborhood but these days the industry is mostly gone and left behind it is pollution and abandoned spaces. In short, it's perfect for different nightlife. One of the best venues in the neighborhood is the Bell House on 7th Street between 2nd and 3rd Avenues. The Bell House is a decent sized concert and performance space that hosts a great variety of entertainment. There are concerts of course, featuring plenty of hip indie artists. There are also themed dance parties that provide a great alternative to the clubs of the Meatpacking District. Their regular dance party The Rub is an eclectic mix of hip hop, EDM, rock, and anything the DJs find cool. Others are themed parties like the New Wave themed dance party or a 90s hip hop night. But the Bell House has recently carved out a unique niche for itself. It has become NYCs home for podcasts, radio shows, and storytelling. Shows at the Bell House are often literary, witty, narrative comic performances from stand-up comedians, podcasters, or radio shows. Perhaps the best example is The Moth. The Moth is a recurring performance where audience members tell stories. That is the entire show. It's a disarmingly simple premise. Sometimes there are themes but often not. The idea is we all have stories we tell our friends and family regularly. You will be hanging out with friends or family and someone will say "Oh, tell that story of the time..." Well this is your chance to share those stories with an audience of strangers. The stories are usually funny, often poignant, and provide a wonderful atmosphere of random people sharing something intimate about themselves. Other Bell House podcast/radio shows include Ask Me Another, which is a trivia and puzzle show broadcast on the local public radio affiliate WNYC. Another NPR inspired show is The Night Vale which is a twist on Prairie Home Companion but set in a spooky desert town where strange things are reported to happen. There's lots more like this making the Bell House the city's destination for smart, nerdy fun. And if the Bell House is full, meander up the street the DeGraw Street and head to Littlefield for a similar mix of storytelling, comedy, music, dancing, and burlseque.<br />
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And finally, one of the most unique places to hang for the evening is the Royal Palms on Union Street. Brooklyn's hip young kids have a way of taking something hopelessly uncool and making it cool by winking at how uncool it is. Need an example? Take shuffleboard. It's a game hopelessly associated senior centers and cruise ships filled with retirees. It was a game that was the butt of jokes for decades. So of course you can now play it in a hip industrial space with cool cocktails and understated tropical decor. The Royal Palms Shuffleboard Club might be the epitome of ironic hipster fun. But when was the last time you actually played shuffleboard? it's frankly a really fun game, even if like me the last time you played was at a senior center. It has the skill requirements of bowling but requires a greater degree of strategy and teamwork. You may go there for the irony, but you'll come out a fan of shuffleboard.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02913900331338800605noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8406436286979342761.post-54219937848054591302017-02-17T09:00:00.000-05:002017-04-06T20:09:58.201-04:0030 Days in NYC (Day 11) - Williamsburg, Greenpoint, & Bushwick <br />
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One of the most challenging facets of life in New York is the way the sand shifts under your feet constantly. Just as the desert dunes change place with the wind, neighborhoods in New York are constantly in flux. Where once was factories is now galleries and what was once the sights and smells of Italy are now Chinese. The character or appearance of a community can flip in a generation and it can be hard to keep up with the changes. And the places in New York City where the changes are fastest paced are in the northern neighborhoods of Brooklyn. Greenpoint, Bushwick, Williamsburg, and Ridgewood Queens have come to epitomize edgy cool. They have attracted artists, musicians, and other creative residents for the past 25 years. Hip residents first began by moving into the abandoned industrial spaces of the Williamsburg waterfront because of the rising rents in Manhattan. But the high rents have been spreading through North Brooklyn and so have the bars, galleries, street art, and cafes. But don't think that it's all bearded artists in these neighborhoods. Much of these neighborhoods are still defined by immigrants old and new. Williamsburg still counts old Italians and a growing Hasidic Jewish community among its residents. Greenpoint is still known as the center for Polish immigrants. And Bushwick is one of the most heavily Latino neighborhood in NYC with older Puerto Rican and Dominican immigrants being replaced by Mexican and Ecuadoran arrivals. Many of the old cultural landmarks from these groups remain and their food and culture is a link to a past that seems to slip away faster all the time. So now is the time to explore the old and the new in North Brooklyn.<br />
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<b>Day 11</b> - Williamsburg, Greenpoint, Bushwick, and Ridgewood<br />
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<b>Morning</b> - The day starts by heading to the old German enclave of Ridgewood, Queens. The neighborhood may be in a different borough from the other spots on this day, but this is one of the few spots where NYC's five boroughs actually touch each other. The zig-zag line separating Brooklyn and Queens causes next door neighbors to live in different boroughs. But the lack of a physical border means that Bushwick and Ridgewood are closely connected. Many Ridgewood addresses use the Brooklyn numbering system, not the one from Queens. Some Ridgewood businesses even had Brooklyn zip codes until the 70s. And we will start by taking the M train. There are lots of special events and activities in these neighborhoods on weekends so I think that's the best time to do this day on a Saturday or Sunday if the opportunity presents itself. And if it's a weekend you will have to transfer to the M because it's weekday route is truncated. You can pick up the M at the start of the line at the Delancey-Essex Street stations or you can transfer from the L train at Myrtle-Wyckoff Streets. Either way, take the M to Seneca Ave.<br />
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/oBdsictCRR/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Shawn (@nytourguy)</a> on <time datetime="2014-05-15T15:41:31+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">May 15, 2014 at 8:41am PDT</time></div>
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When you reach the station, walk under the elevated tracks one block further to Onderdonk Ave and take a right. Within a block you begin to see the yellow brick that defines Ridgewood's architecture. Despite Queens' enormous size, there are only 5 significant historic districts located in the borough, and the homes in Ridgewood are the oldest of the group. The blocks surrounding Onderdonk Ave are all developments called "Mathews Model Homes." These yellow brick tenements were built in the early 20th century and were major upgrades over the tenements of old Manhattan. While they were meant for workers, they still had private bathrooms, plenty of air shafts, and a limited number of apartments in each building. Plus they were built with the yellow brick from Staten Island that makes Ridgewood stand out among the red brick and brownstone that defines NYC's old homes. At Catalpa Avenue, hang a left to walk by St. Matthias Catholic Church. It's one of the few NYC churches still holding services in German, though Polish and Spanish masses occur as well. And if you double back down Catalpa to Seneca Ave, take a left and pop into the old German bakery Rudy's for a breakfast pastry. They do the old German classics here like Linzer Tarts, Black Forest Cake, Apple Turnovers, and Strudel. There's coffee and a small seating area as well so enjoy a light and sweet breakfast before heading back out.<br />
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After Rudy's, head to the left on Myrtle Avenue. This is the main commercial strip of the neighborhood and it's charming despite the "business improvement district" bringing in lots of chain stores. The odd angles of the intersections make for dramatic architecture, and the five-pointed Forest Avenue intersection feels more like the main square of a small town than a part of America's biggest city. Just past the lovely Ridgewood Savings Bank on Forest Ave is a small square leading to 71st Avenue. This is where Queens' disorganized street "grid" gets confusing. There are a whole lot of numbered streets, some called streets while others are roads, avenues, or places. And some go east-west and some north-south. Because the numbers in both directions nearly match in Ridgewood it can get very confusing. Nevertheless, walk along 71st Ave to 60th Lane and take a left. This is the heart of Ridgewood's yellow brick rowhouses. the side streets running on either side are lined with picture perfect stoops and graceful bay windows. If you walk 6 blocks and take a right on 67th Avenue you'll nearly be back to the M train. In fact, the homes on the north side of 67th Ave have the bizarre feature of the elevated M train tracks running right through the back alley behind them. So far, there isn't much evidence of trendy businesses in Ridgewood, but a few new bars and galleries are popping up a little further west. But to see where the art scene is really taking off, we have to return to Brooklyn. At the end of the block, you can get on a Manhattan-bound M train for 4 stops to Knickerbocker Ave. <br />
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As you exit it Knickerbocker Ave, you're now in the Brooklyn neighborhood of Bushwick. Take a left on Knickerbocker Ave and head west. You'll immediately notice that the neighborhood is heavily Hispanic. Bushwick has been home for many generations to Brooklyn's largest Puerto Rican and Dominican community and is now home to growing numbers of immigrants from Mexico and Central America. The newly arriving artists may get most of the press, but the new immigrants have been just as important to bringing Bushwick back from some tough decades. Bushwick was one of the most blighted areas in New York in the 70s and 80s. Fires and violence were common in those days, and the neighborhood became infamous when it was the epicenter of looting in the 1977 blackout. But now the neighborhood, while still poor, is lively and bustling. You may not find any fancy boutiques on Knickerbocker Avenue, but you won't find any empty storefronts either. Keep walking to Suydam Street and head into Maria Hernandez Park. The neighborhood's green square is bustling today, but it used to be not much more than an open air drug market. Maria Hernandez was a community activist who tried to push drug dealers out of her block and the park. Her husband Carlos frequently fought with dealers outside their home. It all ended one morning in 1989 when bullets crashed through the Hernandez's window and Maria was killed. Today the park bears her name and is full of families, dogs, joggers, and full of life. Cut across the park to Starr Street and take a right.<br />
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Along Starr Street, street art begins to proliferate as you walk two blocks past Wyckoff and up to St. Nicholas Ave. Take a left and you will find yourself in the street art center of NYC. As industrial buildings replace the tenements and rowhouses, all of a sudden the walls are festooned with dozens of world class murals, tags, wheatpastes, and more. And all of it is only 5 years old. The curator of all this work is a surprising figure, a mid-30's owner of a local factory and children of Sicilian immigrants named Joe Ficalora. As Ficalora tells the story, his father was killed by being stabbed during a mugging in 1991. The graffiti tags all over the neighborhood were a perpetual reminder of the street crime that took his father's life. His mother died of cancer in 2011 and in his time of grief, the daily battle against graffiti became too much to bear. So he decided if you can't beat 'em, join 'em. His company's work with city government made him adept at securing permits. So he googled street artists, found some he liked, invited them to paint his walls, and a gallery was born. Now the streets for blocks feature internationally renowned artists like Dasic Fernandez, DALeast, Beau Stanton, and Ta Kaiya Blaney. The pieces change all the time so come and wander the streets around St. Nicholas and Troutman and see what you like.<br />
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<b>Lunch:</b> There are new, hip places popping up all the time in this section of Bushwick. The Rookery Bar on Troutman serves Jamaican-influenced sandwiches and other casual food. Sea Wolf on the corner of Troutman and Wyckoff serves a seafood menu in a sunny, airy spot. Down on Starr and Wyckoff a block away is Hi Hello, a great for creative sandwiches like a grilled cheese with goat leg. But my choice would be to ignore the trendy spots and head for a favorite of some of the other new arrivals in Bushwick, Mexican immigrants. On Starr Street between St. Nicholas and Wyckoff is Los Hermanos Tortilleria. This isn't an abandoned factory, it's an actual factory cranking out fresh tortillas to sell to restaurants and locals throughout the day. Luckily some of their space is filled with tables and you can sample their tortillas by ordering a set of any of their classic tacos. These aren't Americanized knockoffs but the real deal, shelled with two fresh tortillas and filled with slow cooked meat, cilantro, onion, and salsa verde. It's simple, cheap, delicious, and a neighborhood touchstone that appeals to everyone old and new.<br />
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<b>Afternoon:</b> If it's a weekend afternoon in Williamsburg, the neighborhood will be alive with shoppers, brunchers, and young people out enjoying Brooklyn's hotspot. So walk down to Wyckoff and hop on a Manhattan-bound L train. Depart at Bedford Avenue, the last stop before Manhattan. You are now in the heart of Williamsburg and it was here that artists started venturing across the river in the 90s. Exit the subway and walk down North 7th Street towards the river. Between Wythe Avenue and Kent Avenue is the weekend market Artists & Fleas. It's a great space with dozens of vendors selling homemade accessories, crafts, vintage clothes, and more. It's a fun space and New Yorkers' creativity is on full display. If you're a music fan, you can walk two blocks north to Rough Trade, a combination concert space, coffee shop, and record store. And if you're a beer fan, walk four blocks north to Brooklyn Brewery, which is open for tours and tastings on weekends. Williamsburg used to be a German neighborhood with a rich brewing heritage. It lasted until 1976 when the Schaeffer Brewery south of the Williamsburg Bridge closed, thus ending hundreds of years of commercial beer making in New York City. It would be 20 years until the young microbrewers at Brooklyn Brewery were able to open a brewery in this former Matzo Factory at N 11th Street and Wythe Avenue. Today they are the largest beer maker in the city and their flagship lager is found in almost every single bar in the five boroughs.<br />
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/4y_UGbNCbk/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Shawn (@nytourguy)</a> on <time datetime="2015-07-06T13:40:22+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Jul 6, 2015 at 6:40am PDT</time></div>
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No matter what direction you walk from North 7th Street, the skyline of Manhattan will loom to your west. This section of Williamsburg was once a giant industrial hub with factories and warehouses surrounding a pier and train yard facility at North 7th. When the port facility closed in 1983 the warehouses, tracks, and piers sat in decay. And it was these facilities that first drew the creative set to Williamsburg. And as an added bonus, those abandoned piers and rooftops provided some stunning views of Manhattan. As Williamsburg began more popular, the city decided redevelopment was in order so they rezoned the waterfront in 2003. Since then, huge luxury towers have been built blocking the views, funneling the wind, and drawing wealthy professionals to the neighborhood. But on the positive side, these developments were required to provide park space along the waterfront. So now you can walk along the waterfront promenade and appreciate the panoramic sunset views of the skyline. And if you arrive on a warm Saturday, you may find the huge Smorgasburg food market which features dozens of unique food vendors.<br />
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Walk south along any of the avenues and you will eventually cross under the Williamsburg Bridge. The iconic view of the bridge is just south of the underpass on Broadway/S 6th Street and Bedford Ave. From here the road opens to a wide plaza and the bridge rises in the distance. When the bridge opened in 1902 it was only the second bridge over the East River and it irrevocably changed the neighborhood. As the 20th century dawned 100,000 people lived in the neighborhood. 10 years later, the migration over the bridge from Manhattan meant that 250,000 would call Williamsburg home. Williamsburg was, for a time, the most crowded neighborhood in NYC. Since 2014, this plaza has been graced by a remarkable work of art, a black and white mural of a teenage girl with an inscrutable distant gaze. The piece is huge and captivating, and it's all based on the work of a local high school student. The original piece is actually a photograph that won its creator, young Steven Paul, a prestigious national art award. The commercial art company Colossal Media was so taken with the piece that they offered to have their artists recreate the photograph on the most dramatic blank wall in the neighborhood. In just a few short years, it has become the iconic image of Williamsburg. Walk away from the river one block and towards the stunning gold dome of the former Williamsburg Savings Bank building, and if you're lucky it will be open to the public for a market or other public event. On the opposite corner is the legendary German steakhouse Peter Luger's. It's been open since 1887 and is a temple of beef. There are lots of arguments about which steakhouse in New York is the best, but Luger's is still the standard by which all steakhouses are measured. Reservations are scarce and meals are expensive. But if you're interested in a classic steakhouse, this is the spot.<br />
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/6UqY8xmGIg/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A post shared by Real New York Tours (@realnewyorktours)</a> on <time datetime="2015-08-13T12:03:06+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Aug 13, 2015 at 5:03am PDT</time></div>
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Walk down Driggs Avenue and things will change very suddenly. After walking through some of the hippest areas of the city you will suddenly feel out of place for a different reason. South of Brooklyn's Broadway is one of the largest Hasidic Jewish neighborhoods in the world. Walk down to Division Avenue, take a left, and then a slight right onto Lee Avenue to join the main commercial street of South Williamsburg. All around will be men, women, and lots of children in traditional Jewish clothes. Jewish communities have been a part of New York City since it was New Amsterdam. But it was the Williamsburg Bridge that enabled families from the Lower East Side to escape the crowded conditions in Manhattan and move to Brooklyn. It was this first migration that included residents like Mel Brooks, Barry Manilow, and Jerry Stiller. But most of those early families have since moved out for bigger houses or warmer weather. Instead, the large Hasidic community in the neighborhood today are all descendants of a small group that fled Hungary at the end of World War II. The town of Satu Mare is today located in Romania but was part of Hungary at the time of the war. The large Jewish community there was mostly left alone by the Hungarian government until the end of the war when the Nazi's desperation led them to round up as many Jewish communities as possible. Few from Satu Mare escaped, but their Rebbe Joel Teitelbaum did escape and settled with only a few hundred followers in Williamsburg in 1946. Since then, the community has seen incredible growth. The sect, which calls itself Satmar in honor of their ancestral home, was a mere 4,500 residents in 1960. Today it numbers more than 50,000 in South Williamsburg. Just as in Hungary, the group shuns modernity and keeps traditional dress, their traditional language of Yiddish, and traditional religious and daily life. They have large families averaging six children so families and schools are a constant sight on the neighborhood streets which are typically bustling, unless it is the Sabbath or a holiday. They are a political force in the city as well and their large celebrations can attract governors and senators. If you want a taste of the neighborhood head to Gottlieb's deli on Roebling and Division where you can get a unique Hungarian take on the classic knish. This version is more like a potato-filled croissant. Or you can go with a true Jewish-New York hybrid and get the pastrami egg roll. Walk down Lee Avenue a few blocks and take a left on Hooper. Walk a few blocks and turn right under the elevated tracks on Broadway. A few more blocks and you'll reach the G train at Broadway and Union Ave. Hop on and take a Queens-bound G<br />
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<b>Dinner</b>: Get off the G train at Greenpoint Avenue and you'll find yourself in the heart of Brooklyn's northernmost neighborhood, Greenpoint. This is one of my favorite neighborhoods for the way it combines historic architecture, delicious food, old immigrant communities, new residents, amazing views, and a great community feel. Plus there's lots of nice places to eat. Greenpoint is culturally defined by a large Polish Catholic community and for a great taste of Poland walk towards the river on Greenpoint Ave to Karczma. The dining room is decked out like a Polish mountain lodge and the staff are all donning traditional clothes. But don't be fooled by the theatrical costumes, this is much more a local hangout than a tourist trap. The food is delicious and the crowd is as likely to speak Polish as English. Further towards the water is Paulie Gee's Pizzeria. It's hard for me to pick a "best pizza" in NYC but if you put a gun to my head, I think I'd pick Paulie Gee's. It's a newer place with dim lighting and a hip vibe. The pizzas are inventive and come with a huge array of topping choices. But under that hip veneer is a kitchen that knows how to make New York pizza to perfection. You will probably have an enormous wait to dine here, especially on a weekend, but it's pretty awesome pizza and worth the wait. Elsewhere in Greenpoint are hip bars and bistros like Anella that has a lovely back garden for dinner or the lovely corner restaurant Alameda for cocktails and small plates. One of my perennial favorites is Lobster Joint, which features a small bar area and a huge backyard picnic area to munch on oysters, lobster rolls, and shrimp. And at the very northern tip of the neighborhood is Glasserie, an acclaimed Mediterranean/Middle Eastern tapas restaurant in a former glassworks.<br />
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<b>Evening</b>: There are so many different things to do in the evening in these neighborhoods you could probably spend 30 nights just in North Brooklyn. There are, of course, bars and restaurants almost everywhere. But there are also some of the most unique nightlife spots in NYC. In Greenpoint, one of my favorites is the Brooklyn Night Bazaar. The great thing about this concert venue/market is that there is something for absolutely everyone here. If you're a fan of live music, there are quality concerts 5 nights a week at the bazaar. Four nights a week there are karaoke rooms, arcade games, tables tennis, and mini golf. Plus on Friday and Saturday nights there is a great local market with vendors selling homemade goods and vintage finds. It's a great combo of fun and the fun goes until 2 AM.<br />
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A little further south in Williamsburg is the heaving nightlife hub around the Brooklyn Brewery. If you are a serious nightclub fan, next to the Wythe Hotel is Output. It's the first big-time dance club to find itself on this side of the river. I'm not at all a nightclub aficionado. But those who are say that the sound system is excellent and the DJs are world class. If nightclubs aren't your thing, you can go across the street to Brooklyn Bowl. This is a really fun venue that combines bowling and live music. The venue is in a former industrial space off the backside of the brewery. Inside is a lot of exposed brick and wood, 16 bowling lanes, and a stage right next to the lanes. It's a combo that seems dreamed up by a scriptwriter setting a sitcom in trendy Brooklyn. But it works great. The lanes are open from 6 PM every night though you'll have to pay a cover when there's a concert and still have to pay for a lane. If you're a fan of The Roots, famous hip hop outfit and Tonight Show band, their drummer and bandleader Questlove DJs every Thursday late.<br />
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Still further south in Williamsburg, on Metropolitan Avenue, is Nitehawk Cinema. This independent movie house is unique for successfully lobbying the state government in Albany to allow alcohol sales in cinemas. So now you can order food or a cocktail from your seat and have it delivered. A block north is the Bavarian-style beer hall Radegast. Not only do they serve the best pretzel in the city, but there is live music every night of the week in their large hall. <br />
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There are an abundance of live music spaces all over these neighborhoods. The two marquee spaces of the neighborhood are both on Williamsburg's former meatpacking row, North 6th Street. Music Hall of Williamsburg is a small concert space that can hold about 500 in the audience. But it's owned by the heavyweight NYC promoters Bowery Presents so it draws a lot of up-and-coming talent from rock, pop, and dance music. At the end of the block is the National Sawdust, named for the former sawdust plant in which it's housed. The venue opened in 2015 and is set up as a kind of chamber hall for contemporary classical music. That description probably doesn't do it justice, but on any given night you might see piano sonatas, latin jazz fused with European folk, experimental Texas blues, and much of it brand new. It will be a little older a crowd than Music Hall but the music is no less edgy. Then there are the numerous small venues and bars hosting live music. St. Mazie's Bar hosts lots of old fashioned jazz bands in the swing and jug band vein. St. Vitus' in Greenpoint is the city's best heavy metal venue. Shea Stadium isn't the former Mets home but is now the name of a small, high energy, venue in Bushwick. Bossa Nova Civic Club is a dance bar without the pretension of Manhattan's megaclubs, And if you want to really have a wild night, you can head to Bushwick to House of Yes for a night of mostly naked bodies, cabaret, dancing, aerial artistry, costumes, and anything else the organizers can dream up for a not quite sex party. All this really is just a start so whether you come with a plan or just wander the streets and see where the music takes you you'll have an evening to remember.
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02913900331338800605noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8406436286979342761.post-56302540794435184232016-03-14T17:15:00.000-04:002017-04-06T20:14:39.798-04:0030 Days in NYC (Day 10) - Day Trip to Philadelphia <br />
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If one were really taking a month long trip to New York City, there might be a moment or two when the crazy big city would start to grate a little. Ask any of us who live here how crazy the city can make you sometimes. So I figure it would be a good idea to get out of NYC for a few days out of the month. Besides, there are lots of other great things to see a short distance away. For many of the visitors to New York, especially from abroad, NYC is combined with a trip to Washington D.C. or up to New England and Boston. But these are really separate trips from NYC entirely. I have had clients who try to do Washington in a day trip, but the train journey is more than three hours each way. Even if you flew from Laguardia to National there are still hours spent in the airport. It seems crazy to me to spend 6 hours a day traveling and 6-8 hours at your destination. Plus it makes for a very tiring day. But there is another wonderful and historic city much closer to New York than Boston or Washington. It's the city of brotherly love: Philadelphia.<br />
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I like Philadelphia a great deal. It's not as glamorous or ritzy as Boston, New York, or Washington but in many ways it's more charming. There are the famous sights where America's revolution and government began of course, and all through the city are historic streets and neighborhoods. There are wonderful markets and foods, great art and architecture, but also a great vibe and soul. It's a city just that defined the sound of disco and 70s soul. There's a lot to see, hear, and taste on a trip to Philly. And best of all, it's only a 90 minute train ride from Manhattan. So head over to Penn Station, and get aboard the soul train.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">American Street<br />
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<b>Day 10</b> - Philadelphia day trip<br />
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<b>Morning</b> - You'll start the day in NYC by going to Penn Station to catch an Amtrak train. It's the simplest and most direct way to reach Philly. There are two classes of train, regular and Acela high speed. Unlike other countries, America's high speed rail isn't really very fast. The standard train takes 90 minutes and the Acela takes 70 minutes. But saving those 20 minutes will cost almost double the regular ticket. So it doesn't seem worth it to me. The tickets often cost about $100 round trip but there are cheaper options. Buses run regularly between the two cities and are closer to $30 round trip but they take a little over two hours, and can be slowed by traffic. If you were thinking of staying the night or are on an extremely tight budget the bus makes sense. But I think for a day trip taking the train--or even splurging for the Acela--makes the most sense.<br />
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When you arrive by train to Philadelphia, you will disembark in the beautiful 30th Street Station. The 1933 station is a grand art deco hall. It gives you a small sense of what New York's Penn Station must have felt like before being torn down in the 60s and replaced with the current soulless underground corridors. 30th Street Station is a nice photo spot and a fitting entry to such a splendid city. Philadelphia is situated on the west bank of the wide Delaware River. But the city is split through on the west side by the smaller Schuykill (pronounced SKOO-gill) River making Philly a kind of long peninsula between two rivers. 30th Street Station sits right on the west bank of the Schuykill and as you exit you can walk right across the river and walk down the stairs on the other side to the Schuykill River trail. This brand new waterfront walkway goes along and even over the river and leads to Fairmount Park. It's a little less than a mile to reach the Fairmount Water Works. The lovely buildings are an event hall today but they once pumped Schuykill River water to the top of the hill behind you to be fed into the city. The buildings and dam are almost two hundred years old and provide a lovely view of one of Philly's most picturesque landmarks: Boathouse Row. The 15 boathouses were built for rowing clubs and college teams to take advantage of the calm waters above the dam. Each is a unique style and reminiscent of quaint European villages. Next, climb the hill behind you and you'll be on the backside of the Philadelphia Museum of Art. Work your way to the front of the museum for one of the iconic sights of Philadelphia. The museums steps lead away in a wide, long, formal staircase and onto the long boulevard of Ben Franklin Parkway which stretches towards the city's skyline. Of course, the steps are immediately recognizable from the classic Philly film <i>Rocky</i>. The film is the quintessential underdog story and Philadelphians rallied around it when the film was released during the tough economic downturn of the 1970s. The film's training montage finishes with Rocky bounding up the museum steps and you'll see plenty of tourists recreating his famous run.<br />
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It's at this point that I would leave the Museum area since I would prefer to spend time in the historic old city, but if you're not as much of a history buff you can spend time at the art museum or the nearby Rodin Museum or Barnes Foundation Museum. You could even walk down to Fairmount Ave from the Art Museum and walk 10 minutes to the fascinating and spooky Eastern State Penitentiary.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Eastern State Penitentiary</td></tr>
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The turreted, castle-like walls of the prison are a strange sight in an otherwise ordinary neighborhood. It's hard to imagine in 1821 that this was considered a model prison, and that solitary confinement was a reformed rehabilitative technique. Even harder to imagine is that the prison held convicts until 1971. The prison has been partially restored, including showing Al Capone's old cell, but its the unrestored halls that are the most intriguing. The cold, crumbling halls evoke the sadness and tedium of a life spent inside. And if you're around near Halloween, you can test your courage at "Terror behind the walls," a haunted house built inside the prison which has been called the scariest haunted house in the world. It's a unique piece of history that makes a great stop if you aren't as interested in the colonial sights in the old city. But it takes at least an hour to see the prison so make sure to leave enough time for other things. At this point, hop in a taxi or the 33 bus on 19th street and head towards City Hall. <br />
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Unlike New York's humble 1811 City Hall, you can't miss Philly's government hub. The building sits in the middle of the intersection of Philly's largest streets: Broad Street going North to South and Market Street going East to West. City Hall is probably America's most under appreciated skyscraper. It was built in 1901 and was the world's tallest building when it was completed. To this day it remains the only skyscraper outside Chicago or New York to ever be the country's tallest. But what I find coolest about City Hall is that before it was built, all of the buildings that had ever been the world's tallest had been churches. Philadelphia's City Hall was the first ever building to rise above the spires of Europe's tallest cathedrals. And before you mention the Eiffel Tower, it's a towering structure but not a building so it doesn't quite count.<br />
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As you walk around City Hall, start heading East on Market Street. The first building on your right is Philadelphia's flagship Macy's store. It wasn't always Macy's, which is a NYC-based store. This was Philly's answer to Chicago and New York's grand department stores. It was Wanamaker's Department Store. Wanamaker's was the tastemaker of Philly in the era of grand department stores, but like so many local brands, it has been subsumed by Macy's. It's a fine example of a grand 20th century department store, but there's a musical surprise inside. The former Wanamaker's is home to the world's largest functioning pipe organ. It's a bit incongruous to have such an incredible instrument in a store and not a church or a theater. The massive organ has more than 28,000 pipes. That's more than double the size of New York City's largest organ at St. Bart's Church. And not only is it playable, but it is played everyday, except Sundays, at Noon. And if you miss the Noon concert there is another recital at either 5:30 or 7:30. The open atrium where the organ is located makes for a wonderful listening gallery and you can also go right up to the console and watch the organist play. Even if you're not a classical music fan, this is a once-in-a-lifetime experience.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Wanamaker Organ, the world's largest.</td></tr>
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<b>Lunch</b> - Walk back out on to Market Street and take a right. At the next block, take a left on 12th Street and walk up a block and you'll be at the Reading Terminal Marketplace. For much of early Philadelphia's history, markets had been located on the aptly named Market Street stretching away from the Delaware River for nearly a mile. By the 1850s the street had become so choked that a central market was proposed. The first central market opened on the current site shortly thereafter, but it was the railroads that really made the market a city icon. The market is located inside the old Reading Terminal Depot. Built in 1893, the new station featured trains from towns, villages, and farms from all over Pennsylvania arriving at the new station and train shed on the second floor, and the market took over the street level space. Just like in New York, the old city life was threatened by cars and suburbanization. By the 70s the Reading RR was bankrupt and the market was suffering. The state took over the operation of the trains in the 80s but trains would no longer run into the station itself. A project was completed to connect the old Reading RR tracks to the old Pennsylvania RR stations under the city 4 blocks west and to 30th Street station. This project meant the trains would now come in below ground. Happily, the market was supported and has stayed open and has now been continually operating since 1859.<br />
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Today, it's a bustling spot, especially at lunch. Inside are over eighty merchants. Some merchants are selling groceries like meat, fish, or produce. Others make sandwiches or other prepared foods. There are longtime vendors, including some Pennsylvania Dutch who come in every day but Sunday and Monday. The oldest vendor in the marketplace is Bassett's Ice Cream which has operated in the market ever since the building opened. And there are new places opening all the time. It's a wonderful place to explore and a first-time visitor will likely be overwhelmed. So the question is, where to eat? The Pennsylvania Dutch--you may know them as Amish--spots are all great for a bit of traditional PA/German offerings. The Dutch Eating Place is a breakfast spot where local pork specialty scrapple is fried up with eggs. Bieler's doughnuts are one of the most famous offerings in the market. And if you've ever had a pretzel on the streets of NYC you owe it to yourself to have it from a city that really knows pretzels by heading to Miller's Twists. Diener's is one of the most popular spots in the market with big lines for their rotisserie chicken wings. In addition to the Amish offerings, Philly's Italian fare is on display. You can get a cannoli at Termini Brothers, an Italian hoagie--Philly's word for a what New Yorkers call a hero--at Carmen's. They also carry the famous Philly Chessesteak, which Philadelphians tend to downplay but is still a delicious sandwich. DiNic's is great for the alternative to cheesesteak, the roast pork sandwich. It's not just German or Italian either. Beck's does wonderful cajun food, Meltkraft does great grilled cheese sandwiches, and Molly Molloy's makes a great pot pie. There's lots more to choose from so take time to explore and try lots of different things. Just try not to spend the whole day.<br />
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<b>Afternoon -</b> Now it's time to head east and explore the rich American history preserved on the streets of old Philadelphia. The closer you get to the Delaware River on the east side of the city, the older a part of town you are in. The walk down to 2nd Street is about a mile, which is nice after a good lunch. There is also the option to walk down to 11th Street and Market and hop aboard The Market-Frankford subway line. The fare is $2.25 cash and you can take a train towards Frankford three stops to 2nd Street. Once you're at 2nd and Market, head north on 2nd four blocks and you'll reach Elfreth's Alley. This tiny street makes the bold claim to be the longest continually inhabited street in the country. I have no idea if that claim is accurate, but the houses are typical of the type that tradesmen would have lived in during the 18th century. Whether it's really the oldest anything, it's a great look at everyday life in Philly during the British Colonial Era. And it is quite unique that these are still private homes today.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elfreth's Alley</td></tr>
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Double back one block to Arch Street and take a right on Arch Street. This will take you past the Betsy Ross House, The Arch Street Friends--or Quaker--Meeting House, the U.S. Mint, and the Christ Church Cemetery where Ben Franklin is buried. All these are great sights that could be visited on a longer stay in Philly. But with just a day to spare, the best option is to head straight to Independence Hall.<br />
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Independence Hall is the most important historic sight in the United States. Not only was it the place where the leaders of the colonies declared the beginning of a new republic, but it was also the meeting hall for the Constitutional Convention, where the United States' Constitution was drafted. It is Philadelphia's most famous and popular sight and you can only go inside on a tour. You can, of course, see the building from outside any time. You can also go through the visitors center and see the Liberty Bell without a ticket. But the Liberty Bell is really just a minor part of the story of American independence and isn't the real highlight. If you appreciate American history in even the most basic way, you want to go inside Independence Hall. Tours run frequently throughout the day and are free. Tickets are given out in advance or on the same day. If you are just coming to Philly for a day trip it's worth reserving the tour in advance. Be aware that there is a $1.50 handling fee for advanced reservations. And if it's January or February there are no reservations required at all. The tour is quick but exciting. For a fan of history, particularly American history, it's awe-inspiring to be standing in the room where Thomas Jefferson introduced the Declaration of Independence and then to go across the hall and stand where Alexander Hamilton and James Madison led the negotiations for the Constitution. If you do reserve in advance, you should be at the visitor center to pick up your tickets at least 45 minutes before the tour time. And if you don't have tickets it's still worth walking up to see if any are available. If it's not a weekend or a holiday there very well could be walk up tickets available.<br />
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Independence Hall Park contains more than just Independence Hall and there are other buildings that might interest you. The American Philosophical Society building is just to the left of Independence Hall and was founded by Ben Franklin and his friends as a society for pursuing their love of art and science. Today the museum in the building rotates through different exhibits from their collection that highlight the scientific advancement of the founders and other figures in American history. Further along Chestnut Street is the portrait gallery inside the 2nd National Bank of the United States. On Chestnut between 4th and 3rd are the buildings of the Carpenter's Guild of Philadelphia. This organization was founded in 1724 as an alliance of builders, engineers, and tradesmen. They began construction of a meeting hall in 1770 which would be finished in 1774. The hall proved so attractive and pleasant a meeting room that it was used by the First Continental Congress in 1774 to draw up a list of grievances against the Crown. Carpenter's Hall was used for many other meetings and was so popular that the guild built an adjacent hall in 1791 now called the New Hall, which was promptly used by the War Department and Secretary Knox for offices. Today you can visit both halls for displays of military history and other relics from the Carpenter's Guild. This is one of my favorite quiet historical spots, though--full disclosure--the fact that one of my long-ago ancestors was a member probably has something to do with it.<br />
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After finishing up and Independence Park, walk south across Walnut Street and enter the neighborhood of Society Hill. This is one of the best collection of 18th and 19th Century homes in the country and it retains the air of a graceful merchant community. This area was the subject of one of the first urban renewal and preservation projects of the 20th century in the country. The neighborhood had declined into slum-like conditions and the city and state took over old homes and resold them to owners willing to restore them to historic splendor. But not everything was saved and there are odd mid-century townhouses and towers in the neighborhood too. But besides the odd bits of the 1960s, the neighborhood is one of the most charming in Philly. Plus it has some of my favorite laneway streets in the city, like the aptly named American Street. If there's time left before dinner, you can walk west through the Washington Square West neighborhood. The Pennsylvania Hospital on Pine Street is one of the grandest looking buildings in the country and is almost reminiscent of a European palace. There's also more quaint laneways between Spruce and Locust Streets, including my vote for most charming streets in Philly, Quince and Jessup Streets.<br />
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<b>Dinner - </b>Head west to Rittenhouse Square, one of the elegant green spaces scattered throughout Philly to sample some of the best dining in the city. The Rittenhouse Square neighborhood is one of Philadelphia's dining, shopping, and nightlife hubs. There's tons of options here but the neighborhood is dominated by the most famous chef to ever come out of Philadelphia, Stephen Starr. Starr had been in nightlife and food in Philly for years when he opened Buddakan in 1998. The hugely successful restaurant/lounge catapulted him to fame, especially for theatrical and exciting dining spaces. But the food proved a huge draw too and now Starr's group owns around 20 restaurants in Philly, not to mention half a dozen in Manhattan. Each restaurant is unique in style and food, and all of them are packed so try to make reservations beforehand. Along the square itself is Parc, his French brasserie, and Barclay Prime, a high end steakhouse. Along Walnut Street's main shopping drag are Alma de Cuba for latin fusion and Butcher and Singer for old school steaks and chops. But the best bet for matching the historic vibe of the city is The Dandelion on Sansom and 18th Street. The space recreates an elegant British pub inside of two stunning historic townhouses. The old fashioned Philly architecture matches the look of the restaurant perfectly. And while it may have been 240 years since the city was British, Philly's history seems to be honored in a very cool way in this modern but old fashioned gastropub. The fish and chips are the standout dish here. There are loads of other great places around the neighborhood. A few blocks west on Walnut is Vernick Food & Drink, serving oven-roasted contemporary dishes that wow everyone in the city. It's hard to get a table but you can understand why when American classics taste this good. Tequilas on Locust and 16th is a very hip Mexican eatery with an amazing tequila and mezcal selection. Their mole sauce is particularly delicious. And if all these more upscale places don't suit you, just head over to Good Dog Bar for some burgers and fries. After dinner, it's probably time to head back, so walk or taxi back to 30th Street station for the ride home to NYC.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02913900331338800605noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8406436286979342761.post-49500438778191031392016-01-12T10:19:00.000-05:002016-01-12T10:39:54.804-05:00The Best Month to Visit NYC<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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What's the best time to come visit New York? It's a question fraught with variables. What are the crowds like? What is the traffic like? What's the weather like? And while any guidebook can provide some basics about average temperature, precipitation, and price, what you really need is an in-depth idea of the experience of visiting at a certain time. And each visitor is looking for something different. Some are travelling on a budget and so they need the best deals. Some want to experience the city at its most vibrant and energetic. Some want to see the big sights but don't want to wait in long lines. And some just hate the biting cold of winter of the harsh heat of summer.So we're going to take this month-by-month and give you an idea of what NYC is all about at different times of year. Best of all, there isn't really a bad time of year to visit. Every month has its pros and cons and there is something special about any time of year in New York. And first up is the first calendar month, is the least popular month to visit.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">January</span></b></div>
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Falling right after the holidays, January is cold and dark and any potential visitors are poor, fat, and hungover. It's just psychologically a time when prudence and restraint wins out over spending money traveling. Plus it really is cold. But I actually think it's one of the better times of year to visit New York, especially because...<br />
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<b>Cost</b> - DEALS! DEALS! DEALS! January is absolutely the best time of year to save money on a trip to New York. Hotel rates are discounted 40% from the peak prices. Shops are shelling out post-holiday sales. NYC promotes deals for dinner and theater. Restaurant Week lasts most of January and offers prix-fixe dinners and lunches at hundreds of restaurants. Broadway Week runs most of the month as well and offers 2 for 1 tickets to lots of shows. This especially good for long running shows. There aren't as many shows on because slow ticket sales give theaters a chance to change over to new sets. But most of the long run shows offer some great deals. I would say you can reasonably expect a January visit to cost almost a third less than warmer months.<br />
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<b>Weather</b> - I should say right away that New York's weather is not predictable. Whatever time you visit could conceivably have a 50 degree Fahrenheit range of possible temperatures. And precipitation totals are similar almost every month, but it's impossible to guess which days exactly will have rain or snow. Precipitation is just going to be a roll of the dice whenever you come. As for January, it's cold. Winter temperatures are usually around 37F (3C) in the afternoon and more like 25F (-4C) at night. A cold snap can drop daytime temps down to the teens or even single digits F. My record for a tour was two years ago when the start of the tour registered 2F (-17C). And that day featured the typical arctic wind out of the northwest. So you will need to be prepared. Hats, scarves, jackets, gloves, and long underwear should all be on the packing list. For me, the most important winter gear is a good pair of waterproof boots. Thin thermal socks are great too--thick socks make my feet sweat which just chills them more. And you should make sure they are waterproof because snow, rain, ice, and slush is a definite possibility. New York gets about 30 inches of snow a year, mostly falling in January and February. Even if it doesn't snow while you're here, there may be slushy curbs and sidewalks left over from previous snows. But it's not always freezing cold. There are warm spells too. Those can actually be worse if they bring cold rain with them, which I always find harder to deal with than snow. But there can also be some lovely sunny days with temperatures in the 40s or 50s. I even remember one January day that got up to 70F (21C)! The biggest problem with winter weather isn't getting around or enjoying yourself though. It's flight delays. New York actually runs very well in the snow. Subway and taxis are running, shops and restaurants are open even in bad snowstorms. But our perpetually delayed airports get hammered in bad snow or ice. It's the biggest risk for a winter visit that you might not get here at all. Try to give yourself some leeway on travel days and times, and make the investment in trip insurance for your flight.<br />
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<b>Crowds</b> - January is easily the least crowded month to visit New York. There are virtually no lines for attractions like the Statue of Liberty or Empire State Building. Restaurants have tables available all the time, especially on weekdays. Hot selling Broadway seats suddenly become available. You can have galleries at the Met or MoMA to yourself. Traffic is light. Subways are a little less crowded. The crowds in Midtown and on subways really can be stifling so this is a great time of year if you hate dealing with crowds or waiting in lines. There are also very few global school holidays in January so visitor numbers are pushed even further down.<br />
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<b>Atmosphere & Events</b> - The lack of crowds is so stark at this time of year, that it can almost be a negative thing. Part of the fun of NYC is seeing the crowded streets. Not only that, public spaces where New Yorkers hang out are stark and empty due to the cold. Washington Square doesn't have its normal vibrant energy. There's no performers on the streets or in the parks. New York is never a ghost town--although 5 AM on a January Sunday comes close--but everyone huddling indoors does diminish some of the fun of walking the streets and people watching that the rest of the year brings. There are also no major events happening in January to draw a big crowd. The sun goes down very early in January, making the evening rush hour a gloomy affair. And the city turns very dull and grey without the summer greenery. It's not the most beautiful time of year, except for the magic of falling snow. Snowfall's trance can be short lived though as it turns to muddy slush within hours on our streets. But when it's coming down and everything is lightly covered in white the city is magical. The parks turn into arctic playlands with kids sledding and adults playing and even skiing along the snowy paths. The stoops and brownstones of the side streets look festive and bright. Even the lights of Midtown look great behind a wall of snowflakes. You'll be the star of your instagram feed if you get some fresh snow during your visit.<br />
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<b>Verdict</b> - It's a great time of year for budget travelers or a more sightseeing oriented trip. It's less good for those wanting the experience of the city at its most energetic or exciting. Hope for snow, but not on the days you fly. I would actually come at the end of January, when the chance of snow is highest and there's no leftover New Year's crowds.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>February</b></span></div>
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<b style="font-size: x-large;"> </b>It's pretty much just like January, but with a little more stuff going on, and a little more sunlight. But it's still the dead of winter. So pack accordingly.</div>
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<b>Cost</b> - There's the same savings on hotels as in January, Close to 40% off peak prices. Broadway Week still runs into the first week of February, as does Restaurant Week. So the deals are slightly better in January, but the hotel costs are still low. Prices can be slightly higher in Mid-February however due to school holidays and the Spring Fashion week around the second weekend of February.</div>
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<b>Weather</b> - It's pretty much identical to January. The chance of snow is a little higher earlier in the month, but it'll be cold the whole time. It does start warming up a teensy bit at the end of the month, with average high temps creeping up to 42F (6C). But don't expect it to suddenly feel like Florida. </div>
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<b>Crowds</b> - It's still really quiet in February. There won't be any big lines to get into attractions or museums. There might be a slight uptick the second week of February due to fashion week and school holidays, but it's not a popular enough travel time to cause any big crowds.</div>
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<b>Atmosphere & Events</b> - Fashion Week is always fun in the middle of winter. If you're anywhere near the runway shows, stop by and watch fashionistas in high heels walk through slush puddles. Chinese New Year takes place early in the month and has events over the course of the whole week. It usually starts with a firecracker display, followed by parades of dragons and drums. And if you're a fan of the classic film "Best in Show" you can head to Madison Square Garden for the Westminster Kennel Club dog show. It's the Garden's oldest event dating all the way back to the 1870s. Even if you have no idea how the dogs are being judged, it's still a lot of fun to go and watch them trot around the Garden floor. They're all so cute! But on the whole, February is another quiet month with most everyone still huddled inside. The city is still missing the vibrancy that warmer weather brings.</div>
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<b>Verdict</b> - I think if I was coming in the winter, I would just come in January. There's better deals to be had in January and you're not getting a better experience by coming in February. On the flip side, if you're tied to the school calendar and do visit during the mid-February school break there will be some fun events going on. </div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>March</b></span><br />
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<b> </b>Spring Break! Well, kind of. March is definitely a school break for kids all over the U.S. and abroad. But in New York, spring's arrival can be difficult to predict. Mid-March can feel like the time winter gives up, but sometimes old man winter can hang on until April. But even if the weather doesn't pick up, the crowds do.</div>
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<b>Cost</b> - Hotels won't be as cheap as in mid-winter, but they will still be relatively inexpensive. The prices are still about 25% less than peak periods, though the prices do rise a bit as you approach the end of the month. Flights also stay close to their winter lows until the end of the month. What can get confusing is the arrival of Easter, which usually falls in April but can also occur on the last weekend of March. If this happens, as it will in 2016, rates go way up for flights and hotels that weekend since it is one of the busiest weekends of the year as almost all European, South American, and some American and Australian families have school break. In fact, an early Easter means even more American students will have that week off since their usual March break will be taken that week rather than earlier. But even with students and families arriving in early March, prices stay low until Easter.</div>
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<b>Weather</b> - In like a lion, out like a lamb is the old saying about March, and it's generally true. Early March still has overnight temps below freezing and days in the 40s, but by the end of the month the average day time temp has climbed up to 53F (11C). Often that middle week in March can feel like the first day when big puffy coats can be put away. Plus it's staying lighter later, and the start of Daylight Saving Time in mid-March pushes sunset back an extra hour. In a mild winter, March is often lovely. But in a hard winter, March sucks. We have had recent winters where snow and cold persisted into April. And while the temperatures may warm slightly, that often just means a cold rain or melting snowpack. Snowy days are great, and days when the accumulated snow are melting are kinda crummy. Slush and mud is persistent on those melt days and it can make walking around a soggy proposition. Even on warm days, there's no signs of spring yet. Flowers, grass, and trees don't actually start blooming until April, so the parks and streets are still drab and grey, except instead of snow it's more likely to rain. Overall, it's my least favorite month of weather.</div>
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<b>Crowds</b> - March can actually bring big crowds, especially on major school holidays. So you will likely run into lots of families, especially at major attractions. The lines for things like Empire State Building or Statue of Liberty can run pretty long. It's also a popular time for large groups of students to travel together. High school bands, choirs, or sports teams will travel in huge groups, sometimes hundreds of kids and it can bog down big attractions as they move through. But outside the major sights, it's not a busy time of year for business or local travel so streets and restaurants aren't too busy. March joins the other winter months as one of the best months for Manhattan traffic. </div>
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<b>Atmosphere & Events</b> - March marks the beginning of months of major parades in New York with the venerable St. Patrick's Day parade on March 17th. It's a great event with hundreds of groups of pipes and drums marching up 5th Avenue. Plus it's just fun to see people with bagpipes and cable knit sweaters on the subway. The parade falls just at that moment where winter either gives way to lovely weather or hangs on for a couple more weeks. We have had parades in beautiful warm sunshine and parades with a few inches of snow. The Big East college basketball tournament plays in the second week of March at Madison Square Garden. The conference has been rearranged and its not as big as it once was, but it still draws fans from different schools all over the northeast for the four day tournament. The atmosphere in the city just depends on the warm weather. That first warm day of spring always is a great one as New Yorkers rush to the parks and open spaces to enjoy the warm sunshine. There's just no telling if that happens in March or not. </div>
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<b>Verdict</b> - March is actually my least favorite month to visit. The weather is usually still crummy, everything's a little muddy, the city isn't really beautiful looking in a wintry or spring way. There are big crowds at a lot of attractions, but the city itself isn't too lively yet. The first week of March is still cheap and uncrowded, but the rest of the month is, for my money, the worst time to visit.</div>
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/2D6s89NCXN/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A photo posted by Shawn (@nytourguy)</a> on <time datetime="2015-04-29T13:52:58+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Apr 29, 2015 at 6:52am PDT</time></div>
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Ah, spring! The warm weather finally arrives! And while it is said the April showers bring May flowers, the truth is that April isn't rainier than any other month. In fact, May averages slightly more rain. The flowers are truly in bloom and New York shakes off the March blues. But the prices are starting to go up.</div>
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<b>Costs</b> - Hotel prices have crept up, but they're still not at peak prices yet. Rooms are still 15-20% below peak prices. Though you can expect to pay more on Easter week. Flights are also still reasonable as long as its not around Easter. There's not going to be too many sweet deals on offer in town, but it's still a fairly moderately priced month to visit.</div>
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<b>Weather</b> - No more snow! The last frost of the year is usually around late April, so the fountains around town are turned on around the end of the month. The flowers are starting to bloom everywhere. There are tulips, daffodils, azaleas are in bloom in parks and streets everywhere. The flowering trees are in even more beautiful with the white pear trees, pink cherry blossoms, and the amazing redbuds all starting to bloom. But don't think it's all short sleeve days. It's still jacket weather with temps still dropping below freezing on some early April nights. But the days warm up as the month goes on and by the end of the month days are averaging 63F (17C). It's a great month for layers and light coats, which is always fashionable. Mild days also mean you won't be a sweaty mess at the end of the day, so there's less running back to the hotel to change or shower. You can stay outside all day and all night. Just don't forget the rain gear. You'll need boots and coats if a rainy day hits during your visit. </div>
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<b>Crowds</b> - Easter week is one of the busiest of the whole year in New York. There are tons of travelers from all over the world who descend on New York. Schools in New York are out for the week of Passover, which sometimes matches up with Easter and sometimes doesn't. In 2016 it falls a month after Easter towards the end of April. So that means that this year on Easter most locals will still be in town, adding to the crowds on the streets. Lines for popular attractions are huge for Easter week. When NYC does have its April school break it has a mixed effect on the crowds. Some families leave town, but others stay and do things around town. If you can avoid Easter and Passover, April is not a terribly crowded time of year.</div>
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<b>Atmosphere & Events</b> - The nice weather means New York finally starts to shed its winter coats and enjoy the city. People will take the chance to eat outside at sidewalk cafes or a quick lunch in the parks or streets. Nightlife picks up as a night on the town no longer requires a parka and long underwear. Street musicians appear. The color starts to return to the streets. The Callory Pear trees are particularly awesome as they can line whole blocks with beautiful white blossoms for weeks. There's a lot going on around town as well. The Tribeca Film Festival takes place over a two week span in mid-April, so the restaurants and bars downtown are bustling with the film industry. The screenings cost more than a typical multiplex, but it's a cool opportunity for a unique movie experience. One of the most popular festivals of the year is the Japanese Cherry Blossom Festival at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden. It takes place at the end of April and celebrates Japanese culture and it highlights the BBG's awesome cherry trees. But even if you can't make it to the festival, it's a beautiful time of year to be in New York.</div>
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<b>Verdict</b> - April is one of my favorite times of year, as long as you avoid Easter weekend if at all possible. The costs aren't too expensive, the crowds aren't too bad, the city is lively, and the scenery is beautiful. The exact best week will always be a little different, but the end of April is a wonderful time to come to New York</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>May</b></span><br />
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/2GadViNCck/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A photo posted by Shawn (@nytourguy)</a> on <time datetime="2015-04-30T13:08:57+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Apr 30, 2015 at 6:08am PDT</time></div>
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New York has officially hit its stride for the year in May. There's all kinds of things going on. The weather is beautiful, when its not raining. And school is still in session which keeps away huge crowds. And the city is in full bloom and turning green. But all these advantages have a price.</div>
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<b>Cost</b> - May is one of the more expensive hotel months, though its still not as bad as in the fall. It's still a little off of peak prices but only by about 10%. Flights are still inexpensive though, at least at the beginning of the month. But as you get closer to Memorial Day weekend, flight and hotel prices jump up. Even so, the prices aren't as high as some other times of year. It's not a bargain, but it's not super expensive.</div>
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<b>Weather</b> - In short, it's beautiful. Temps at the beginning of the month are around 65F (C) and by the end of the month have climbed to 73F (C). It's not quite summer yet so you still need to pack a light jacket or sweater. But there are lots of days perfect for jeans and a t-shirt. This is definitely a month to check the exact forecast before you pack. It's quite possible to have chilly nights all through the month. May is technically the rainiest month, but the odds of rain aren't really all that different than any other month. Pack some boots and coats but you'll most likely have sunny days during your visit. One thing to be ready for is the first heat wave of the season. It's quite possible, especially late in the month, to have temps rise to the high 80s or even low 90s. So bring some shorts and be prepared for a little extra heat.<br />
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<b>Crowds</b> - May is one of the busiest month for the city's infrastructure. Traffic begins to snarl more regularly as more locals are out socializing, business conferences are in session, and students and trade workers are in high gear. The subways, sidewalks, bars, and restaurants are all just a little busier. But all these people everywhere aren't necessarily tourists. The end of school arriving means more families at home preparing for exams and fewer travelling on holidays. Lines at the major attractions are only medium length. And then on the last weekend of May, the whole thing gets flipped round. On Memorial Day weekend, the whole city empties out quite a bit. Locals head to the beach or the mountains for a well deserved three day weekend. And in their place come a wave of tourists. Schools are out in many parts of America and Australia and the summer tourist crowds really begin. There will be huge lines and crowds at the Statue of Liberty, 9/11 Museum, Empire State Building, High Line and more that weekend. But many things are actually less crowded. It's one of the best weekends of the year for popular restaurant tables--assuming it's not somewhere like Ellen's Stardust that caters exclusively to tourists. Brunch and dinner reservations are much easier to come by. Traffic is very light, and subways are emptier. So it's a bad weekend for sightseeing but a great one for dining out.<br />
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<b>Atmosphere & Events</b> - New York feels great in May. The weather is usually warm but comfortable. There's musicians and performers everywhere. The people watching is excellent. I especially love that first truly warm day where everyone rushes to the park to play or just lay out and try to get rid of the winter paleness. Central Park is particularly resplendent in May. Azaleas, rhododendrons, magnolia trees, and even some roses are in full bloom. It's an awesome atmosphere throughout the city. There's no big blockbuster events going on in May but there are lots of fun little events happening. The 9th Avenue food festival celebrates the world of culinary options found in Hell's Kitchen. The Manhattan Cocktail Classic offers hundreds of specialty cocktails at bars all over the island. Outdoor performances like Shakespeare in the Park begin in late May. As do some of the summer morning concerts from Good Morning America and the Today Show. The biggest event of the month is the 5 Boro Bike Tour in early May. It crowds Central Park for the weekend but generally doesn't disrupt things too much. But the classic May event is Fleet Week, taking place on and around Memorial Day. A half dozen or so U.S. Navy ships dock in New York for some much needed R&R for the sailors. There are parades and tours of the ships available. But mostly its just the sight of uniformed sailors and marines in Times Square, at shows, and at bars of course, that is an important part of the annual rhythms of New York.<br />
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<b>Verdict</b> - Early May is one of the absolute best times to visit New York. The streets are crowded but the attractions aren't. The weather is warm but pleasant. There's things going on but nothing too disruptive. The streets are beautiful, the fashion is on point, and even the rainy days are a little warmer. But do be ready for big lines and crowds if you're doing any sightseeing on Memorial Day weekend.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>June</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/0mJ7JntCQg/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A photo posted by Shawn (@nytourguy)</a> on <time datetime="2015-03-24T03:57:22+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Mar 23, 2015 at 8:57pm PDT</time></b></span></div>
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It's the start of summer! Summer unofficially begins on Memorial Day, but NYC schools aren't actually let out until the end of June. So it's not quite summer yet. Nevertheless the temperature is rising and the many NYC summer events begin. But the locals haven't yet left for the summer so it's still bustling in the city. </div>
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<b>Cost</b> - It may seem counter-intuitive, but hotel prices actually begin to fall in the summer. It's because spring and fall are when the major media/fashion/business events are in town. So hotels are still full in the summer but the prices aren't as high. June hotel costs are actually closer to the rates in April when hotels are 15-20% below peak, especially later in June. However, the cost of flights jumps up. You could pay close to 30% more than in March or April for flights. So there's not much overall price difference from the spring. But if you can find a cheap flight or pay for the flight with miles or points, you can enjoy some hotel savings, especially later in the month.<br />
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<b>Weather</b> - Early June is a lovely summery time of year. The constant heat of midsummer hasn't quite arrived but the temperatures are still perfect for short sleeves. Some days might bring heat waves of tropical heat, or possibly some days of cool rain and clouds. But the averages daytime temperatures hover around the mid 70s farenheit (25 C). As the month goes on, summer heat becomes more persistent and unpleasant. June is also a relatively dry month. While there's not much difference in rain from month to month, June does average around a half inch less of rain than the spring months. June is the month when roses are in bloom in gardens, yards, and parks all over the city. June also sees the trees fully greened and the parks and streets take on a summer sheen of green leaves. It's certainly more pleasant than the hotter months of July and August and early June still can have the feel of a warm spring day.<br />
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<b>Crowds</b> - June is a transition month for crowds in NYC. Many schools around the world are still in session, including in NYC. That means most New Yorkers are still in town so roads and subways are still busy. However, many schools in the south and west of America are already on summer break by the first of June and the big crowds of summer tourists are beginning to be felt. But overall, the fact that only some families have the time off means that crowds aren't at their worst for major attractions. There will still be lines, but not the interminable ones of midsummer. Plus the fact that locals are still around gives the city some extra crowds but a lot of vibrancy as well. But by the last week of June everyone is on summer break and the weather has heated up and the tourist crowds have swelled.<br />
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<b>Atmosphere & Events</b> - The mix of tourists and locals in the first three weeks of June make for a great vibrant mixture on the streets. Public spaces like Washington Square and Union Square are humming with folks performing, sunbathing, walking their dogs, and soaking up the nice weather and atmosphere. Restaurants, bars, attractions, and parks are all busy but not overwhelmed. Some of the summer's free events kick into gear all over the city. NYC's under appreciated beaches open for summer swimming and the boardwalk at Coney Island's weird wonderful attractions jump back to life. Some of the city's major parades take places like the Puerto Rican Day parade and its 2 million attendees in mid-June and the uninhibited fun of the Gay Pride parade on the last Sunday of June. Coney Island's nautical-themed burlesque Mermaid Parade occurs in mid-June. The Museum Mile festival in early June features an evening of street entertainment as well as free admission to the great museums along 5th Avenue. June is also usually when the New York Philharmonic performs for free in Central Park. If you can avoid any major heat waves, June has one of the best atmospheres of any month on the calendar. Plus the wonderful late sunsets of the summer solstice give the late nights an even livelier feel than normal.<br />
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<b>Verdict</b> - Early June continues late May's great vibe and weather. There's not a lot of cost savings, but the first few weeks of June make for one of the best times of the year to visit. Late June cuts down on the locals in town, adds more visitors, and increases the heat so I like early weeks of the month the best.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>July</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/5KBLsptCXM/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A photo posted by Shawn (@nytourguy)</a> on <time datetime="2015-07-15T12:19:14+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Jul 15, 2015 at 5:19am PDT</time></b></span></div>
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<b> </b>Hot town, summer in the city. Back of my neck gettin' dirty and gritty. The Lovin' Spoonful classic "Summer in the City" seems like the perfect description of a stifling summer heat wave in New York. I admit to not dealing with well with the heat. It seems like I have to buy a whole new wardrobe of shirts after a summer of sweating through them. But at least there's all kinds of things going on to keep busy.</div>
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<b>Cost</b> - Surprisingly, midsummer is not the most expensive time for a visit to New York, even though tourism is at its peak. Hotels are still full, but since family travelers increase and business travelers decrease in these months the rates drop a little bit. Rates actually drop back to where they were in March or April, about a 20% cut from peak weeks. Flights are at their most expensive however. Flights on major holidays are the most expensive but summer flights are still a little pricier than other times of year. On the other hand, there are a ton of free events in summer and even a midsummer version of restaurant week starting in late July. So other than the airfare, its a very reasonable time to visit.</div>
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<b>Weather</b> - Get ready to sweat! New York's summers are actually not always steaming hot, but you can be sure at some point every July the mercury will climb to uncomfortable temperatures. On a nice July day cloud cover or dry air can make for a pleasant 80 degree (27 C) day. But during a heat wave--which can last just a few days or sometimes weeks--the temperature shoots up to the 90s and can even hit 100 degrees (38 C). Any trip to NYC is going to involve walking around, and the summer heat makes this a lot harder to endure. You'll have to factor in time back at the hotel after a day on the town for showering and freshening up before heading back out in the evening. July also is a somewhat rainier month but this isn't as bad as it sounds. Summer rain in New York tends to be the tropical variety where a sunny humid day is capped off by a brief afternoon or evening thunderstorm. It's pretty rare for a summer day to be a total washout. Besides, summer storms can be exciting and refreshing. </div>
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<b>Crowds</b> - July marks the peak period for summer tourist crowds. All American schools are out, as are Canadian, European, and Australian schools. Expect big waits for bus tours and attractions and bigger crowds in museums and busy tourist spots like Chelsea Market and the High Line. Tickets to big Broadway shows will be hardest to get at this time of year. The lines for discount tickets at TKTS are at their longest. Popular eateries with visitors like Carmine's or Katz's get really crowded, especially on weekends. It's a good time of year to start your days early. The early morning hours are bright but cool and the big crowds don't appear until closer to 10 AM. But there is a counterpoint to the crowds. It's the time of year when NYC residents take their weekends or even whole weeks outside the city. Every Friday a mass exodus of cars head to Manhattan's bridges and tunnels for weekends at the beach or in the country. So restaurant tables in Manhattan's neighborhoods are a little easier to get. Shops aren't quite as crazy as during the spring or fall and some even have sales going on. This pattern is amplified on the July 4th weekend. Neighborhood restaurants and bars can feel empty but the big attractions are at their most crowded. It's a great weekend for hitting trendy restaurants and bars. And the big holiday weekend means less traffic in the subways and on the streets. </div>
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<b>Events & Atmosphere</b> - There's so much going on! There's outdoor concerts and block parties all over the city all July long. Celebrate Brooklyn! brings great free shows to Prospect Park. River to River Festival features bands and stages in parks all over Manhattan. Central Park Summerstage is featuring free concerts multiple times a week. Good Morning America and Today are both featuring free morning concerts. Shakespeare in the Park tickets are hard to get sometimes but it's a great free night of theater in Central Park. Lincoln Center features free and ticketed outdoor performances. Street fairs run every weekend all over the city. And nowhere goes as big as NYC for Indepenedence Day fireworks. The location of the fireworks shifts from year to year but they're always somewhere along New York's waterways. It's a 25 minute barrage of ballistic beauty to celebrate America's birthday. Plus there's smaller fireworks throughout the city, not to mention the illegal backyard variety in every neighborhood. Coney Island once again let's its freak flag fly with the annual 4th of July hot dog eating contest, which is televised on ESPN these days. And speaking of sports the Mets or Yankees have a baseball game almost every day. The parades take a break for midsummer, but regardless if you can't find something to do in July you aren't looking very hard. The only downside is that with so many locals out of the city, it can sometimes feel like the city is only made up of tourists and for me that puts a little bit of a damper on the atmosphere. I think it's always nicer when NYC feels more lived-in and less like a theme park.</div>
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<b>Verdict</b> - The heat and the crowds are a lot to handle and it makes it a challenging time to visit, especially for a classic sightseeing trip. But it's not all bad because of all the activities and things happening around town. It wouldn't be my first choice of when to visit, but for a week spent hanging out and soaking up the restaurants, bars, and events July can work very well. And the small cost savings can make it appealing for a more budget-minded traveler. </div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>August</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/pZm2uMtCaa/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A photo posted by Shawn (@nytourguy)</a> on <time datetime="2014-06-18T21:14:43+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Jun 18, 2014 at 2:14pm PDT</time></b></span></div>
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The dog days of summer are in full force. The subway platforms are sweltering at almost 100 degrees and the streets aren't much better. Summer weather tends to persist right through to the end of August, as do school holidays. So everything stays pretty much the same as July.</div>
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<b>Cost </b>- Hotels remain somewhat cheaper and flights remain somewhat more expensive. Restaurant week runs into the third week of August. And free events continue throughout the city. Everything is pretty much the same as July.</div>
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<b>Weather</b> - More of the same from July. There are warm days punctuated by heat waves. Rain usually is brief and contained to the afternoon and evening. As you reach the last week of August the average high temperature does start to fall a bit to 78 degrees (25 C), but in my experience the days still feel hot sticky all the way to September. It's just that the odds of a massive heat wave are less at the end of the month than at the beginning. It's still shorts and t-shirt weather though.</div>
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<b>Crowds</b> - The crowds are slightly less overwhelming after the first week of August. Some schools in the US are back in session, but NYC schools remain out until early September. August is famously empty in wealthy Manhattan neighborhoods like the Upper East Side or Tribeca as those who can afford a beach or country house make good use of it. Subways too are a little less crowded without the students riding and the traffic on the streets eases a little bit. So just like July attractions remain very busy but perhaps a bit less so, and local hangouts are emptier and quieter. You'll still have to get up early to avoid waiting for an hour at the Empire State Building though.</div>
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<b>Events & Atmosphere</b> - Early August still features all the free events mentioned in July but they start to wind down by the middle of the month. The Dominican Day Parade is the big event of August as America's largest Dominican community celebrates their culture with millions of revelers along 5th Avenue. There's also Indian and Pakistani parades later in the month. A new event called Summer Streets takes place in August on Sunday mornings when Park Avenue and Lafayette Street are closed for 4 miles of car free jogging, biking, and entertainment until 1 PM. It's almost like the largest street fair of the year with water slides, food, and other diversions all along the route. Just like July, the tourist crowds are big but the local crowds are small, giving the city a bit of a them park feel at times. But if you can take the heat and spend more time away from the big attractions it can be a quiet and enjoyable time to visit. But you will miss out on some of the free summer events if you come the last week of August.</div>
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<b>Verdict</b> - If you can take the heat it makes for a nice time of year to enjoy some quieter times in the neighborhoods of New York. But the tourist sights are still overwhelmed by the summer crowds. So it's great for a budget-conscious trip where you amble through the city. It's less good for seeing the big attractions. And it's terrible in a heat wave.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>September</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/8TAeSGNCY1/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A photo posted by Shawn (@nytourguy)</a> on <time datetime="2015-10-01T13:40:22+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Oct 1, 2015 at 6:40am PDT</time></b></span></div>
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Fall is my favorite time of year in New York. The changing colors are beautiful, there's lots of things happening all over town, and I look good in cardigans. But the perfect weather and sweater-based fashion has a downside. It's the most expensive time of year to visit.<br />
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<b>Cost </b>- September begins the most expensive season for a visit to New York. Hotel costs are the biggest drivers. Major events bring big crowds but its also a busy time of year for conferences and business travel. The month starts with a major holiday weekend for Labor Day which means flights and hotels will all be expensive. The flights drop off a little the rest of the month, but not down the the prices in April or May. There won't be any discounts found for shows or shops either. I should say that traveling in other months like April and May will only drop about 15% or so off the price of a trip so it's not as if there's a huge difference--except for January and February. But if budget is a major factor in your trip planning, this probably isn't the time to visit.<br />
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<b>Weather</b> - There are lots of reasons September is such and expensive time to visit, but the weather is one of them. Labor Day Weekend at the beginning of the month typically marks the last warm summer weather. It's one last chance to get to Rockaway Beach, Coney Island, or the Jersey Shore. Most years, the difference is weather is noticeable just in the first week or two of September. Fall, like spring, is a variable time of year. Cold nights can begin as early as labor day, or summer heat can crop up until the end of the month. But a normal September day is lovely with daytime high around 75 degrees (24 C) and evenings only down to the mid 50s (13 C). It's perfect t-shirt days and jacket nights.<br />
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<b>Crowds</b> - Labor Day weekend feels a lot like Memorial Day. Locals have rushed out of town to make the best of summer's last weekend--and the ones who stay all seem to be on Coney Island. But it's a huge weekend for travelers, especially American ones to spend the weekend in NYC. So attractions and museums are packed to the brim. But as soon as Labor Day passes, the city changes. All of a sudden the huge hordes of other tourists diminish and more locals and business travelers return. It means that crowds for the big-ticket items are suddenly a lot easier to handle, especially during the week. But the roads and subways are a little busier than in the August doldrums, especially once NYC's schools go back in session after Labor Day. Tables at trendy restaurants and clubs are harder to get while Statue of Liberty access is easier.<br />
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<b>Events & Atmosphere</b> - While the free summer events wind down by Labor Day, the city doesn't really slow down a bit. The first major event of September is the U.S. Open Tennis tournament in Queens. It's a hugely popular event that runs for two weeks and draws hundreds of thousands of fans. Most stay in Manhattan hotels and take the subway to Flushing Meadows so the 7 train can be extra crowded. The early days are actually the busiest because there are matches constantly until the field gets whittled down. Right on the heels of the Open is Fall Fashion Week. Because of the nicer weather this is the much bigger of the two fashion week events. There's a lot more extraneous events around town and more partying at bars or restaurants. There are parades throughout the month. The biggest is the West Indian Day parade in Brooklyn on Labor Day, but the rest of the month are smaller Midtown parades for Muslims, Mexicans, and the actual Labor Day Parade. In terms of atmosphere, it's one of the absolute best times of year for a visit. In the last week of the month is the general assembly of the United Nations. This, of course, closes the UN for visitors but it also creates a traffic situation. Having a hundred world leaders in one place is a security nightmare and the entire area around East Midtown is blocked off and many Midtown streets will be temporarily blocked for motorcades. It's definitely a week when you want to take the subway instead of a taxi. All this excitement makes for a fun visit. There are events, parades, performers, and people watching galore. Plus the beautiful weather generally means people can stay out all afternoon and night. This is NYC at its best.<br />
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<b>Verdict</b> - It's not a great time to visit if you're on a budget. But otherwise, September is one of the top months for a visit. The tourists recede and the New Yorkers return giving the city a great energy. Whether you want to see the big sights or just soak up the vibe it's a wonderful time of year.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>October</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/sL1qKLtCW-/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A photo posted by Shawn (@nytourguy)</a> on <time datetime="2014-08-27T02:28:53+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Aug 26, 2014 at 7:28pm PDT</time></b></span></div>
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This is my absolute favorite month of the year. The changing seasons begins to add some glorious amber hues to the cityscape by early October and by the end of the month the whole city is aflame with the red, yellows, and oranges of the turning leaves. </div>
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<b>Cost</b> - October continues the high costs of September. Hotel and flight rates stay very high for the whole month and can even go up during the mid month holiday weekend. There will be very few discounts around town. Be prepared for a full price holiday this time of year and make your hotel bookings early. </div>
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<b>Weather</b> - It's cool, crisp, and gorgeous. It's still possible to have t-shirt weather in the first two weeks of the month, but days will normally be around 65 degrees (18 C) with nights requiring a few layers. By the end of the month, the chill in the air is more noticeable and days dip to the upper 50s (14 C). October is one of the driest times of year, but if rain is in the forecast it can be the cold dreary kind, so dig out a raincoat and waterproof boots in case you get a little spot of rain during your stay. But the best part is the changing colors of the leaves, especially in the parks. Most places in the American Northeast have their leaves turn in mid-October, but New York's urban heat bubble keeps the leaves mostly green until Columbus Day. The bright orange maples will be turning in mid-October but most everything else waits until the last week of the month. If I had to guess which week will be the most colorful it will either be the last week of October of the first week of November. </div>
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<b>Crowds</b> - The tourist crowds aren't too bad, with one major exception. In recent years, huge crowds are visiting in the second weekend of October. It's a three day weekend in the US for Columbus Day. It's not a huge holiday but it's enough to boost the crowds. Canada also has a major holiday on the same day for their Thanksgiving. And lots of European schools have a midterm break. Because it's not a huge holiday for locals to leave town--lots of offices are open on Columbus Day--that weekend is one of the most crowded of the year. October is also when subways are at their most crowded. Recent Octobers have seen days of more than 6 million rides in a day on the subway. But other than the holiday in the middle of the month, tourist attractions aren't too crowded, even if the subways are. </div>
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<b>Events & Atmosphere</b> - The chill in the air isn't sharp enough to drive people inside just yet, so the city remains lively and bustling. As if the crowds on Columbus Day weekend weren't big enough, that weekend is also the most popular convention of the year, New York Comic Con. The convention brings out costumed fans of comics, video games, and movies congregating at the Javits Center on the West Side. Mid-October also is Open House New York, a great weekend of events featuring tours and access to buildings, studios, and historic sites that are normally off limits to the public. There's more parades as well, two for Columbus Day, small parades for Polish and Korean New Yorkers, and the fun-filled Halloween Parade in Greenwich Village. The Halloween Parade is one of my favorites since it's sort of a free-for-all where anyone in costume can join in the parade along with the troupes of performers. It's another great month for people watching as the parks, bars, and restaurants are filled with people enjoying the great weather and ambiance. </div>
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<b>Verdict</b> - This is my favorite month of the year to visit New York, as long as you avoid the Comic Con/Columbus Day/Thanksgiving holiday weekend. In fact, if I had to pick a single favorite week of the year, it would be the last weekend of October. The color is peaking on the trees, the crowds are negligible, it's cool without being cold, there's fun holiday stuff happening for Halloween but none of the crazy crowds since its not a school holiday, and the city's residents are out and about enjoying the season. The only downside is the high cost of travel in October. So it's not good for those on a budget. But if you can afford to, it's my favorite time of year for a visit. There's only one potential wrench in visiting the last week of October and it has to do with the scheduling of November's major event...</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>November</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/m5Rgf8tCXt/" style="color: black; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none; word-wrap: break-word;" target="_blank">The city in the mist. #centralpark #sheepmeadow #fog #rain #manhattan #nyc #realnytours</a></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>A photo posted by Shawn (@nytourguy) on <time datetime="2014-04-17T14:49:42+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Apr 17, 2014 at 7:49am PDT</time></b></span></div>
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November is a bi-polar month. There are two of the busiest weeks of the year sandwiching two of the quietest. Thanksgiving and the New York Marathon define the calendar for the month. But other than those major events, it's a pretty slow month.</div>
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<b>Cost </b>- Because of the bi-polar nature of the month, costs can vary week to week. Flights stay pretty close to their Autumn highs, but can shoot up around Thanksgiving week. Hotels are a little cheaper than in peak time in September or October but still a little pricier than in Spring. But there is variation since Marathon and Thanksgiving weekends are high demand but the in between weeks are much less so. There aren't much discounts for food or entertainment, but there are always the "black Friday" sales beginning the day after Thanksgiving. You have to be a bit of a masochist to brave Macy's on black Friday but there are smaller stores offering discounts and the crowds might actually be less than suburban shopping malls. </div>
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<b>Weather</b> - The first weeks of November are still glorious. Some years the fall color doesn't actually hit its peak until the first or even second week of November. But after mid-November things can start getting a little gloomy. The end of daylight saving time means sunset suddenly occurs before 5 PM. When rain comes, it can often be a cold, dreary, drizzly kind. And without any leaves on the trees, those damp November days can seem awfully dour. But there are lots of lovely, cool, sunny days too. But beware the end of November when temperatures really begin to feel chilly. Daytime temperatures are down to the high 40s (9 C) and nights are close to freezing. It's even possible to get snow or sleet in November, though rain is much more likely. So come the first week or two for great days, but by Thanksgiving don't expect lovely weather.</div>
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<b>Crowds</b> - It's almost best to take this week by week. The marathon week is a busy one. The hotel rooms are jammed full, but the attractions aren't too bad. Some runners and their rooters take the time to do some sightseeing but others are just focused on the race. It's not as bad for visiting the sights as a major holiday weekend but it's still busy. The next two or three weeks until Thanksgiving are the quietest of the year outside of January and February. Our tour business always experiences a slight lull during these few weeks. Crowds for major attractions are minimal and waits are short. Locals are still in town though and so as long as the weather's nice everything is still lively around town. Roads and trains are still busy. But once Thanksgiving week hits, things flip around. NYC schools and offices are still open at the beginning of the week though the tourist crowds start to filter in. Then on Wednesday there is a mass exodus from train stations, bus stations, tunnels, and bridges all over town as New Yorkers leave to see family outside the city. The next day is quiet all over town except for the massive amounts of visitors in town for the holiday weekend. It's one of those tourist-centric weekends that makes for poor sightseeing and an easy time getting restaurant tables outside of Midtown. </div>
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<b>Events & Atmosphere</b> - The New York Marathon brings 40,000 runners to the streets of New York and tens of thousands more spectators to the sidewalks. It's a great atmosphere as New Yorker's and visitors alike turn out to cheer on the runners through all five boroughs. Luckily, the race's Manhattan section is only above 59th street so if you want to do sightseeing anywhere in Manhattan south of Central Park the race doesn't get in the way. The marathon is always on the first Sunday of November so the crowds leading up to it are usually on the first week of November, but if the marathon falls on the 1st or 2nd of the month, as it did this year, that pushes the crowds back to October's final week. The rest of the month is quiet. There is a Veteran's Day Parade on the 11th, but most of the street fairs and outdoor events have packed up for the season. The other major event is the Thanksgiving Parade on the 4th Thursday of the month. It's a big event with hundreds of thousands of spectators. But because locals who don't go to the parade are mostly seeing family it's a quiet day for traffic and transit. Most shops are closed as well that day, but they open with a vengeance and big sales on Friday. It's not a busy weekend for neighborhood crowds, but the lines at attractions and museums are some of the busiest of the year.</div>
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<b>Verdict</b> - I think the first two weeks of the month are a great time to visit, especially if you can avoid marathon weekend. Those looking for avoiding crowds at the major attractions but also avoiding the dead of winter should look to come the middle weeks of November. The weather and scenery is also really nice in early November. But as the month goes on it becomes less appealing to visit. The city looks a bit more dull without leaves or snow, and cold rain really is crummy for walking around. And Thanksgiving weekend isn't a great feel for the city at its most lively. Prices vary a lot so it can be a good deal depending on when you come. I think of the second week of November as the perfect spot in the month.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>December</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/z7oIEutCQ0/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A photo posted by Shawn (@nytourguy)</a> on <time datetime="2015-03-07T15:33:56+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Mar 7, 2015 at 7:33am PST</time></b></span></div>
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Christmas in New York is a special time of year. Christmas tree markets bring the scent of fresh pine to the sidewalks, shop windows are bedecked with intricate displays, and light snow covers the city in white. At least that's what it looks like in the movies. So how much of it is real and how much of it is Hollywood magic?</div>
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<b>Cost</b> - December is not a discounted month at all, but it can vary a lot based on when exactly you visit. Flights are expensive, especially around the actual Christmas holiday. Hotel rates are expensive in the weeks before Christmas and then drop somewhat around the actual holiday. Then they go way up for the week between Christmas and New Year's. There are still some shopping deals early in the month, as well as the week after Christmas. But unless you come on the days around Christmas itself, it's an expensive month for travel.</div>
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<b>Weather</b> - Here's the dirty little secret about the Christmas season in New York. It probably won't snow. In fact, the average first snowfall for the year in New York is December 17th, only a week before Christmas. So if you visit in the first half of December, the temperature will probably be in the 40s (5-7 C) and if it does precipitate, it will probably be a cold rain. In the second half of the month, snow is more likely. But even as the odds improve, New York only has snow on the ground for Christmas about once every five years. So plan for cold rain on a Christmas visit, but bring the winter gear too. While it may not be probable, it's certainly possible to have frigid temperatures and snow, especially by the end of the month. </div>
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<b>Crowds</b> - Let's start at the end. The week between Christmas Day and New Year's Day is the busiest of the whole year for tourism. There's always crowds so thick you can barely move around 5th Avenue and Times Square. Lines are epic to get into major attractions. I even saw a half hour wait and a line around the corner to get into the Museum of Natural History this year. Trying to see the Rockefeller Center Christmas tree on the weekend after Christmas is almost impossible because of the sheer volume of people. And the weekends before Christmas aren't much better. The heavy tourist crowds are augmented by lots of families coming in from the suburbs for a day of shopping, shows, and a festive holiday meal. The very first weekend of December isn't too bad but the rest of them are really busy. That being said, the first three weeks of December aren't too bad Monday to Friday. Most folks are still at work or school and so the big crowds keep away. The crowds begin to arrive the weekend before Christmas, but they actually thin out on Christmas Day and the day before and after. Christmas Day itself is as quiet as you will ever see New York as most everything is closed and folks are celebrating with family. Traffic is snarled pretty good for much of December, and big crowds remain on the subway up until Christmas Eve and then thin out for the rest of the month.</div>
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<b>Atmosphere & Events</b> - The whole month of December is all about Christmas--and being such a Jewish city Hanukkah as well. Radio City Music Hall is doing four shows a day of the Christmas Spectacular, great trees are lit not just in Rockefeller Center but on Wall Street and at the South Street Seaport and all over town. People carry shopping bags home, or even carry their Christmas trees home. The Christmas tree stands are everywhere. Half a dozen holiday markets selling crafts and gifts open up all over Manhattan. Skaters glide through rinks in Central Park, Bryant Park, and Rockefeller Center. Shop window displays amaze every year. And homes, shops, restaurants, and bars are all decked out for the season. It's no wonder people want to come here, Christmas really is a fun and special time of year. Sure the crowds can make it a challenge to enjoy it, especially in Midtown. But if you go and see the big things like Rockefeller Center later at night you can avoid a lot of the crowds there for work or for the day. And then, of course, the month ends with New Year's Eve. I will admit to being a killjoy about NYE in NYC. The idea of standing in Times Square for 8 hours in the cold to see the ball drop strikes me as nuts. And most of the bars and restaurants are overcrowded and gouging their prices. There's certainly plenty going on with fireworks in Central Park and in the harbor to augment the Times Square craziness, but I've always enjoyed a quiet NYE with friends so it's one of my least favorite holidays. If you want to have a great night on the town in NYC, do it some other night when the rest of the known universe doesn't have the same idea.</div>
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<b>Verdict</b> - Christmas is really a great time of year in New York. The city really does look and feel great. Just be prepared for big crowds and be prepared for cold rain and no snow, especially early in December. But there's ways of enjoying the season if you avoid seeing the most popular things on weekend</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02913900331338800605noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8406436286979342761.post-71115874570587824622015-11-20T07:49:00.000-05:002017-04-06T20:09:14.674-04:0030 Days in NYC (Day 9) - The Metropolitan Museum of Art <br />
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Day 9 is all about one of the greatest treasures in New York City, the Metropolitan Museum of Art. It would take weeks just to fully explore the museum. The figures are staggering. The museum's front stretches along for five blocks of 5th Avenue. Inside is two million square feet of exhibit space and a collection of more than three million pieces. The museum includes everything from contemporary 21st century art all the way back to a Persian jar from 5,700 years ago. It features fully reconstructed rooms from ancient Egypt, renaissance Italy, and 20th century Wisconsin. What I'm trying to say is, you aren't going to see the whole museum. Don't even try. In fact, even trying to spend a whole uninterrupted day there is exhausting. So I've developed a few strategies. I actually love going to the museum on Fridays and Saturdays when it is open until 9 PM. That allows me to break up the day by going for a few hours in the morning and then returning in the evening. So that's the way I'm going to lay it out today. As for what to see at the museum, that's really up to each visitor individually. There's so much to see that there's no need to focus on an area that doesn't interest you. So I'll focus on some of the most popular highlights as well as some personal favorites. But by no means will this be an exhaustive guide to the Metropolitan Museum of Art.<br />
Finally, a note about the museum's admission policy: The Met requires visitors to pay to access the museum but visitors may pay any amount they like. So yes, if you want to be a jerk you can pay with a penny. As you enter the museum, there are ticket counters displaying an adult admission prices at a "recommended" $25. However, when buying your tickets you can pay any amount you feel comfortable with. I fully support anyone who pays the full admission fee. I also realize many people are unable or unwilling to pay the full amount and that is perfectly fine. The Met is meant, in both law and spirit, to be a place where everyone can appreciate the finest works of art in the history of the planet. There's no pressure to pay the full amount. And I've never found the ticket agents disagreeable if I decide to pay a smaller amount. It does make it slightly less awkward to have the exact amount in hand you want to pay, that way you just slap it down and ask for however many tickets you want.<br />
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<b>Day 9 </b>- Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Upper East Side<br />
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<b>Morning</b> - Arrive right for the opening at 10 AM to avoid the biggest crowds. Morning is also when the light hits the museum's grand 5th Avenue facade. The museum may have opened in 1872 but the current beaux-arts entry wasn't built until 1902. Over the years, the museum has kept expanding, often swallowing old wings of the museum into newer galleries. Some of the original walls of the museum are actually preserved. The decorative brick and stone wall of the European sculpture court is actually the museum's 1888 south wall. But the grand entry has remained unchallenged since the turn of the 20th century and it is a great place to sit and people watch. If you're breaking the museum up into to two parts of the day, it makes the most sense to focus on the first floor for one part and the second floor for the other. Let's spend the morning downstairs. The highlights here are the Greek, Roman, and Egyptian collections. On your right as you walk into the museum is the Egyptian wing. The major highlight here is the Temple of Dendur, which sits in a modern glassy exhibit hall on the north side of the museum. The temple was built just over 2000 years ago, but it was slated to be submerged by the construction of the Aswan High Dam in the 1960s. UNESCO, the United States, and many other groups helped the Egyptian government save the historic relics from destruction and as a thank you, the Egyptians gave the temple to the United States.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Temple of Dendur</td></tr>
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If you double back to the main lobby and walk through to the opposite wing, you'll find the recently expanded Greek and Roman collection. The main highlight it the newly renovated and skylit Roman sculpture court. The first floor also contains the Met's currently under renovation contemporary wing, European sculpture and interiors, the American sculpture court, and the fantastic arms and armory collection. I suppose it's a bit gender sterotyped that I've spent way more time among the armor than the armoires but I just enjoy the sense of motion imbued in the full body, mounted suits of armor that march in formation through the armory hall. The American court is the best spot for a break in the museum. The space is flooded by light and is anchored by the whole facade of the former Branch Bank of the United States, reassembled after its demolition on Wall Street. Make sure to head through the American interiors wing to see the fully reconstructed living room of one of Frank Lloyd Wright's Midwestern homes.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The American Court</td></tr>
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Head out of the museum after a few hours. Make sure to keep your little admission sticker to re-enter the museum later. The Met is only one of many museums along 5th Avenue's "museum mile." Walk up 5th Avenue to 88th Street, home of the famous Guggenheim Museum. This is one of New York's iconic architectural masterpieces. Opened in 1959, the building is Frank Lloyd Wright's last work and it is a stunner. Wright famously said his Guggenheim would make the Met "look like a Protestant barn." I actually feel that it's only worth going to the Guggenheim if the featured exhibit looks interesting to you because the main collection is not as large as some other museums. They tend to dedicate the main space of the museum to the current exhibition. So it's not necessary to go in, but it's always great to walk by the building.<br />
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Just up the street on 5th and 90th is the Cooper-Hewitt Design Museum. Here too the building outshines the museum. The museum is housed inside Andrew Carnegie's 1903 mansion, which was a marvel of design in its day and serves as a fitting home to a museum of practical items.<br />
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<b>Lunch</b>:<b> </b>There are a few nice options along 97th Street on the edge of the Upper East Side. East 96th Street is one of the harshest socio-economic borders in America with the incredibly affluent Upper East Side on the south and the much poorer East Harlem to the north. Even the geography changes from tall buildings on hilly streets to low flat streets dotted by housing projects. So it's no surprise that the best food options are right on the border. Da Capo on Madison between 96th and 97th makes wonderful paninis. Earl's Beer and Cheese is a great craft beer bar with all kinds of cheesy plates. It's located right on Park Avenue between 97th and 98th, just as the railroad tracks appear from under the street marking another visual transition from one neighborhood to the next. It's also a great idea to make the short walk--or one stop ride on the 6 train--to 103rd and Lexington in East Harlem. East Harlem is the heart of Hispanic heritage in New York. It's long been a home to Puerto Rican, Dominican, and now Mexican immigrants. Check out the Casa Azul bookstore on 103rd, just west of Lexington for a look at local literature. On 104th and Lexington is the enormous "Spirit of East Harlem" mural that celebrates the Puerto Rican culture of the neighborhood. And for a lunch you will have to walk off, go to El Nuevo Caribeno on 105th and Lex for huge portions of roast pork, mofongo, tostones, and rice and beans.<br />
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/1VbProNCSP/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">A photo posted by Shawn (@nytourguy)</a> on <time datetime="2015-04-11T12:33:02+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Apr 11, 2015 at 5:33am PDT</time></div>
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<b>Afternoon</b>: Walk east on 105th Street and take a left on 2nd Ave to catch the M15 Select Bus on 106th and 2nd. This is a new setup for New York City buses where you slide your metrocard into a machine at the bus stop and keep your receipt. That way everyone boards the bus at once through all the doors, and you only have to show the receipt if the transit police ask for it. Take the bus two stops and get off at 88th Street. This section of the Upper East Side was once known--and still sometimes is--as Yorkville. It was the heart of a thriving German and Central European community that has mostly disappeared. But on 1st Avenue between 88th and 87th is the century old Glaser's Bake Shop, one of the last great German bakeries in New York. It features incredible danishes, cinnamon rolls, and most famously the classic New York black & white cookie. It's not actually a cookie but a small thin cake frosted in half chocolate and half vanilla, and Glaser's makes one of the best. Though it's the cinnamon roll that keeps me coming back. Grab something for now or later and keep heading east to Carl Schurz Park. The park looks out over the East River and has a nice view of Roosevelt Island and Astoria, Queens. The notable landmark of the park is Gracie Mansion, a country home built in 1799 when the park land was distant countryside. Since 1942 the home has served as the official residence of the Mayor of New York and his or her family, so it's a bit high security. There's not much to see of the lovely clapboard home above the security walls, but it's still worth a trip to Schurz Park for the river views.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"A Gorge in the Mountains" by Sanford Robinson Gifford</td></tr>
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Walk back to York Avenue where the M86 Select Bus will pick you up at 86th Street and bring you back to 5th Ave and 86th Street, a close walk back to the Met. Head back in and go upstairs where the great painting collection of the museum is held. The most popular wings of the 2nd floor are the European masters. At the top of the grand staircase are the galleries of European painters from the Renaissance and into the early 19th century. My favorite is El Greco's "View from Toledo" which looks centuries ahead of its time. To the left, in the south wing are the impressionists and post-impressionists. Great works from Monet, Van Gogh, Cezanne, Degas, and more are hung one after the other. But for me the greatest paintings on the second floor are the American painters that hang in the north wing. This is an American museum after all, so while the museums of Europe can claim greater collections of European masters, they will never surpass the Met's collection Winslow Homer, Edward Hopper, Mary Cassatt, Thomas, Cole, John Singer Sargent, and all the rest of America's venerable art history. The Hudson River School landscapes are my pilgrimage every time I visit the museum. I just love the sweeping American landscapes painted onto oversized canvases. But the biggest painting in the collection the is grandiose "Washington Crossing the Delaware" by Emanuel Leutze and it is instantly recognizable to every American schoolkid. The second floor also features art from Asia and the Middle East. Enjoy the galleries until the late Friday/Saturday closing at 9 PM.<br />
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<b>Dinner</b>: There aren't very many restaurants within easy reach of the Met. Mostly they are clustered back around 3rd and 2nd Avenues. Two of my favorites are Beyoglu, a casual and delicious Turkish restaurant on the corner of 81st and 3rd, and Boqueria on 2nd Ave between 76th and 77th, a Spanish tapas restaurant with memorable bacon wrapped dates. The venerable NYC mini-chain Meatball Shop is also located next to Boqueria on 2nd Ave.<br />
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<b>Evening</b>: You'll already have taken up most of the evening with the museum and dinner if you stay late, but if you'd rather leave the museum early, you could always check into the offerings at the 92nd Street Y, on 92nd and Lex. It's renowned for the variety of programming they put on, particularly lectures, interviews, and talks with leaders in food, art, and culture. They have performances of dance, music, and theater most nights as well. Even if you don't know the performers, it's a beloved community space that always makes for an interesting night.<br />
And for one of the classiest nightcaps in the world head over the the nightly jazz set at Bemelmans Bar, located in the Carlyle Hotel on 76th and Madison. This is the kind of bar a man in a tuxedo can feel right at home in. The name of the bar comes from Ludwig Bemelmans who created the timeless "Madeline" children's books. He spent time living at the hotel and painted the murals that line the bar and help to add some whimsy to what would otherwise be a very stiff setting. Cover charges in the evening range from $15-$30, and the drinks aren't cheap. But it's one of the few places on the Upper East Side where the elegance of the neighborhood comes alive and is accessible to everyone.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02913900331338800605noreply@blogger.com2Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, NY 10028, USA40.7791865 -73.96353479999999140.7761805 -73.968577299999993 40.7821925 -73.958492299999989tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8406436286979342761.post-14511698371723389472015-08-24T08:33:00.000-04:002017-04-06T20:08:59.458-04:0030 Days in NYC (Day 8)- Queens<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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For many years Queens was seen as the everyman, middle-class borough of New York City. It was seen as not only lacking Manhattan's glitz, but also lacking The Bronx's grittiness, Brooklyn's creativity, or even Staten Island or New Jersey's '<i>we get no respect</i>' swagger. Queens has been the TV home of New York's unglamorous, mostly White middle class for years. From Archie Bunker, to the Costanzas on <i>Seinfeld</i>, to <i>King of Queens</i> and Fran Drescher's "Nanny." Essentially, Queens has a reputation for being boring. But things have changed in Queens over a generation. Queens is still home to the hard-working, unassuming residents it always has been, but now there's a twist. Queens is now the most ethnically and culturally diverse place on Earth. Immigrants from all over the world call Queens home and now foreign-born residents make up almost half of Queens' population. Exploring Queens is like making a trip around the world. You can taste the food and hear the music of cultures as varied as can be found anywhere.So it's time to put the sitcom tropes to bed and explore the incredible culture of Queens.<br />
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<b>Day 8 </b>- Queens (Forest Hills, Jackson Heights, and Flushing)<br />
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<b>Morning</b> - Unlike Manhattan and Brooklyn, Queens is a product of the 20th century. For most of the 18th and 19th centuries Queens was just farmland, with scattered towns or factories mixed in. Construction and development exploded with the completion of the Queensboro Bridge in 1909, the opening of Penn Station and the Long Island Railroad tunnel in 1910, and the first subway tunnels in 1915 and 1917. Suddenly and entirely undeveloped part of the city had rail, road, and subway access to Midtown Manhattan. Developers madly rushed into the void and began building houses and apartment buildings all over Queens. In some neighborhoods, developers were able to buy up farmland in large swaths and create entire communities. Forest Hills and Jackson Heights both were built up in this fashion and Forest Hills is where we start the morning. Multiple subway lines bring you to 71st Ave, the E and F are express from Manhattan and get you to Forest Hills in only a half hour from Midtown. Walking down 71st Ave brings you past the commercial strip of Austin Avenue, under the Long Island Railroad tracks and into Station Square, the grand entry to the Forest Hills Gardens section.<br />
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Passing through the entryway on the left brings you into one of the most unexpected sights in NYC, the leafy streets and English-style manors of Forest Hills Gardens. The gardens are a 175 acre community designed in 1909 to emulate the garden communities built in England over the previous decades. These communities were meat to provide regular people a leafy, self-sufficient town in which they could live, shop, and work in a more urban version of the sweeping country homes the English aristocracy enjoyed. And while the ideal may have been an everyman community, in reality the large homes on plush lawns, easy Manhattan access, and privately managed community structure have all made the gardens into one of the most expensive areas in the Outer Boroughs. And the fact that the whole community is privately owned and operated means the standard NYC street signs and lamps are replaced with whimsical, nostalgic pieces with a tudor flair. Walking along Greenway North or Greenway South gives the best views of the neighborhood. As you walk in past Station Square, the first sight are apartment buildings and rowhouses full of bay windows, turrets, spires, and other tudor accents. Past Ascan Avenue, the townhomes become mansions, and each street is full of larger and more ornate homes, until reaching Markwood Road and Greenway North where the largest home in the gardens recalls more a nobleman's estate than a working man's cottage.<br />
Return towards the station by cutting back to Greenway South. From there, make a left on Slocum Crescent and walk out of the gardens to 69th Avenue. One block to the right on 69th is the restored ruins of Forest Hills Stadium. In 1914, the West Side Tennis Club moved from it's club on Manhattan's West Side to a new facility in Forest Hills. Up to that point, the US Open Tennis Championship was held in Newport, Rhode Island. But the new facility gave an excuse to move the tournament to Queens in 1915 where it has been ever since. Forest Hills Stadium was built in 1923 to host the tournament, which it did until moving to Flushing Meadows in 1978. In addition to tennis, the stadium hosted concerts through the 60s and 70s serving as a host to famous performances by Jimi Hendrix, The Who, and The Rolling Stones. After crumbling for decades, the stadium has been partially restored and 2015 saw the first lineup of summer concerts that included Alabama Shakes, Ed Sheeran, and even the return of The Who. Walk back on Burns Street to Station Square and hop on the E or F train one (express) stop back to Roosevelt Ave in Jackson Heights.
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Stepping off the subway onto bustling Roosevelt Avenue certainly feels like a different world than Forest Hills. The intersection of Broadway--not the one in Manhattan--and Roosevelt is one of the busiest in the city and serves as Queens' largest transit hub. But the neighborhood around it, Jackson Heights, was built at the same time and with the same principles as Forest Hills Gardens. The neighborhood was farmland when the whole area was bought by the Queensboro Corporation in 1909. Development was slow at first but the opening of the elevated 7 train in 1915 led to a boom in property values and construction began in earnest.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the 7 train in 1917</td></tr>
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Unlike in Forest Hills, the development in Jackson Heights consisted almost entirely of apartment blocks. Each one would take up the entire frontage of a block and look into a private interior garden shared by the whole building complex. These "garden apartments" create long blocks of beautiful, uniform apartment entrances. The other big difference to Forest Hills Gardens is that Jackson Heights' streets remain public. The mix of grand apartments and smaller, simpler rental buildings have meant cheaper rents. This has led to Jackson Heights becoming New York's famous neighborhood for cultural diversity. South Asians from India, Tibet, and Bangladesh mix with South Americans from Peru, Colombia, Argentina, and Ecuador to create a wonderful ethnic stew. So it sounds as if lunch is in order!<br />
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<b>Lunch:</b> Options are everywhere! The hub of South Asian food is on 73rd and 74th Streets, as well as nearby 37th Avenue. Sari shops, Bollywood music stores, and Indian grocers line 74th while Bangladeshi markets and mosques feature more prominently on 73rd. There's tons of options for snacks, and there's outdoor tables on the plaza between Broadway and 74th Street. Samudra Chaat House on 37th Ave (between 75th and 76th) is great for South Indian crepes called dosas, or snacks like chaat or samosas. Excellent himalayan dumplings called momo can be found from carts like Potala Cart on Broadway and 73rd. There's more delicious Tiebtan/Nepalese food at tiny Tawa Foods on 72nd and Broadway. There's even a Tibetan snack shop inside the mobile phone shop at 37-50 74th Street. For an authentic Bangladeshi experience grab some biryani or other hot dishes inside the grocery store Haat Bazaar on 73rd Street. Desert is always great at Rajbhog bakery on 37th Ave. But what about the Latino options?! Back under the elevated train on Roosevelt Ave is Taqueria Coatzingo for awesome tacos and tortas on Roosevelt (between 76th and 77th). One of my absolute favorites is the new Arepa cafe on 77th Street just south of Roosevelt and is the spot for arepas, Colombian corn patties filled with meat and cheese. The owners' are the family of the famous Arepa Lady who would appear late on weekend nights only to sell from a street cart. Mama's Empanadas is on Roosevelt (between 77th and 76th) and offers dozens of varieties of empanadas cooked fresh to order. <br />
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After lunch, have a walk up 80th Street to 34th Avenue. This will pass by the finest of the garden apartments, The Greystone, The Chateu, and The Towers on the corner of 34th Ave. Planted medians grace 34th Ave, which used to lead to the short lived Jackson Heights golf course. It also provides a peek in to the private gardens on The Towers and The Chateau. Walking back along 81st Street, you'll notice a street sign at 35th Avenue with numbers underneath each letter. This denotes the birthplace of Scrabble, which was invented by Alfred Mosher Butts and first played in the basement rec room of the church on the corner. Head over to 82nd Street and back to Roosevelt Ave to catch the 7 train out towards Flushing.<br />
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<b>Afternoon:</b> Get off the 7 at Mets-Willets Point and head into Queens' most famous landmark: Flushing Meadows-Corona Park. Before the 1930s this area was the famous ash heap featured in <i>The Great Gatsby</i>. In 1939 it was transformed into a new fairground and hosted the 1939 World's Fair. Many of the structures remained and were used for temporary headquarters of the United Nations before their Midtown offices opened. It was used again for the World's Fair in 1964 and attracted more than 50 million visitors during its run. Now, 50 years after the last Belgian waffles were served, the fair buildings are in various states of repair and serve as the backdrop to the everyday groups of families picnicking, playing volleyball, soccer, or skateboarding. From the subway, cross over the train yard and follow signs for the Unisphere. This 140 foot tall steel globe was the centerpiece of the fair and is now the undisputed symbol of Queens and its global diversity. When the fountains at the base are on in summer, neighborhood kids jump in the cool spray. And when cooler weather prevails the base becomes a de facto skate park.<br />
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Other fair relics are in less pristine condition. The famous towers of the NY State Pavilion are nearly destroyed from neglect--though you may still recognize them as the UFOs from <i>Men in Black</i>. But one fair attraction still remains on display inside the Queens Museum, right next to the Unisphere. It is the Panorama of New York City. It was built for the fair to highlight the municipal infrastructure and housing of the city, but the view that fairgoers and visitors today see isn't just diagrams or maps of housing plots. Instead, builders created a scale model of the entire city. All five boroughs, and every single building within them. The panorama is on a 1:1200 scale, meaning structures like the Empire State Building tower at 15 inches tall. Major landmarks and buildings were built with exact miniatures and the rest of the city's structures were completed with non-specific home or apartment designs. All told, the model covers almost 10,000 square feet and 895,000 buildings are represented. The last major upgrade was 1992, but the model remains an imposing achievement. And other than actually flying above the city, there's no better way to get a view of the whole scale of the five boroughs and where everything fits within it.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Manhattan and Brooklyn on the Panorama of New York City</td></tr>
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After leaving the museum, you'll head back towards the 7 train and past the Nationl Tennis Center, home of the U.S. Open every September since moving from Forest Hills in 1978. The dominant feature is Arthur Ashe stadium, the world's largest tennis arena. But there are smaller courts inside and out and when the Open isn't in town, the courts are available for the public to play. Get back on the 7 for one stop to the terminus, Main Street-Flushing.<br />
The neighborhood of Flushing is one of the most historic areas of the city. It was one of the original Dutch towns of Long Island and one of the only places in New York City where any 17th century buildings remain standing. Today, they are hidden among 20th century homes and apartments and a huge influx of Indian, Korean, and especially Chinese immigrants. Flushing--along with Brooklyn's Sunset Park--have both passed Chinatown in Manhattan to become one of the largest Chinese immigrant settlements in the world. And when you come aboveground on Main Street you will be right in the heart of it. Markets, bubble tea shops, and all kinds of Chinese shops line Main Street for blocks. Just like Manhattan's Chinatown, Main Street feels like you have been dropped off in another world.<br />
Flushing's history is one of religious freedom and diversity. Walk east on Roosevelt Ave for two blocks and take a left on Bowne Street. Just up the street is the Bowne House, the former home of local leader John Bowne. The house was first built in 1661 and expanded a few times to its present appearance in 1695. It is incredibly rare to have an intact, onsite 17th century building in New York City. No more than a few exist. The Bowne House also saw incredibly important history in its first few years. Dutch authorities had forbid the practice of any religion but the Dutch Reformed Church. Flushing's Quaker community defied the ban, delivering a petition to Governor Stuyvesant called the "Flushing Remonstrance." They cited Dutch charters granting freedom of conscience and continued to worship secretly, including at the Bowne House. Bowne was arrested and refused to pay the fine so he was sent for trial in Holland. He won his case and returned to Flushing. The old Quaker Meeting House from 1694 also still stands and holds services on Northern Blvd--one block north of Bowne House--between Union and Main Street. It is one of over 200 houses of worship inside the two square miles of Flushing that represent dozens of different faiths. Two of the most beautiful are in opposite directions. The Hanmaum Buddhist Temple is an architectural gem that belongs on a Korean mountain, and is located on Bayside Ave between 146th Street and Parsons Blvd. And the Ganesh Hindu Temple stands proud on Bowne Street between 45th Ave and Holly Ave. In addition to fabulous Indian architecture, it is known for its cafeteria which serves flavorful South Indian food. And speaking of food:<br />
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<b>Dinner:</b> The Chinese food in Flushing is more varied, flavorful, and exotic than even Manhattan's Chinatown. More recent immigrants have hailed from all over China and thus Flushing provides food from almost every imaginable province. Some are in modern restaurants or shopping centers, some are pleasant but simple restaurant spaces, and some are basement stands with little English to help the "foreign" diner. Some of the best are on Prince Street, one block west of Main. Nan Xiang, between 38th and 39th Avenues, specializes in one thing: Xiao Long Bao, better known as Shanghainese Soup Dumplings. They are a mess to eat, but taste amazing. Fu Run, between Roosevelt and 40th Road specializes in Northern Chinese cuisine. Their famous dish is lamb chops smothered in spices and seasoning. Biang is on Main Street between 41st Ave and 41st Road and is a much more modern feeling restaurant but serving the authentic spicy fare of Xi'an. The owner's father opened the first Xi'an food stand in Flushing and now his kids have taken over and brought the food into a modern New York setting. The lamb burgers and handmade cold noodles are the favorite here. And if you want to see where the Flushing food craze took off, head into the barely signed Golden Mall 41-28 Main Street. There's a small entrance from the street that seems like a tiny shop. But inside is a rat maze of shops and food stalls on the 1st floor, and an entire warren of food in the basement. Lanzhou handmade noodles is my favorite--and it even features English translations. But the incredible variety of food from Chengdu, Henan, Wenzhou, and Taipei is amazing.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'm enjoying lamb noodle soup</td></tr>
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<b>Evening:</b> Flushing doesn't have a prominent nightlife scene. So if the weather is nice and the schedule lines up, it's time to step right up and greet the Mets! Take the 7 train one stop back to Mets-Willets Point and on the other side of the tracks is Citi Field, home of the New York Mets baseball club. The Yankees may have championships, history, and an international brand, but there's another baseball team in town. The Mets are the favorite for many residents of Queens and Long Island, but especially for anybody who loves an underdog. The team may have two World Series titles since their inception in 1962, but they've had a lot more near misses, crushing defeats, and lackluster seasons. But as I write this in 2015 the Mets are on track to head to the playoffs for the first time in nine years. But it's not yet September, and as every Met fan can tell you there's still plenty of time to screw it up. The stadium is modern and enjoyable, the fans are fun, the food and beer is great, and it all adds up to a great evening outside in the summer air.<br />
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<a href="https://instagram.com/p/nHWd1LG8wI/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_top">A photo posted by Christine Lynch (@purplecl)</a> on <time datetime="2014-04-23T02:02:23+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Apr 22, 2014 at 7:02pm PDT</time></div>
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<script async="" defer="" src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02913900331338800605noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8406436286979342761.post-14921151370839151182015-05-25T16:34:00.002-04:002015-05-25T16:39:23.959-04:00New York Reading List - The Great Bridge<i> The Great Bridge</i> by David McCollough is one of those wonderful pieces of non-fiction where a great historical event is rendered into such a irresistible narrative that the pages fly through your hand. The bridge to link Manhattan to Brooklyn for the first time took almost two decades and twisted through years of corruption, scandal, dedication, construction, illness, and tragedy. <i>The Great Bridge</i> is a detailed yet evocative report of every aspect of how the Brooklyn Bridge was built, from conception to completion.<br />
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<a href="https://instagram.com/p/mD1UTYtCbl/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_top">A photo posted by Shawn (@nytourguy)</a> on <time datetime="2014-03-27T20:43:37+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Mar 27, 2014 at 1:43pm PDT</time></div>
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More than 100,000 people cross the Brooklyn Bridge every day by car, bike, and foot. The bridge is a beloved icon by almost everyone. But few take the time on their crossing to consider the incredible achievement of its construction. One of the most amazing features of the bridge is just how old it is. It opened in May of 1883--132 years ago as of this writing--and was by far the longest and tallest suspension bridge in the world. The New York City of 1883 was a very different place. For one, New York and Brooklyn were separate cities. The Statue of Liberty was still awaiting funds, Ellis Island and Carnegie Hall had yet to open, Times Square was a collection of stables, gas lamps lit the city, elevated trains were powered by coal, ships' masts lined the East River, and the tallest building in the city was Trinity Church. There's an incredible audacity to Brooklyn Bridge; a road in the sky than few in New York had even dreamed.<br />
McCullough has a wonderful way of bringing that audacity to life. He links the story of the bridge to the family who are chiefly responsible for creating it, the Roeblings. John Roebling was a German immigrant who began life in the U.S. as a homesteader and instead turned to industry and built an engineering and wire making company from scratch. He completed major bridges throughout the country before proposing his grandest span over the East River. Sadly, he would die from a construction accident only months after work began and his son Washington would take over. Washington too suffered greatly in the construction of the bridge from physical ailments and pain caused by "the bends" compounded by nervous anxiety and stress. Even his wife Emily shouldered the burden of caring for him and for the bridge for years.<br />
The construction difficult and often deadly. The entire project had to negotiate the pitfalls of the corrupt New York government of Tammany Hall, the swindling of the bridge company by unscrupulous subcontractors, and the constant haranguing of the press that cast doubt over the project from almost every angle. But politicians, con-men, and a rabid penny press didn't prevent the Roeblings from building one of the greatest pieces of engineering in the world. Through the whole book, McCullough paints the Roeblings as faithful workers who always do the job the right way. And the bridge stands today as a testament to that success. <i>The Great Bridge</i> is a wonderful look into New York of the booming years of the 1870s and 80s. And when you walk across the bridge today, you'll be able to imagine the ships and small buildings beneath you, look up at the immense stone towers, and stand in absolute awe of the incredible feat of its construction.<br />
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<script async="" defer="" src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02913900331338800605noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8406436286979342761.post-40226390202346406592015-05-09T16:53:00.000-04:002015-05-09T17:00:43.642-04:00Broadway Alternatives: The Apollo TheaterThere are a few music venues that have come to ecapsulate what American music is and what it sounds like. The Grand Ole Opry in Nashville has defined country music for generations. The Fillmore in San Francisco made 60s flower power and rock n' roll an American standard. And up on 125th Street in Harlem stands the Apollo Theater. It's hard to believe that a theater that opened in 1914 as whites only burlesque in a largely Jewish neighborhood would become the soul of black music in America. But now more than a century after it opened it remains one of the best concert venues in New York City and a living history lesson of soul, R&B, funk, hip-hop, and everything in between.
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<a name='more'></a> The Apollo opened in 1914 under the name Hurtig & Seamon's New Burlesque Theater. At that time, the Great Migration that would later bring waves of African-Americans from the south to northern cities was only just beginning and Harlem was still a mostly white neighborhood. Waves of new black arrivals from the south, the Caribbean, and other NYC neighborhoods would converge in Harlem and most of the white population would be gone by the 1940s. The changing population meant that Hurtig & Seamon's white only policy was doomed for failure, and the theater was sold in 1928. After multiple owners failed to revive the theater, it was taken over by Sydney Cohen in 1933 who reversed the ban on black audiences and opened the theater to everyone, including backstage where, according to 1930s manager Frank Schiffman the Apollo employed more black workers than any theater in the country at the time. The theater became a hit showing everything from jazz, vaudeville, comedy, and dance featuring the best black performers in the country.<br />
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The theater has evolved and changed its lineups constantly as music styles have changed. Jazz performers and dancers like Bill "Bojangles" Robinson, Bessie Smith, Count Basie, and Duke Ellington dominated the thirties and forties The fifties would mix singers like Nat King Cole and Sammy Davis with jazz greats like Thelonious Monk and John Coltrane. As gospel, soul, and R&B came to define black music the Apollo would host the Staples Sisters, Sam Cooke, Ray Charles, Stevie Wonder, and more. The fun lasted until 1976 when the theater finally closed in the midst of the drugs and depression of New York in the 70s. But it wouldn't remain closed long. In a mere four decades the Apollo had become a defining spirit of American music and it was saved by an African-American media company who bought it and helped the theater achieve national landmark status. The Apollo is currently owned by the State of New York and operated by the non-profit Apollo Theater Foundation, who continues to book shows regularly. But the shows are sporadic, so if you want to see a show at the Apollo there's no guarantee that any major shows will be booked. But there's one show guaranteed to go on every Wednesday night: Amateur Night.<br />
Amateur Night at the Apollo started in 1934 when Cohen hired Ralph Cooper, who produced an amateur performance on the radio and at the nearby Lafayette Theater, to produce the show at the Apollo. They got off to a good start when a teenage Ella Fitzgerald won one of the first performances in 1934. She was originally slated to dance but was intimidated by the dance trio ahead of her on the bill, so she made a spur of the moment career move to singing. Amateur night has helped launch the careers of an astonishing number of amazing performers: Sarah Vaughan, Dionne Warwick, James Brown, Jimi Hendrix, Gladys Knight, the Jackson 5, Lauryn Hill, and so many more it will make your head spin. Some greats like Dave Chapelle, Ne-Yo, and Luther Vandross even went on to fame despite booings or poor showings at Amateur Night.<br />
And about the booing: The experience of going to Amateur Night is a very loose and interactive one. The house band keeps the audience literally dancing. The hosts crack jokes and get the audience involved by inviting audience members onstage to test their courage and improv a performance. The audience is invited to cheer their hearts out for their favorite performers and to boo lustily anyone they don't like. Anyone receiving more boos than cheers is subject to the ritual of being shooed off the stage by the resident "executioner" C.P. Lacey. It's a theater experience like no other, where the audience is part of the show and anything that isn't a crowd-pleaser is ushered off. For those bored by Broadway song and dance, spend a Wednesday night at the Apollo.<br />
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<script async="" defer="" src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02913900331338800605noreply@blogger.com1Apollo Theater40.810033 -73.95003910000002640.807025499999995 -73.955081600000028 40.8130405 -73.944996600000025tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8406436286979342761.post-87624491577893390982015-04-07T08:00:00.000-04:002017-04-06T20:08:46.275-04:0030 Days in NYC (Day 7) - Rockaway Beach<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfUHmJMu1UMvM278vE2PWi3iKNOCgSWlBy480xfed4PRrrWr418-szIgnbO4yWPMO113UnatRqfVzqI1D5gZkQ8kjN3VlMy6Y0wabJOvUW4L8B3I2PUAOyj3eneXaMkvC3jKnMZqNCen0/s1600/Day+7+Sign.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfUHmJMu1UMvM278vE2PWi3iKNOCgSWlBy480xfed4PRrrWr418-szIgnbO4yWPMO113UnatRqfVzqI1D5gZkQ8kjN3VlMy6Y0wabJOvUW4L8B3I2PUAOyj3eneXaMkvC3jKnMZqNCen0/s1600/Day+7+Sign.jpg" width="213" /></a> There are cities all over the world known for their beaches. Rio de Janeiro, Sydney, Honolulu, Barcelona, Miami, Los Angeles, and others are cities where the beach is to focus of life and culture. But do you ever think of the beach when you think of New York City? Almost certainly you don't. And you're wrong. New York may not be a world class beach town, but we have long stretches of sand that makes for a great day on the ocean by anyone's standards. And I don't mean a tiny little pebbly cove with beach chairs. New York City actually has about 20 miles of sandy beach to enjoy along the coastal edges of the city. But the biggest by far is a 14-mile long barrier peninsula in Queens, the longest urban beach in the USA: Rockaway Beach. So Day 7 is a day to ditch the summer heat of Manhattan, and get some sand between your toes.<br />
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<b>Day 7</b> - The Rockaways<br />
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<b>Morning</b>: Rockaway Beach is one of New York's favorite summer playgrounds and has been for more almost 200 years. This prime shoreline was once a beachside destination of great fame. The first resort and spa opened in 1833, and all through the 19th century well-to-do New Yorkers took summers and weekends at the dozens of resorts along the beach, reached by new turnpikes, railroads, and ferries. Rockaway Beach even got into the amusement game rivaling Coney Island's attractions with the construction of Rockaway Playland in 1902. The beaches attracted more summer visitors with the construction of tidy bungalows in the 1920s for working class vacationers. The heyday wouldn't last though, and by the time The Ramones write their hit "Rockaway Beach" in 1977, much of The Rockaways had devolved into gritty, forgotten shoreline. Rockaway never went away though, and many more people are re-discovering Queens' shoreline these days and joining longtime fans of the long sandy shore. The past few years have been hard, however, particularly the destruction wrought by Hurricane Sandy in October, 2012. The storm destroyed more than a hundred homes and flooded almost every structure on the peninsula. The boardwalk was destroyed, businesses lost, and seven lives were lost on The Rockaways. The area is recovering, and is back to welcoming visitors every summer who still help provide the bulk of the economic activity in The Rockaways. So despite the damage, a visit is one where most of the amenities and businesses have returned.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hurricane Sandy at Rockaway Beach</td></tr>
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One of the great things about Rockaway Beach is that is accessible by the subway. It's a long ride but because New York's transit doesn't have a zone fare structure, a ride all the way to Rockaway Beach only costs the $2.75 base fare. The route to the Rockaways is via the A train, which has connections from different lines all through Manhattan and Brooklyn. One thing to note about the A train is that it's the only NYC subway line where one line splits and terminates in two different places. So some A trains terminate in Ozone Park, Queens and others in Far Rockaway. In order to get to the beach you have to take a Far Rockaway-bound A train. Once in Rockaway, it's pretty easy to navigate as the streets are all numbered with the prefix "Beach," i.e "Beach 116th Street." The numbers go up as you west. While the A will get you to the beach, I prefer the stretch of beach between Beach 120th and Beach 90th Street, which will require one more subway transfer. When the A gets to Broad Channel, switch to the Rockaway Park shuttle line (the S train) which will pull in on the same track as the A and bring you to one of four stops on the prime piece of beach. The whole journey takes close to 75 minutes, though the final 15 minutes are a scenic one as the A and the S trundle over the causeways crossing Jamaica Bay. There's some cool views of the runway at JFK airport too.<br />
Once you arrive at the beach, there's a lot of great spots to lay down your towel. The boardwalk is still being rebuilt and some construction will continue through 2015 and 2016. Though the boardwalk is expected to be completed between Beach 87th and Beach 107th by July 4th, 2015. The whole boardwalk should reopen by summer 2016. Assuming everything is as it was before, there are concessions along the beach at Beach 97th, Beach 106th, and Beach 116th. The amenities include snacks, drinks, and bicycle rentals. The streets around the beach at Beach 116th and Beach 96th also include new shops and eateries. Rockway Taco is the most famous on Beach 96th. Some of the most surprising shops are the surf shops on Beach 116th and Beach 92nd. It's hard to imagine but Rockaway Beach actually puts NYC on the map of global surfing spots. The beach is along open ocean and big storms mean big waves (by East Coast standards). If the surf is up, the areas between Beach 87th-92nd and Beach 67th-69th are the surf beaches. You can even snag board rentals and lessons if you like from the surf shops.<br />
But if surfing or cycling isn't your thing, just snag a spot on the sand and enjoy the sun. And keep in mind, the beach is really long and people tend to cluster around concessions, parking, and subway stops. So if it's too crowded, like in the photo below from July 4th, just walk a little ways and you'll find a sandy spot.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A busy holiday on Rockaway Beach</td></tr>
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<b>Lunch</b>: Grab some food from the vendors along the boardwalk like Caracas Arepas Bar at B. 106th, Rippers on B. 86th, or the multitude of vendors at B. 97th. If you feel like leaving the beach for lunch, there's places to eat and drink like Rockaway Taco at B. 96th or a jumble of new bar/restaurants on Rockaway Beach Blvd, a block from the beach, between B. 94th and 90th streets. Though I'm mostly likely to take my lunch on my beach towel.<br />
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<b>Afternoon</b>: If you want to continue to lounge on the beach for the rest of the afternoon, go for it! That's my usual plan when I'm at Rockaway. But if you're the type who can't sit still all day, why not head west to the abandoned military installation of Fort Tilden. As you go west on Rockaway peninsula, you eventually leave NYC-run beaches and enter land run by the National Park Service as part of the Gateway National Recreation Area. The houses end and the land becomes entirely beach, dunes, and beach facilities. The Jacob Riis Park Beach and it's enormous beach house and parking lot takes up the whole width of the peninsula. It's a great beach spot, but without the amenities and transit along Rockaway Beach. Just to the west past Riis beach is Fort Tilden. There are two primary ways to reach the old fort. You can take a city bus. Use your metrocard and take the Q22 bus from Rockaway Beach Blvd all the way to the most western stop at B. 169th Street. You can also rent a bicycle along the boardwalk or along some of the main commercial streets. Once the boardwalk is fully reopened in 2016, you'll be able to bike it all the way to B. 126th and then along Rockaway Beach Blvd, through the stately residential streets of the Belle Harbor neighborhood, and ultimately through Riis Beach to the same B. 169th Street entrance. The bike ride is about 4 miles and it should take about a half hour.<br />
Fort Tilden was commissioned in 1917 at the beginning of World War I as a coastal defense post. The installation of large artillery and anti-aircraft gun was to protect NYC from a sea attack. As the 20th century wore on, bigger 16 inch guns were placed at Fort Tilden. During World War II more than 1,000 troops were stationed at the big guns of Fort Tilden and barracks and service buildings were built. In the Cold War, the station housed Nike SAM anti-aircraft missiles. But eventually, the base was closed in 1974 and became part of the National Park Service. Some of the old buildings are used by arts, community, and sports groups from the nearby neighborhoods. But as you leave the open ground of the barracks, the landscape becomes a surreal mix of nature reclaiming the old defenses.
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Along the beach are some of the old community buildings that have been overrun by the sand. For a few blocks, there is the remnants of buildings, streets, hydrants, and more all covered by the sand. As you make your way into the dunes and scrub, you'll find the central dirt path that runs along the gun batteries. The two massive casements were built to protect the 16 inch guns during WWII. You can walk into the casements and see the graffiti and old storage rooms. There's even a walkway up to the top of one of the casements where the view one way is the open ocean and the other is the bay with the Manhattan skyline way in the distance. Further along the path is the abandoned sheds where the one ton rounds were held in storage. Today, they are covered in impressive graffiti works on the remaining walls. <br />
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It's a spooky and beautiful place to explore, where often the only sounds are the waves and shorebirds. It's one of the most unexpected and unique locations in the city, and a striking example of history gradually being covered by the layers of time. After spending an hour or two, head back on the bus or bicycle to Rockaway Beach. There's a growing crowd of bars opening up to grab a drink in a garden area, like Sarya's and The Rock on Rockaway Beach Blvd and B. 92nd Street. But my favorite is old-school Irish pub Connolly's on Cross Bay Blvd, just off the beach. It's a remarkable hybrid of a NYC Irish pub and a beachside Caribbean bar. It's down in a townhouse basement, but decked out with surfboards and other beachy decor. And best of all, the pina coladas are made in a soft serve ice cream machine and some of the best tasting tropical drinks anywhere, including the tropics.<br />
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<b>Dinner</b>: It's time to leave the peninsula and head up to some of Southern Queens' neighborhoods. You can catch the Q53 bus on B. 96th Street or the Q52 on B. 91st and head across the Cross Bay Bridge to the north. You'll pass through one of the most distinctive neighborhood in NYC, Broad Channel, which is entirely located on a marshy island in Jamaica Bay and features many houses built on stilts in the bay. After another bridge you'll be in Howard Beach, one of the most suburban and Italian neighborhoods in the city. The neighborhood's defining feature is the Shellbank Basin, a boat channel running behind the main street, Cross Bay Blvd. The houses lined up against it have private docks and boats, giving Howard Beach the look of coastal Florida and not New York City.<br />
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Take the bus to 163rd Ave--the first stop after the bridge from Broad Channel--and then walk two blocks north on Cross Bay Blvd to Lenny's Clam Bar. Lenny's has become a tradition of my beach trips. Lenny's has bee open more than 40 years and it's a great example of what is called "red sauce" Italian food. Pastas and sauces dominate the menu, the flavors are bright, the seafood is fresh, the portions are huge, the service is friendly, and the prices are reasonable. The crowd is mostly local Italian-Americans from the neighborhood and the New York accents heard at other tables are thick. There's just something great about getting a bottle of house red for $18, tucking into some fantastic baked clams, and having enough pasta to take home for tomorrow's meal too. You don't come here to get elegant Italian, you come to experience the charms of the neighborhood red sauce joint at its best. The calamari, baked clams, and lobster tail fra diavolo are all delicious.<br />
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<b>Evening</b>: Truthfully, there's almost no nightlife in the sleepy suburban streets of Howard Beach. And it's a long way back to Manhattan. So linger over your wine at Lenny's and head home. If you fancy a 25-minute walk, you can head to the Howard Beach A train station. It's located on the other side of Shellbank Basin so you have to walk to the north end of the neighborhood and then double back to 159th Ave to find the shiny new station at the eastern end of the street. The other option is to walk back to 163rd and wait for the buses there to take you 10 minutes up the road to the A train station at Rockaway Blvd. It's a little more than an hour back to Manhattan.<br />
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<script async="" defer="" src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02913900331338800605noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8406436286979342761.post-9196999932756480012015-04-06T21:50:00.001-04:002015-04-06T21:52:36.248-04:00Broadway Alternatives - Rockwood Music Hall Rockwood Music Hall on the Lower East Side is a fantastic small music space and makes for a great casual evening out. There's a ton of great music venues in New York for independent music. But unless you are an expert in the local NYC music scene, it's hard to know what type of evening you're in for. That's what's so great about Rockwood Music Hall. The music emanates from multiple stages in about every style imaginable and if something doesn't tickle your fancy you can move down the block.<br />
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<a name='more'></a> Rockwood Music Hall consists of three performance spaces along Allen Street on the Lower East Side. Seven nights a week all three stages are lit up with talent. Stage 1 is a small bar space with a corner stage. It's the most casual of the stages with acts taking only about 30 to 45 minutes on stage starting around 6:00 PM. It hosts a lot of solo acts and acoustic sets. It's much more like a bar with live music. Stage 2 and 3 are more formal and have cocktail tables set up in front of the stages. Like Stage 1, there's no cover for each act which run around 45 minutes. The sound is great and the tables come right up to edge of the stage. The last and largest space is Stage 3, which is more like a cabaret space. There's often a cover for the sets here but the talent goes up a notch. Each set on the smaller stages passes the hat, so you will have to chip in to see all the music. Drinks are also standard Manhattan upmarket prices with beers coming in around 8 bucks. So while it's not like you get to see everything for free, but it's still an affordable night out.<br />
Finally, the talent is really awesome here. On the night I went, the music went from a lively country set, to a hybrid Indian-Jazz set, and then back to a female-led rock n' roll group. Everyone was polished and skilled. But the best thing is if the music isn't catching you, just mosey over to a different stage or pop out for a snack and then back for a later set. It's a nice way to catch some local talent without having to worry about paying for band you end up not liking. So head downtown and enjoy and swap the big Broadway stages for something smaller and more relaxed.<br />
<script async="" defer="" src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02913900331338800605noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8406436286979342761.post-41055237612529435442015-03-24T07:30:00.000-04:002017-04-06T20:08:13.039-04:0030 Days in NYC (Day 6) - Brownstone Brooklyn & Prospect Park <br />
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On day 6 it's back to Brooklyn to explore some of the historic neighborhoods and major landmarks of the city's most populous borough. Brooklyn was once an independent city with its own government, parks, landmarks, and culture. Brooklyn grew up around its waterfront and the ferries to New York, but with the construction of the Brooklyn Bridge, development multiplied in Brooklyn. Day 6's itinerary covers some of Brooklyn's most notable historic landmarks as well as neighborhoods that have become some of the trendiest in the city. This is an itinerary best done on a weekend to take advantage of programs like the Brooklyn Flea Market.<br />
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<b>DAY 6 - </b>Prospect Park and Brownstone Brooklyn<br />
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<b>Morning:</b> Head to Grand Army Plaza to start the day. Don't confuse this with the landmark of the same name on 5th Ave in Manhattan. Brooklyn's Grand Army Plaza is New York's answer to the Champs-Elysees. It's not quite up to the grandeur of Paris, but it's not too shabby either. As Flatbush Avenue approaches Prospect Park a large traffic circle forms around New York's biggest triumphal arch, the Soldier's and Sailor's Monument. The arch was built to honor the fighters for the Union in the American Civil War and is actually much bigger and grander than the Washington Arch in Manhattan . This is the central intersection of Brooklyn and it also forms the northern entrance to Prospect Park, Brooklyn's 585 acre emerald jewel.<br />
Prospect Park was designed by Calvert Vaux and Frederick Law Olmstead in 1865. Both were in the midst of building their first project, Manhattan's Central Park, when they were brought in to propose a new plan for the new Brooklyn park. They proposed a realignment of the park's borders and designed a sylvan, rustic park in the same style as Central Park. Vaux and Olmstead's parks heavily borrowed from nature and shunned formal architecture. In Manhattan, they had been forced to create many small natural spaces but in Brooklyn they amplified their design scheme and created three major landscapes: a large lake and shoreline, a rugged woodland, and the first sight when you enter Prospect Park the Long Meadow. The designer's themselves thought the Prospect Park design superior to Central Park and many New Yorkers agree. Have a walk through the meadow, which undulates and winds almost a mile down the spine of the park. Just past the picnic house on the right, you'll see a lake and stream on the left side of the meadow. Cross the rustic Esdale Bridge into the Ravine. This is a rugged, rocky, hilly forest built onto the natural glacial hills of Long island. These hills provided a line of defense during the Revolutionary War and George Washington led the ill-fated Battle of Long Island among these hills in Prospect Park and the surrounding neighborhoods. The Ravine is easy to get lost in so stick to following the stream downriver through the woods. Eventually you'll reach the beautiful Prospect Park Boathouse. From here you can walk behind the boathouse and exit the park.<br />
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When you exit the park, find Flatbush Avenue where it intersects with the park and Empire Blvd. Across Flatbush Ave from the park is the Brooklyn Botanic Garden. This land was originally part of the proposed site of Prospect Park, but Vaux suggested the park be moved slightly west to avoid incorporating Flatbush Ave into the park itself. So today, the gardens are across the street from the park. One construction note, the southern entrance at Flatbush and Empire is closed for renovations until June 2015 so for now you'll have to walk along the east side of the garden on Washington Ave to reach the east entrance.<br />
The larger NY Botanic Gardens are in The Bronx, but I personally like the Brooklyn Botanic Gardens even better. The more compact layout provides nonstop beauty, especially in the Spring when lilacs, magnolias, and peonies are at their peak. But the most famous attraction at the BBG is the Cherry Blossom Festival. Not only are the grounds filled with flowering cherry trees, but the traditional Japanese pond and garden creates a lush, transporting experience. Every year, the Sakura Matsuri festival weekend is the highlight of the year at BBG if you're in town in late April. Exit at the north end of the garden onto Eastern Parkway. Immediately on the right is the imposing classical entrance to the Brooklyn Museum, Brooklyn's answer to the Metropolitan Museum. The building is lovely, but I generally skip the museum since much of the same eras and types of art are covered better in Manhattan's museums. But if there's an exhibit that piques your interest, go in and check it out.<br />
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<b>Lunch:</b> Prospect Heights and Crown Heights are the neighborhoods across the street from the BBG and Brooklyn Museum. Washington Ave, Franklin Ave, and Vanderbilt Ave are the main commercial strips that are home to most of the food options in the area. These areas are quickly gentrifying and have increasingly sophisticated food options. But Eastern Parkway is also home to a NYC Labor Day tradition, the West Indian parade, and so the food of the Caribbean is easy to find. Just up Washington less than a block is The Islands. A shoebox sized Caribbean eatery with a steep stair leading to a few tables in a loft space. The lunch portions are plenty big enough, and if the weather's nice, the steps of the Brooklyn Museum make a good seating area for takeaway. Meanwhile on Franklin Ave, just past St. Mark's is Kelso, a simple, friendly, bare-bones Panamanian restaurant and bar. The next block on Franklin is Bergen Street, take a left to visit the Berg'n food hall, featuring favorite food vendors from the Brooklyn Flea Market including Pizza Moto and the famous ramen noodle bun burger. Berg'n is open all year, but on weekends from November to March an attached building is home to the Brooklyn Flea Market. It's the biggest and best local craft and vintage market in the city If you're there when the market's open, it's an awesome shopping experience and a great way to get something unique to take home as a memory of NYC. If none of those strike your fancy, just head over to Washington Ave and take a stroll until you find something that hits the spot. Particularly famous on this stretch is the venerable diner Tom's, one of the most beloved traditional breakfast and lunch spots in the city. It's a go-to for old timey drinks like egg creams. Just be ready to wait for a table on the weekend.<br />
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<b>Afternoon: </b>The three neighborhoods north of Fulton Street are Fort Greene, Clinton Hill, and Bedford-Stuvesant (Bed-Stuy). I personally find these neighborhoods to be the most quintessentially scenic and historic neighborhoods in New York City. When you imagine living in New York, it is these classic brownstone blocks that spring to mind. These districts were some of the most prestigious in Brooklyn in the decades at the end of the 19th century. Brownstones were built to house well-to-do professionals and the most successful businessmen built mansions along many of the blocks. In the 20th century, the neighborhoods became the largest district of African-American residents in the city, many fleeing the overcrowded tenements of Harlem. Great cultural figures like Notorious B.I.G., Spike Lee, Chris Rock, Mos Def, former NY Governor David Patterson, Jay-Z, Lena Horne, Richie Havens, and many more all lived in the area. Michael Jordan was born at the former Cumberland Hospital in Fort Greene. But these days, many of the African-American residents of the neighborhood have been leaving, often heading to the South where more jobs and cheaper homes offer opportunity. Meanwhile, new more wealthy residents--often White, but not always--take their place. All the while, the graceful homes remain unchanged and often renovated to original splendor.<br />
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<a href="https://instagram.com/p/utXdRntCQl/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_top">A photo posted by Shawn (@nytourguy)</a> on <time datetime="2014-10-28T20:01:57+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Oct 28, 2014 at 1:01pm PDT</time></div>
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If you have time, you could walk or subway east to the heart of Bed-Stuy. Hancock Street makes a particularly nice walk. But most likely, you'll only have time for Clinton Hill and Fort Greene. So walk west on Fulton Street to Clinton Ave and take a right. Clinton Ave was one of the streets of mansions built in the late 19th century, which largely survive. Many feature beautiful porches and front gardens. Take Clinton two blocks until you reach Lafayette Ave and take a left. One block to the left is a schoolyard that doubles on warm Saturdays as the home of the Brooklyn Flea. I mentioned their winter home in Crown Heights, but if you're around in the spring, summer, or fall then the flea is here every Saturday. It's easily worth an hour to browse the vendors selling cool antiques, crafts, artisan goods, and food. Continuing on Lafayette brings you into Fort Greene. When you reach Portland Ave, take a right. This block of Portland has often been named the best block in the whole city and I find a hard time disagreeing. It's perfectly preserved and magnificent. The grand stoops perfectly frame the block and the huge london plane trees cover the street. Best of all for the residents, at the end of the block is Fort Greene Park.<br />
The high ground of the park was a military post dating back to the Revolutionary War. As Brooklyn grew and the need for green space became greater, the fort was made Brooklyn's second park in 1847. Vaux and Olmstead would redesign the park 50 years late. The most notable feature is the memorial column standing on the highest point in the center of the small park. The Prison Ship Martyr's Monument remembers the lives lost as prisoners of Great Britain during the Revolutionary War. Prisoners were locked in ships docked down the hill at Wallabout Bay--current home of the Brooklyn Navy Yard--and prisoners were neglected and mistreated. In the end, more than 10,000 American prisoners lost their lives on those ships, more than all the American lives lost in every battle of the war combined. The memorial remembers their sacrifice and houses many of the unidentified remains. It's poignant that the view from the monument looks out to the World Trade Center rising in the distance, the city's other tragic memorial. <br />
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<b>Dinner</b>: There's lots of great options in Fort Greene. Restaurants tend to huddle on the few commercial strips in the neighborhood. Myrtle Ave, the norther border of Fort Greene Park, has a few favorites including Lulu & Po one block east of the park. DeKalb Ave on the south side of the park is stocked with eateries serving American, French, Italian, Middle Eastern, and Latin east of the park. Fulton Street also hums with eateries, including the awesome Habana Outpost, an environmental and community conscious garden space with awesome Mexican and Cuban food.<br />
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<b>Evening</b>: Just a few blocks away lie Brooklyn's two most prominent performance spaces, one very old and one brand new. On Lafayette Ave and St. Felix Street is the Brooklyn Academy of Music (BAM), the oldest cultural institution in New York City. Their offerings are diverse. They've been known for their modern dance programs over the recent decades, especially incorporating African influences. They offer independent and historical film screenings. The theater is often the best in New York for performances of classic plays. BAMCafe is open for drinks and free live music on Friday and Saturday nights. The main building, from 1908, is a stunning, ornate structure and worth walk by even if you're not seeing a performance. Two blocks south of Atlantic Ave is Brooklyn's new marquee landmark, Barclay's Center. The new arena opened in 2012 and is home to the Brooklyn Nets basketball team, as well as the New York Islanders hockey team starting in fall of 2015. In addition, there's lots of major concerts and events that happen there, particular in summer when hockey and basketball is in their off-season.<br />
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<script async="" defer="" src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02913900331338800605noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8406436286979342761.post-64167358291753460252015-03-10T10:56:00.000-04:002017-04-06T20:07:44.802-04:0030 Days in NYC (Day 5) - Midtown Manhattan II<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlzFF93H1ParHwcRdh5hnEpB0NNssPRciO9IUs8RhY3MWkY9ZcfUQCGaSNJbQCmKL2jTPGP__8Vg7BnUyOrMefYnWZJOpGxz9n0Vz3e4dYTuBxv5WY3xUBkdYmQZfAZrOmzt99V3Uzq74/s1600/Day+5+Sign.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlzFF93H1ParHwcRdh5hnEpB0NNssPRciO9IUs8RhY3MWkY9ZcfUQCGaSNJbQCmKL2jTPGP__8Vg7BnUyOrMefYnWZJOpGxz9n0Vz3e4dYTuBxv5WY3xUBkdYmQZfAZrOmzt99V3Uzq74/s1600/Day+5+Sign.jpg" width="213" /></a> Day 3's activities took in the stretch of Midtown south of 42nd Street. Now, it's time to partner that with the stretch of Midtown north. This is the busiest business district in North America and is always jammed with crowds of workers and tourists. Weekdays often mean shorter lines at museums and attractions, but they also mean surges of office workers on the sidewalks in the morning and evening rush hour, and especially around lunch. So just be wary of those lunch crowds and you'll be all set. Grab a hearty breakfast before setting out and head over to Rockefeller Center<br />
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<b>DAY 5 - </b>Midtown North<br />
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<b>Morning: </b>Start the day exploring Rockefeller Center. This is one of the greatest architectural treasures of New York City. The complex cover three blocks between 51st and 48th Streets and was built during the depths of the Great Depression. It's a masterpiece of understated Art Deco design, but is also one of the most forward-thinking commercial spaces ever built. Rockefeller Center was built so that it's buildings would all gracefully fit together. It was designed with public promenades and gardens, and even some private gardens on rooftops. There's places to sit, shops to visit, and a large underground concourse of shops and services. It was built with truck loading bays and subway connections underground so the sidewalks aren't quite as packed with trucks and office workers as other parts of Midtown. And since it opened in 1933, it has housed NBC studios. If you arrive before 9 AM, you'll be able to check out the broadcast of <i>Today</i> that usually wraps up with a number of outdoor segments. I've gone by around 9:00 before and always found there to be lots of space from which to watch the last few segments as they're broadcast live to the whole East Coast. Inside the GE Building (aka 30 Rock) there is the studios of <i>The Tonight Show, NBC Nightly News, Saturday Night Live</i>, and other NBC classics. There are studio tours offered but it's hard to know exactly what you'll see on the tour. Tours obviously don't get into studios that are in use. So it can be fun or a disappointment depending on what you see. More reliable is the tour of Radio City Music Hall, which is a world icon of Art Deco and coordinated kicking. The theater is sparklingly restored and the opportunity to see it without seeing a show is worthwhile. Tours run every half hour and take a little more than an hour.<br />
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<a href="https://instagram.com/p/sVz5D2NCQP/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_top">A photo posted by Shawn (@nytourguy)</a> on <time datetime="2014-08-30T23:25:51+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Aug 30, 2014 at 4:25pm PDT</time></div>
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Once you've had a fill of Rockefeller Center and any tours you choose to do there, head up to 53rd Street for one if New York's most famous cultural anchors, the Museum of Modern Art. While my art preferences lead me more to the Metropolitan Museum or Frick Gallery, it's hard to deny that this is the most globally significant art collection in New York. The Met is amazing, but Europe's museums have wider, deeper, and more start-studded collections of European masters and ancient antiquity. But no one can match the MoMA's collection of late 19th- and 20th century art. Andy Warhol's "Campbell's Soup Cans" is there. So is Salvador Dali's "Persistence of Memory," Rousseau's "The Dream," Jasper John's "Flag," and of course Van Gogh's "The Starry Night." It's the best greatest hits collection in the modern art world. Luckily, the museum doesn't take too long to see. A few hours is enough to take in the bulk of the museum and see the most famous pieces. And if you're anything like me, a museum trip needs a rest afterwards.<br />
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<b>Lunch:</b> The heart of Midtown isn't the best place for lunch. There's not many casual places, though there are plenty of delis, takeout joints, and street carts. In fact, the city's original and most famous Halal Guys food cart is at the end of the block on 6th Ave. Look for the guys in the yellow shirts and a long line. If the weather's nice, it's a classic NYC lunch al fresco sitting on any improvised seat you can find. Heck, any of the food carts are gonna be pretty good around 6th Ave, and options include korean noodles, schnitzel, crepes, and mexican barbecue, steaks, and lots more. If the weather's no good and you just want a simple lunch on the run, head back to Rockefeller Center and head underground to the concourse level where there are a lot of options for a soup, salad, or sandwich. On the other hand, if you want a serious dining experience for lunch, don't stray from the museum at all and head into the Bar Room at The Modern, the museum's on-site restaurant. The michelin starred restaurant's bar room is livelier and more relaxed, but still makes a late lunch seem like a special meal. It will hit the budget harder, but it makes a great midday splurge.<br />
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<b>Afternoon</b>: The afternoon will be a short one, but you should have time for a walk up and down 5th Avenue. Start by heading into St. Patrick's Cathedral. St. Patrick's was built in 1879 and was modeled after many of the great cathedrals of Europe. It also announced the Catholic Church's ascendance in New York's culture and society in an era when Catholics, and particularly Irish immigrants, were considered lesser citizens by many in the country. The cathedral isn't the biggest or grandest church in the world, but it's a beautiful and graceful space. And it is wonderfully restful to suddenly have the noise and hubbub of Midtown removed and a quiet, holy space fill its place. Though walking through the doors back onto the honking chaos of 5th Ave is a jarring transition. 100 years ago, 5th Avenue was lined with the grand mansions of the wealthiest families in America, but their houses were replaced by commercial towers and fine shops in more recent decades. Most people know 5th Ave as the city's premiere high-end shopping district. And while Versace and Harry Winston still line the street, they now share space with Tommy Hilfiger, Abercrombie & Fitch, H&M, and Hollister. Tiffany's remains the most venerable store on the strip at 5th and 57th Street. The staff are always friendly, even to those just coming in to gawk. But for me, the true heart of fashion on 5th remains Bergdorf Goodman on 58th Street and 5th. The windows are always stunning, especially at Christmas and the store oozes old elegance. NYC's venerable toy store F.A.O Schwarz is right across the street for the kids or kids at heart.<br />
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<b>Evening</b>: The point of the day's late lunch was to stay sated through the evening's entertainment. Tonight is the night for Broadway. There are 39 Broadway theaters in New York, mostly clustered around Times Square. A Broadway theater is simply a theater with more than 500 seats, and they are the biggest budgets and highest production values of any theaters in the country. It's the dream of every stage actor to reach Broadway's stages. And no matter the show, it doesn't get more glamorous and professional than the Great White Way. The big musical shows are the most popular, but don't overlook the straight plays that often play in smaller theaters and sometime feature famous stars in the lead roles. For instance, my most recent Broadway show featured Daniel Radcliffe. If there's a particular show you want to see, it's best to buy tickets in advance. But if you're willing to wing it, there's the TKTS booth in Times Square at 47th Street. The ticket window sells the day's leftover tickets from 3 PM up until curtain, and usually for 30%-50% off face value. There's also the TodayTix app that sells discounted tickets for same-day and even same-week tickets. Curtain is typically at 8 PM so there's time to freshen up before the show. After all, it may be acceptable to wear jeans and a t-shirt to Broadway these days, but it's way more fun to dress up!<br />
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<b>Night</b>: After the show, start by wandering into Times Square. Most visitors make the mistake of seeing Times Square first thing when they arrive. It's the Crossroads of the World after all (maybe not, but it certainly is the crossroads of New York). And while Times Square is an impressive sight, it's also incredibly crowded and filled with people endlessly hassling tourists for tours, comedy shows, demo CDs, and other schemes to separate you from your money. Most New Yorkers have a low-opinion of Times Square as a place that's filled only with commercialism, tourists, and offices. But you know what? Everyone who visits New York should see Times Square! It's a one-of-a-kind sight and when it's lit up at night and the post-theater crowd is milling around churning through the side streets is when Times Square is at it's hectic best. After seeing Times Square, head west to the neighborhood of Hell's Kitchen for some after theater drinks and snacks. Hell's Kitchen is an old waterfront Irish neighborhood that has been transformed by it's proximity to the new, less seedy Times Square. Hell's Kitchen bustles with bars and restaurants, especially along 9th Ave. Kashkaval Garden on 9th between 56th and 55th makes a great spot for affordable fondue, tapas, and wine. Pulperia on 9th and 46th is a great spot for Latin fare and cocktails. Ardesia on 52nd (just west of 10th) and Casellula on 52nd (just west of 9th) make for great wine and small plates options. And if you're a beer maven, The Pony Bar on 45th and 10th is one of the craft beer landmarks of New York. There's lots of great casual options in the neighborhood so even without a plan, you'll have a great night.
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<script async="" defer="" src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02913900331338800605noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8406436286979342761.post-53413040903373499062015-02-28T13:37:00.002-05:002015-02-28T13:37:21.564-05:00Puttin' on the Ritz The Lower East Side was a place that the multitudes came for a new life. They stormed the shores of New York harbor on ships from Hamburg, Liverpool, Cork, Palermo, Naples, and many others. And for a time, the greatest number were fleeing the lands of Eastern Europe. Jewish immigrants from all over the Russian Empire joined the rest of Europe in one of the great migrations of modern time. And they crowded themselves into Lower Manhattan. So thick they were that a square mile of the neighborhood was home to 500,000 residents. Over the generations these families would rise up out of the slums, but there were a lucky few who made it big. One of these lucky few was a young man who came with his family from the Russian Empire in 1893. His name was Israel Baline, but the world knows him as Irving Berlin.<br />
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<a name='more'></a> It's not entirely sure where Berlin was born, but it was during the Russian Empire's systematic abuses of Jewish residents that his family joined the cascade of refugees travelling to the US. His father was a cantor, and though he couldn't get a job as a cantor in New York, he still gave a great love of music to his son Israel. His father's death when he was 13 forced young Izzy into the same situation so many immigrant children found themselves in, forced to work to support the family.<br />
Izzy was one of the many hordes of young children in Manhattan's slums working as newsboys and bootblacks on the streets. Eventually, as a teenager he would turn to singing songs on the street or in Bowery dives for change. He had left the family and was living in cheap flophouses. He had little education and so turned his full efforts to a music career. His first proper job was at the age of 16 at a music hall in Union Square. He would play pieces of sheet music on a piano that customers were interested in buying. He slowly began learning on piano, though throughout his career he would only ever be able to play in one key. When he turned 18 is when his career started taking off from a very unlikely launch pad: Chinatown.<br />
New York's Chinatown of the early 1900s was nothing like today. It wasn't the bustle of markets and shops patronized by Chinese families of today, but instead a seedy district of all male Chinese laborers, bawdy restaurants, taverns, and drug dens. It was during this time that Chinese tongs battle for control of the vice industry and next door Doyers Street would earn the nickname "The Bloody Angle." But it wasn't only the Chinese running and patronizing the gin joints and dance halls. Many New Yorkers and tourists alike were lured by the image of the exotic orient. Food and entertainment often catered to the broad stereotypes outsiders had of Chinese culture with over the top decor and menu items like chop suey and moo goo gai pan--dishes not found in China by the way. It was at the end of Pell Street, in this milieu of entertainment and exoticism, that a fellow Russian Jew and corrupt Tammany Hall thug named Mike Salter ran a saloon called the Pelham Cafe.<br />
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Salter was no nameless thug, he was the chef lieutenant of Big Tom Foley, the Tammany bigwig for whom Foley Square nearby is named. Salter's diligence in assuring that only Tammany votes were cast at the ballot made him a valuable man, and the Pelham was his reward. He hosted the big names of high and low society, and music and drink were always flowing. Izzy was hired as a singing waiter and he would team up with the house pianist to rework the lyrics to popular songs into vulgar comedic versions. These "blue" versions became big draws and Izzy was one of the highlights of a visit to the Pelham.<br />
The Pelham became a favorite of one of the Bowery's most unique characters, Chuck Connors. Chuck was known as a the "Mayor of Chinatown" and he had long been a regular in the tiny streets of the neighborhood. He was a lifelong grifter, showman, con-artist, and entertainer. He would lead tours through the "underbelly" of Chinatown that were mostly staged opium dens, sex slaves, and knife fights that he arranged through his Chinatown friends. Often the tours would end at the Pelham, where the patrons could go upstairs for a view of supposed prostitute "Chinatown Gertie" who put on a kimono and an opium pipe and charged 50 cents for a peek through the window, and then would split the proceeds with Connors. The crowd always enjoyed Izzy's singing and eventually the Pelham would attract some very high end clientele, including Connors leading British Royal, and naval admiral Prince Louis of Brattenberg along with New York financier August Belmont on a trip to Chinatown's drug dens where they heard Izzy sing. It was in this time that Izzy's first song would be published. A cheesy romp called "Marie from Sunny Italy" that earned him 37 cents. On the sheet music his name appeared as I. Berlin. Within a few years, Berlin would begin catching the ear of serious music producers and he would get new jobs in saloons and working with more songwriters. At the age of 20, Berlin's song "Alexander's Ragtime Band" would become an immense national sensation and his career would leave the dumps of the Bowery behind.<br />
Berlin's musicianship would remain limited his entire career, but his songwriting became a new standard for American music. He would write songs in the 1910s for Venron and Irene Castle, the most popular dance duo in the country. He wrote songs for the <i>Ziegfeld Follies. </i>He would write songs for the armed forces during WWI and in the 1920s would establish himself at the Music Box Theater on Broadway, which would serve as a platform for revues of his songs. He wrote ballads of love and simple sentiment, expressed in a way that seemed to come from a place of deep understanding. As he put it, his songs tried to "reach the heart of the average American, not the highbrow nor the lowbrow but that vast intermediate crew which is the real soul of the country."<br />
One of Berlin's biggest hits was "Puttin' on the Ritz" from 1930. The song would be performed by Harry Richman and later Clark Gable, but didn't become really famous until 1946 when it was featured the the Fred Astaire film <i>Blue Skies</i>. The 1946 version has lyrics referencing the well-to-do parading up and down Park Avenue, but the original lyrics feature instead the residents of Harlem getting dressed to the nines and stepping out on Lenox Avenue. Either way, the song is instantly recognizable from its syncopated and oddly structured lyrics where each verse has its stresses on an unexpected note. It's jarring and unpredictable and finally resolves itself at the end of each verse with a pause, and the lyrics "puttin' on the ritz" in perfect rhythm. The song is a standard of stage, screen, and new york nightlife. It's an ode to stepping out and hitting the town. And no matter which version you prefer, that unmistakable melody gets stuck in your head the rest of the day every time you walk down the street.<br />
Irving Berlin is one of the great tales of immigrant New York. A kid who came up from the gutters to define what it meant to be American. It seems only fitting that the man who wrote "God Bless America" would be a Jewish kid who got his start in a Chinatown saloon. Enjoy this amazing clip of Harry Richman performing the original 1930 number.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/pQxLMWhb_Ww?rel=0" width="480"></iframe>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02913900331338800605noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8406436286979342761.post-60646207666720560682015-02-24T08:00:00.000-05:002017-04-06T20:07:24.157-04:0030 Days in NYC (Day 4) - Staten Island <br />
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So far, the first three days have taken in some classic sights of the city. Even the trip to Brooklyn Heights doesn't venture too far off the beaten track. So now that you've gotten your feet under you, it's time to check out New York's forgotten borough. Day 4 heads to Staten Island. This day's itinerary will be written with an eye to the future however. By summer of 2017, the shoreline of Staten Island will be very different.<br />
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<b>Day 4 </b>- Staten Island<br />
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<b>Morning</b>: Staten Island is often considered the forgotten borough of New York. The island's busiest hub is five miles across the harbor from Lower Manhattan. The only connections to the rest of NYC are the Verrazano Bridge to Brooklyn and the Staten Island Ferry to Manhattan. In fact, there are three bridges to New Jersey, making the island much more connected to the nearby state than the rest of its own city. In addition, the island is much more suburban than the rest of the city. More cars, fewer apartments, and more single-family homes. But there's still some awesome coastline and some great food to be had, so it's time to hop on the ferry,<br />
The Staten Island Ferry is one of my indispensable New York experiences. There's plenty of nice harbor tours, but the ferry is truly part of the commute of tens of thousands of Staten Islanders. It's a blue-collar kind of commute. The snack bar reaches the height of its culinary prowess with bags of popcorn. Best of all, the city-operated boat doesn't need to pay liquor taxes, so $3.50 tallboys of Budwesier make this one of the best floating bars in America. The ferry used to carry a small fee, but political protest by Staten Islanders in the 90s led to the fare being eliminated. So now, one of the most beautiful ferry rides in the world is free for all passengers. The ride begins at Whitehall Terminal at the southern tip of Manhattan. My strategy on the ferry has always been to ignore the crowds going to the front decks and west railings and instead to park myself on the rear decks where you first board the ferry. There are multiple decks and any of them will do, though the bottom deck is almost always nearly empty. Standing on the back deck, the city recedes slowly from view. The skyscrapers that begin as looming behemoths gradually shrink. Before long the Statue of Liberty comes alongside the ferry and the reward for waiting to see her is no jostling crowd to compete with for the great views.
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On the other side of the harbor lies the seaside neighborhood of St. George, the small commercial hub of Staten Island. There's currently not much going on at St. George, but that's all about to change. The north shore adjacent to the ferry terminal is the future site of the Empire Outlets and New York Wheel. The outlet mall is scheduled to open in 2016 and I would bet it will become in immediate hit. Visitors to New York from outside the country often spend hours travelling to the outlet malls outside the city and will now have a much more convenient option. Not to mention, Staten Islanders will probably be attracted to the low priced shops, especially located so close to their commutes. But the real daring development is the New York Wheel.<br />
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At 625 feet tall, the wheel will be the world's tallest when it opens in 2017. Though Dubai is currently building an even taller version scheduled for a 2018 opening. But no matter, the wheel would immediately become Staten Island's dominant feature. It will not only be taller than any SI building, but taller than the top of Todt Hill, which at 401 feet is actually the tallest peak on the Atlantic coastline of the U.S. south of Maine. With unimpeded views across the harbor and out to sea, the wheel is going to have some incredible vistas. And since many visitors are already riding the Staten Island Ferry, it shouldn't take too much convincing to draw crowds to the wheel right next to the ferry terminal. I'm really excited about it, and it will make a great first stop in S.I. once it opens in two years time.<br />
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<b>Lunch</b>: Most visitors will never see anything of S.I. except what is right next to the ferry. But Staten Island covers 50 square miles or so. So let's grab a bus and see some more of the island. There is an above-ground subway line (The Staten Island Railway) but it doesn't really pass by the most interesting parts of the island. So city buses make a good way to get around, especially since the metrocard works on S.I. buses and every other bus in the city. Most lines on Staten Island don't run more than every half hour though. So make use of the MTA's Bustime app or website, which give you real time data on where buses are on the road. Happily, at the ferry terminal the buses leave on schedule. So find the S51 bus and hop aboard. You will pass through the neighborhoods of Stapleton, Clifton, and Rosebank before either skirting or passing through Fort Wadsworth. Once the bus has passed under the highway and left Fort Wadsworth, exit at Lily Pond Ave and McLean Ave. Two blocks south on Lily Pond Ave is tiny Galesville Court, and at the end of the short dead end is Basilio Inn.<br />
Staten Island is almost 30% Italian-American, the largest percentage of any county in the country. In particular, neighborhoods on the South Shore are almost entirely Italian-American. So it's no surprise that Italian food is the island's specialty. Basilio Inn is one of the the island's oldest Italian eateries. The 1921 restaurant is a bit like dining at someone's home. The house sits at the end of a short dead end and despite the big sign, doesn't really seem like a restaurant as you approach it. And while the dining room is standard restaurant look, the back garden is the real winner. The garden is filled with vegetables, herbs, and grapes that go straight to the kitchen and into your glass or plate. And the bocce courts date back to the old days when locals would gather for food, wine, and a game in the yard. In short, it's Staten Island at its best: humble, unassuming, unchanging, and delicious.<br />
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<b>Afternoon:</b> It's only a 10-minute walk from Basilio to the ocean. Head south on Lily Pond Ave and turn onto Ocean Ave. Walk past the quaint houses and bungalows until you hit the sand of South Beach. This is no slouch of an urban beach. The beach is lined by open ocean on one side and a 2 mile boardwalk on the other. It's a center of summer on Staten Island as cool water and fun events draw locals from every neighborhood all summer long. Looming to the left is the massive span of the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge, the longest suspension bridge in the U.S. It marks the entrance the the protected waters of New York Harbor, and marks the moment when Staten Island first became connected to the rest of the city when it opened in 1964. <br />
By walking up to the base of the bridge, you will have entered Fort Wadsworth. This former military base dates back to the war of 1812 and now belongs to the National Park Service as part of the Gateway National Recreation Area. The grounds are open year-round until dusk and make a great spot to explore the shore, and the defunct military structures. The highlight is the Civil War era fort, Battery Weed. It hugs the shoreline in the shadow of the bridge and provides a dramatic photo spot from the bluff above.<br />
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<a href="https://instagram.com/p/vMxKxulP_Z/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_top">A photo posted by igotdib (@igotdib)</a> on <time datetime="2014-11-10T00:43:04+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Nov 9, 2014 at 4:43pm PST</time></div>
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The visitors center at Fort Wadsworth is closed indefinitely, but there are signs to help you learn and find your way as you wander the grounds. Make sure to check out Mont Sec Avenue, where many of the officer's homes were located. Eventually you'll make your way to the north gate on Bay Street and head into the neighborhood of Shore Acres. The area was first developed as a gated, upscale community in the 1930s. There's even evidence of the old gates on Bay Road and Shore Acres Road. But today, the area contains a lot of Staten Island's unimpressive housing stock. Lots of plain mid-century suburban homes, shoddy looking duplexes, and gaudy mansions. There are, however, some of the Victorian houses that sometimes gives Staten Island a look of San Francisco-East, especially along Belair Road, Hope Ave, Tompkins Ave, and Bay Street. It's worth a wander around these old streets for some of Staten Island's more historic and stately homes. At the north end of the neighborhood is Hylan Boulevard, head to the right on Hylan towards the harbor.<br />
At the end of Hylan Street is the Alice Austen House Museum. The museum represents a compelling confluence of history as one of the oldest homes in the five boroughs as well as the home of photographer Alice Austen. The home was originally a one room Dutch farmhouse from 1690, but the Austen family extended it to more sizable gothic proportions in the mid-19th century. Alice lived there much of her life and photography was her passion. She was a very talented amateur in the days when being a photographer was far more labor intensive than choosing the right instagram filter. Her work is a wonderful chronicle of life in New York and on Staten Island in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. And her house is a beautiful relic and peaceful Eden on the waters of the Narrows.<br />
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<a href="https://instagram.com/p/kIzC0wkO_B/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_top">A photo posted by Ann Marie McDonnell (@amcdonnell19)</a> on <time datetime="2014-02-08T01:57:10+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Feb 7, 2014 at 5:57pm PST</time></div>
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<b>Dinner: </b>There's a few options for dinner. One is to stay in Rosebank, the neighborhood north of Shore Acres. The walk from Alice Austen House along Edgewater Street is one of the few true working waterfronts left in NYC. Nautical supply stores remain open and the New York Harbor pilots who steer the massive container ships through the harbor are based here. But it's not charming. The buildings are often abandoned and unkempt. Amazingly, after 10 minutes you'll see a Hess Station and in a three story rowhouse next door on Bay Street is Zest, a charming French brasserie. The garden is one of the prettiest backyard dining experiences in the city and the menu would put some Manhattan French spots to shame. Across the street is Maizal if you want a more upscale take on the food of Staten Island's large Mexican immigrant community.<br />
If that's not your scene, head back to St. George via the S51 bus or the Staten Island Railroad from the nearby Clifton station. Once back in hilly St. George, there's a couple of good options. Across the street from the county courthouse is Beso, a nice option for Spanish tapas on Schuyler Street. And if you haven't had your fill of Staten Island's local Italian cooking, head to Enoteca Maria on Hyatt Street, just up the hill from Borough Hall. Here the claim to fame is that a different Italian Nonna (grandma) from the island makes dinner every night.<br />
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<b>Evening</b>: Staten Island isn't known for nightlife. The nearby St. George theater is a beautiful restored historic theater but their offerings are sporadic. The better bet is to get to the outlet shopping you missed out on during the day. After all, it doesn't make sense to carry your shopping bags with you all day. Better to do the shopping last thing. But for a finale, you've got to ride the ferry back to Manhattan. Just enjoy the twinkling lights of the Lower Manhattan skyline as the ferry slides closer to Whitehall slip. Back to reality.<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02913900331338800605noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8406436286979342761.post-50948848932637477842015-02-14T19:47:00.000-05:002015-02-14T21:08:39.497-05:00How to navigate short-term rentals in NYC The vacation rental business is booming New York City. Record numbers of tourists have been flocking to New York City every year, <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2015/02/02/nyregion/as-tourism-record-is-set-new-york-city-awaits-more-chinese-visitors.html?_r=0" target="_blank">56.4 million</a> in 2014 according to the city's tourism agency NYC & Co. And while hotel construction has kept up with the new arrivals, hotel rates continue to be some of the highest in the world, with an average room often running more than <a href="http://mycrains.crainsnewyork.com/stats-and-the-city/2014/tourism/hotels-rebound" target="_blank">$300/night</a>. The booming numbers of visitors has led to a surge in the market for short-term apartment rentals, as visitors look to find less costly alternatives to hotels.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoyB8NsVz3rS-0e0L9ZeCvItaI6sKuSZDWT92orRQvTrrw_iviHFeBPyJYVE3BC4sf8MWy7TYML5w9hng67pnbRdv9CCPez7IC485G-7VZ-561GUpagaj1EqfLihxd_Jbqbyh5LjlZIbU/s1600/How+to+Vacation+Rental+Sign.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoyB8NsVz3rS-0e0L9ZeCvItaI6sKuSZDWT92orRQvTrrw_iviHFeBPyJYVE3BC4sf8MWy7TYML5w9hng67pnbRdv9CCPez7IC485G-7VZ-561GUpagaj1EqfLihxd_Jbqbyh5LjlZIbU/s1600/How+to+Vacation+Rental+Sign.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a> There's a lot of appeal to these kinds of accommodations for many travelers. Large groups of family or friends are often forced to book multiple hotel rooms, significantly expanding the cost of a trip. Families with more than two kids feel the extra burden on the checkbook particularly acutely. So cost is a major factor in how popular vacation rentals are. Apartments also come with more residential amenities like full kitchens and living rooms with places to sit. This is a big benefit for visitors staying for more than a few days and for those who want to save some money by having some meals or snacks at home. Finally, there's the experience of staying in an apartment. It isn't just the sights of New York that are iconic, but the lifestyle. Everything from the local pubs, quaint coffee shops, tree-lined blocks of high stoops, and cups of soup at the deli have entered public consciousness through TV and movies. The experience of not just being in New York, but in some sense being a New Yorker are big draws for people visiting the city. Not to mention that staying in a residential area gives much greater access to grocers, bars, restaurants, shops, and some of the amenities that draw people to the city. There's a lot of good reasons to ditch the hotel and stay in an apartment. There's a catch though.<br />
In New York City, it's almost always illegal.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a> Capital New York recently gave a succinct summary of New York State law regarding short term rentals in a February, 10 2015 <a href="http://www.capitalnewyork.com/article/city-hall/2015/02/8562038/scraped-airbnb-data-shows-58-listings-possibly-illegal" target="_blank">article</a>. It wrote, "Under state law, it is illegal to lease most homes--with the exception of one- and two- family residences--for periods of less than 30 days when the owner or tenant is not present." Essentially that means there are two legal options: rent a bedroom in someone else's apartment while they are home, or rent part of a private home that has less than three apartment units inside.<br />
Illegal short-term rentals have become one of the most passionate issues in New York City in the past two years, and like most passions in New York City, it has to do with quality of life and housing costs. Airbnb alone lists more than 27,000 rentals on its website in New York City. Critics of the practice say that by taking these apartments, mostly clustered in Manhattan and North Brooklyn, and taking them out of the market and away from locals who would rent them it diminishes the amount of already scarce housing and drives up rents. Many also point to the lack of security inherent in having different groups of visitors given keys to a residential building every week. And many simply dislike the idea of not having neighbors that they can get to know and trust. Proponents of short-term rentals point out how it can create income for those renting out a room or an apartment and help them afford to stay in an expensive city. Not to mention many tourists appreciate the local help and perspective gained from staying in someone's home.<br />
So obviously choosing to stay at in an apartment is a risky decision. But let's say you're a traveler and are still interested in the value or the experience of an apartment stay. What are the problems, dangers, and how can you find a legitimate place to stay?<br />
<br />
<b>Beware of Scams!</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
This is the most dangerous problem of course. The greatest risk is that someone unscrupulous is just stealing your money and taking off with it. To that end, NEVER book anything that requires advanced payment in the form of cash, wire services, check, or money transfers, even if it's just a security deposit. If you do this, you are begging to be scammed. I repeat, NEVER WIRE MONEY TO PEOPLE YOU DON'T KNOW. At the very least, if you pre-pay with a credit card, there is a process to get a refund from the credit card company for the fraudulent transaction. Though even here, some credit card companies may look poorly on your decision to engage in illegal transactions and then claim fraud.<br />
This type of scam is happily uncommon, except on completely unregulated sites like craigslist. Though even craigslist puts a dramatic warning about never wiring or transferring money on their listings. The far more common complaint is a bait and switch or misrepresentation of apartments. In my own professional experience, I have have had many clients staying in apartments who were given an address and instructions, only to get a call a few days or even hours before arrival saying that there was a vague problem or issue that necessitated a change of apartment. None of these clients ended up without a place to stay but it was often not the specific place they booked. I even had one client who was forced to spend most of the afternoon at the office of an apartment broker as they frantically tried to find them new accommodation. Many of my clients who have booked apartments and been put in this kind of situation have found their new accommodation to be poor quality.<br />
Perhaps the most common switcheroo is just basic misrepresentation. Many listings are real and legitimate rooms located at the claimed address, but the rooms bear no resemblance to the photos or descriptions on the website. Many apartment building owners, especially those with rent-protected tenants or those in single-room occupancies--otherwise known as flophouses--have found that renting these rooms to tourists is much more profitable. So they fix up some apartments and call it a hotel. Now these aren't actually legal hotels and they are often run by vacant landlords or property managers. Often, the "hotel" rooms aren't the only rooms in the building and long-term residents will also be in the halls. And since these hotels aren't legitimate businesses, when cleanliness or amenity issues arise, there's often no one to help out. Often these "apartment style hotels" are in terrible condition as well. Check out the reviews of <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g60763-d612259-Reviews-Hotel_309-New_York_City_New_York.html" target="_blank">Hotel309</a> on W. 14th Street. This is an illegally converted SRO and the largely negative reviews are particularly frightening for their depictions of rats running around on the luggage and bed bug infestations. It's a similar story <a href="http://www.villas.com/usa/new-york-state/new-york-city/1-cozy-studio.html?aid=387647;label=gog235jc-hotel-XX-us-stayNsmartNnycN152NeastN21stNstreet-unspec-us_ny-com-L%3Axu-O%3Aunk-B%3Aunk-N%3AXX-S%3Avi;sid=21775c35037f2fe1f101cb630d5ee6d8;dcid=4;ucfs=1;srfid=ea0e2f5f584ebb8bb03750a46c817e54bd2c48d8X28" target="_blank">here</a> on West 31st Street. In fact, one of the <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g60763-d1893423-Reviews-Metro_Apartments-New_York_City_New_York.html" target="_blank">better reviewed</a> "apartment style hotels" on TripAdvisor has just been <a href="http://www.dnainfo.com/new-york/20150123/hells-kitchen-clinton/city-wants-shut-illegal-hotel-owned-by-ex-porn-mogul-tied-rep-grimm" target="_blank">sued by the city</a> for operating an illegal hotel that piled up building violations.<br />
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<b>How to Avoid Illegal Hotels</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
I think many people fall into the trap of trusting the brokers and services that provide these listings. Many folks are rightly skeptical of Craigslist, but don't apply the same rigor to a website like Booking.com, VRBO.com, or any other travel service. All of those illegal hotels can be booked online at any major travel site. Websites like Expedia don't screen their listings, they just provide a forum for hotels to list rooms, whether they're legal or not. Hotel309 is easily booked on Priceline or any other numerous sites. Many other sites specialize specifically in apartment rentals. A site like Villas.com-owned by Booking.com--may work great for renting a Tuscany villa, but many of their NYC listings are just the same old illegal hotels. Luckily, their listings include addresses which enables users to quickly google the address and find the name of the hotel/business. I also have had far more European clients using brokers and vacation rental services to locate an apartment in NYC, and these are often the ones that lead to trouble for my clients. So just because you found your apartment through a broker or trusted website does not make it legitimate or legal!<br />
This is also where you get to do some due diligence. Let's say you've found an apartment style hotel. It looks nice, it gets good reviews. You've got the address and you want to see if there's anything illegal going on. Well start by typing the address into Google Maps. Does the address exist? Good! Next go to the street view of that address. Is there a building there? Does it look like the kind of building described in the listing? Hopefully so. Now this is where the NYC Department of Buildings website comes in handy. Go to the <a href="http://www.nyc.gov/html/dob/html/home/home.shtml" target="_blank">website</a> of the NYC DOB and find the box on the bottom left that says "building info." Type in the number of the building and the street name, including "east" or "west" and the borough. That will pull up all kinds of info about the structure, including what kind of building it is. For instance, my house is listed as a 2-family dwelling. Correct! Legitimate hotels are listed as hotels. Many illegal apartment style hotels will be listed as condos, co-ops, walk up apartments, or elevator apartments. If you see that kind of listing, it means whatever is at that address can not legally operate as a hotel, or even lease an apartment for less than 30 days.<br />
You should also just be on the lookout for general red flags when dealing with rentals. Is it easy to get in touch with the owner or manager, particularly by phone? If you are only allowed to leave voicemails or send emails/texts, it's probably not a good sign. Also be on the lookout for suspicious English synatx in listing and communications. Of course, not everyone speaks perfect English, but there's a certain strange style of description with many scammers. If you see something advertised as "Charming and cozy apartment in Time Square" your ears should perk up. Why? For one, there's no such thing as "Time Square" though there is a "Time<b>S</b> Square." Does that seem like a small difference? It's not. Every New Yorker knows it's not "Time Square" and no one advertising a legitimate hotel would ever misspell the most famous attraction in the city. Plus, there's almost no apartment buildings in Times Square, and they certainly aren't charming and cozy. It's an area famous for giant neon billboards after all.<br />
So that should help you weed out apartment scams and shady hotels. But what about renting apartments direct from the owners?<br />
<br />
<b>Issues with Direct Apartment Rentals</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
I actually think this is the much safer route to take when renting an apartment. By dealing directly with owners there's a much higher chance that you'll be dealing with someone legitimate and much lower odds of getting scammed into an inferior property than the one you booked. It's much more likely that you'll be dealing with someone renting out a single property and not running a shady business. And these are where the intricacies of the law come into play as well. The top sites for these kinds of rentals are Airbnb, HomeAway, VRBO, and FlipKey. They all provide a range of property types and are slightly different in their booking process. Part of Airbnb's appeal is that you pay up front for the apartment, but Airbnb holds the money is escrow until 24 hours after check-in, so if you want to cancel or have a problem upon arrival there is a seamless way to get money back. Cancellations are often allowed until a week before arrival, though it depends on the hosts policy. They also provide a program for hosts to verify their identities by scanning photo IDs and linking to social media accounts. The biggest downside for Airbnb is that they collect a 6-12% fee on all bookings and it is non-refundable. Homeaway and VRBO are both owned by the same company and specialize more in house rentals. Both have no fees, but have stricter cancellation policies. Homeaway actually requires a written rental contract be signed. Both sites use credit card deposits, so a refund is a little more difficult, but not impossible. They also offer their own streamlined payment system for many properties. FlipKey is owned by TripAdvisor and offers many of the same features, including rental agreements and customized payment mechanisms. All three offer upgrades to more generous protection and insurance programs.<br />
But the trouble is, many of the apartments on these sites are still illegal. But you might wonder what are the odds of something going wrong just renting an apartment from the owner? Well, there's one major risk and that is that the owner will have been evicted because of breaking the law or lease. For an example, see this <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g60763-i5-k1966051-Vacation_apartment_fiasco_in_my_building-New_York_City_New_York.html" target="_blank">story</a> of a New Yorker whose neighbor was evicted for illegal occupancy and some unsuspecting tourists showed up to find the apartment they booked was gone. This happens very rarely but it does happen. There are two ways a host could bring this action upon themselves. The first is the city finds out about it. The city's enforcement agencies don't go trawling through Airbnb looking for listings that are illegal, but they do respond to official complaints made by other residents. NYC's Office of Special Enforcement has recently taken to using <a href="http://www.wnyc.org/story/inspectors-gadgets-find-illegal-airbnbs/" target="_blank">data crunching software</a> to coordinate inspections and root out the most flagrant violators of the law. So if you book an apartment and the owner also hosts a multitude of other properties, it's much more likely the city will come down on them. The other issue is the hosts lease or purchase agreement. When someone rents an apartment, purchases a condo, or co-op in New York City, there are all kinds of restrictions on what kind of things the resident can do with their new apartment. Almost no apartment, co-op, or condo building in New York City allows residents to sub-let their unit for less than 30 days. Many don't allow sub-letting at all, or only under long-term, landlord-approved circumstances. So it is entirely possible that a landlord or manager will find out an apartment is being rented out to tourists as a business and move to evict the tenant without the city ever finding out because they violated the terms of their residence.<br />
Once again, the DOB's <a href="http://www.nyc.gov/html/dob/html/home/home.shtml" target="_blank">website</a> comes in very handy. If you have booked an apartment and want to know if you should be concerned, enter the address in their website and when the buildings records come up, click on "complaints." This will bring up a list of all complaints filed against the building. If there's been a lot of illegal hotel complaints recently, there could be a problem. For example, <a href="http://a810-bisweb.nyc.gov/bisweb/ComplaintsByAddressServlet?requestid=1&allbin=1017010" target="_blank">this</a> building on E. 32nd Street has received a few complaints in the last year about illegal hotel use. That would make me nervous if I was booked into an apartment at that location. But keep in mind, there doesn't need to be any official complaints for a landlord to take action. So in short, I wouldn't book an apartment for my stay that was in an apartment building of any kind. It's a risk, and you'll be breaking the law. I would be especially concerned about an apartment in a heavily-touristed area like Midtown or a building with a number of complaints against it.<br />
<br />
<b>Are there any Legal Apartments?</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
There are! You will just have to work to find them. On any of the vacation rental websites, look for units in houses. Remember, the owner of single- or two-family houses can rent out all or part of their property. So when you're searching the rental sites, you should be looking out for anything in a townhouse, not in an apartment building. So if you see an apartment listing with doormen, gyms, balconies, views, loft-like features, or elevators. It's probably no good. But if you see something with key words like brownstone, townhouse, garden or other house-like amenities, that means it might be legal. Once again, you can check the address against the DOB's website to make sure it is a one- or two-family home. There is one other thing to look out for with townhouses though. Many of the larger ones in NYC are actually classified as apartment buildings because the house has three or more apartments--for example if a 4-story brownstone had an apartment on each floor. These technically can not be rented out. But searching through various sites I found a number of listings that were in apartment townhouses, but the only other residents were the owners. While this doesn't make the rental technically legal, it does make it extremely unlikely there will be any issues since there are no neighbors to lodge complaints. If I was unsure I would call the owner--remember legitimate owners are easy to reach by phone--and ask if there are any other full-time residents in the building.<br />
There is one other instance where renting an apartment is legal: when you are sharing the apartment with the permanent tenant. This is a major feature of Airbnb's business. It allows you to limit your search to a private room within a larger residence. A recent <a href="http://insideairbnb.com/index.html" target="_blank">study</a> found that almost 40% of Airbnb's listings are for rooms within someone's apartment. This is obviously not an arrangement every traveler is comfortable with, but for those on a budget it's a legal affordable option.<br />
One note is that these kinds of legal accommodations are most likely to be found a little further away from the core of the city. Midtown features very few residential streets, and nearby areas like the Upper East and West Sides are often dominated by apartment buildings. The most likely spots to find shared or home based apartments is further out, in the mixed-income gentrifying neighborhoods of Upper Manhattan, Queens, and Brooklyn. Neighborhoods like Harlem, Washington Heights, Astoria, Bushwick, Bed-Stuy, or Lefferts Gardens have lots of houses and lots of shared listings. These are true local neighborhoods. They are generally a subway ride from major attractions but they provide a great sense of everyday New York life. So staying in these areas can be positive or negative depending on your taste and itinerary.<br />
<br />
<b>What are my Other Options?</b><br />
<br />
<b> </b>There are a lot of legal hotels that offer suites or kitchenettes designed for families or bigger groups. The AKA chain of hotels offers apartment style rooms. So does the Affinia chain. As do Doubletree Suites, Beacon Hotel, Radio City Apartments, Candlewood and Staybridge Suites, even some of the city's Best Westerns. Many of these provide kitchens and other residential amenities, though they aren't always cheap. I also found the apartments listed on <a href="http://www.nyhabitat.com/" target="_blank">New York Habitat</a> to mostly be apartments in legal hotels or private homes. They make a big point of stating all their listings conform with NYC law and it looks to me that they are largely correct, though I couldn't look at every single listing.<br />
There are a few legal hostels in New York City too. There is a law against for profit-hostels, though many legislators who object to short-term rentals are trying to overturn the hostel ban. The most longstanding hostel in the city is the Hosetlling International on the Upper West Side. They're a big operation and offer lots of different kinds of accommodation. Recently, there's been more legal hostels opening elsewhere in the city. The American Dream Hostel on 24th Street is legal, as is the new Q4 Hotel in Long Island City, Queens. The Jane Hotel in Greenwich Village also offers private rooms with shared bathrooms. There are some legal budget options out there if you do some research.<br />
<br />
<b>Summarize all that Please!</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b> </b>Basically, don't fall for scams that require you to wire money or pre-pay in non-refundable ways. Don't assume that a listing is legal just because a prominent website or broker advertises it. Rentals in apartment buildings could always go bad if the person renting it out is caught by the city or the building's management. The only safe legal rentals are in private homes or in shared apartments. There are legal hotels that offer suites for bigger groups, and there are some budget hostels available. The easiest advice I can give is just to book a room in a hotel and avoid the stress. But if you're willing to do the hunting you can find legal rentals in New York City.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02913900331338800605noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8406436286979342761.post-17648253816953074672015-01-27T07:30:00.000-05:002017-04-06T20:07:00.631-04:0030 Days in NYC (Day 3) - Midtown Manhattan <br />
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This series of posts is a selection of itineraries covering 30 days in and around New York City. This isn't meant as exactly what to do if you're here for a month (it would be exhausting!). But more a great selection of things you could do while here for any length of time. Now that we've gotten a good intro to the city, let's dive into the crowds...<br />
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<b>DAY 3</b> - Midtown South<br />
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<b>Morning</b>: After we've gotten to see the skyline from the water and from Brooklyn, it's time for the all-time classic view. Head over to 5th Ave and 34th Street. It's time to go up to the 86th floor of the Empire State Building. This is, of course, one of the most popular visits in New York, which means the lines can often be massive, especially at peak times of year and on weekends. So first thing in the morning is the best time to check it out. It opens at 8 AM, and on busy days is packed by 10. So either head over early, or visit at off-peak times. Nevertheless, the view is a classic, especially the south view looking over Downtown and the Financial District. And one piece of warning, there are lots of vendors selling a variety of passes to the top, but they are often shilling crappy package deals so just avoid them and head inside.<br />
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From there, head west on 34th to the flagship store of Macy's department store, the largest store in the U.S. It's a top choice for a lot of visitors to the city, though often too huge and crowded for my tastes. But the nine floors of shops to have some great quirks. In particular, the still operating original wooden escalators from when the store opened in 1902. They have replaced a lot of the wooden stairs with metal, but there are at least a few of the wooden ones left.<br />
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<b>Lunch</b>: There's not a whole lot for great lunch options in the area. Mostly, the lunch spots are geared toward office workers grabbing a quick bit on their lunch break. There are a few better than average spots. Lena Latin Grill on 35th between 6th and 5th is nice South American fare. And Picnic Basket on 37th, just east of 6th Avenue does very good sandwiches. But generally, it's an eat and run type of area for lunch. Nothing wrong with grabbing a turkey and swiss from any ol' deli.<br />
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<b>Afternoon</b>: Walk north on 6th Ave to 40th Street and head into Bryant Park. This small green space serves as the only proper park among Midtown's office towers, so not surprisingly it's the most crowded park in the U.S. Depending on the season there's lots going on here. There's a great ice skating rink in winter, as well as shops at Christmastime. Summer brings back the wide sunny lawn to lay out on. The park also features an award-winning public bathroom! Mostly it's just a nice spot to take a break and watch everyone enjoying their lunch in the sunshine. And on the eastern end of the park, is the New York Public Library.<br />
Head into the Library through the main 5th Ave entrance. This is one of the architectural gems of the city, as well as one of the greatest research facilities in the world. There's more than 40 million items in the collection, but all are kept in the library for on-site research. The lobby is almost entirely marble, and the ceiling of the main reading room is stunning.<br />
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From there, head east to 1st Avenue. You can walk, but it's about a mile. So you can also use your Metrocard to ride the M42 bus (catch it on 42nd Street, naturally). At 1st Avenue, along the East River is a place unique from the rest of New York. In fact, it's not even part of the United States. It's the United Nations, and the 18 acres it sits on belong to every country on Earth. And you don't even need a passport to visit! Tours are available weekdays during business hours. The tour itinerary varies based on what rooms are in use and the ongoing renovations at the UN. But assuming everything is open, tours see the Assembly building, including the Security Council meeting hall, and the General Assembly Hall. Also, be aware that the General Assembly meets in late September, so you won't even be able to get close to the UN during the Assembly.<br />
For the day's finale, walk west on 42nd Street. You will pass the Ford Foundation's landmarked garden courtyard on 42nd between 1st and 2nd Aves. You can head in and take in the tropical feeling interior garden. You'll also pass the magical Chrysler Building on Lexington Ave. The Chrysler usually takes the crown for New Yorker's favorite building. There's something about the soaring steel and whimsical art deco gargoyles and spires that makes the building special. It's an unmistakable icon, and you can enter the building to see the fantastic lobby during business hours.<br />
The last stop for the afternoon is the one and only Grand Central Terminal (technically, it's not called Grand Central Station). The 102 year old station still serves as a daily commute for tens of thousands of Manhattan office workers. The terminal survived railroad business losses, threatened demolition, and terrible renovations. It was restored in the 90s to its original glory and is one of the unmissable sights of New York. There's so much history, architecture, and great little stories to the terminal that it's worth getting the $9 audio tour from the tour window, or downloading it to your phone. After all, you want to know where the secret tennis courts and the hidden cocktail bars are don't you?<br />
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<b>Dinner</b>: There's no need to leave Grand Central, when one of the great eateries of the city is right there in the terminal! The Grand Central Oyster Bar was a part of the station the day it opened and still slings about 25 different kinds of oysters every day. Not to mention to oyster pan roast soup and dozens of other mollusk and crustacean classics. There's actually three different dining areas, but all with the same menu. You can have a more formal setting at the table section, have a less formal meal at the counters and oyster bars, or even head into the wood-paneled, nautical themed saloon. Though if you eat in the saloon, you miss out on one of the grandest dining rooms in the world.<br />
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But let's say raw oysters aren't your thing, but raw fish is. You could always head over to Sushi Yasuda on 43rd between 3rd and 2nd Aves for a real taste of tradition Japanese sushi.<br />
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<b>Evening</b>: It's time to take it easy and get a view and some drinks. Rooftop bars have been sprouting up like wildfires all over the city, in particular around Midtown South, where the Empire State Building rises above the old garment district roofs. There's some great high-end options, like Top of the Strand (37th between 6th and 5th) and Mad 46 (Madison and 45th). There's also some more casual and inexpensive options on top of the Metro Hotel (35th between 5th and 6th) and the roof of the La Quinta Inn (32nd between 5th and 6th). They're all pretty relaxed, but if you really want to party the night away with a view of the Empire State Building head to the massive three-level nightclub 230 5th (at 27th Street).<br />
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<script async="" defer="" src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02913900331338800605noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8406436286979342761.post-55624938331945516242015-01-17T11:00:00.000-05:002015-01-17T11:00:05.050-05:00Great list of unique shops in New York I'm not usually the type to simply link to a bunch of other people's lists or writings about New York City, but this one is a topic of which I'm particularly fond. One of the great charms of New York is that in a city whose essence is often defined as motion, progress, striving, and whiplash changes, there are still hundreds and thousands of small local businesses that have served their communities for generations. Some like Katz's Deli or Nathan's Hot Dogs have become international icons of New York's food and history. But scores more are famous only to their customers. They don't change their signs. They don't change their menus (much). They are passed down through generations, or sold to loyal customers who keep the ship sailing on the same course. They provide a living history, and one that continues to perform vital functions in their community. Just in my neighborhood, I can buy bread at at 40-year old Italian bakery. Buy my meats at a 50-year old butcher shop, grab a drink at a more than 60-year old Irish pub, or get breakfast at the neighborhood diner that has been under the elevated tracks about as long as there have been elevated tracks. You can't ignore New York's history and the people that have lived there in past generations because you live that history and that life everyday. So here is Buzzfeed writer's Mathew Perpetua's list of 44 unique, old, small businesses in all 5 boroughs. Not only are there some classics there, but a few I didn't even know about. Enjoy!<br />
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<a href="http://www.buzzfeed.com/perpetua/amazing-nyc-places-that-actually-still-exist#.tonbNmAZY" target="_blank">44 Amazing old NYC businesses</a><br />
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<script async="" defer="" src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02913900331338800605noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8406436286979342761.post-27462961186736579122015-01-13T08:00:00.000-05:002017-04-06T20:06:42.518-04:0030 Days in NYC (Day 2) - DUMBO & Brooklyn Heights <br />
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This series of posts is a selection of itineraries covering 30 days in and around New York City. This isn't meant as exactly what to do if you're here for a month (it would be exhausting!). But more a great selection of things you could do while here for any length of time. Day one brought us through the center of Manhattan around 23rd Street. But for the next day, it's all about the views OF Manhattan. Day 2 is off to Brooklyn...<br />
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<b>DAY 2</b> - Brooklyn Heights and DUMBO<br />
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<b>Morning</b>: This morning is a relaxed one so no need to rush out in the morning. Start by heading to Borough Hall. These days, New York City is made up of five boroughs--counties, in fact, according to the State of New York--but it wasn't always so. Until 1898, New York City meant Manhattan island. Towns and villages of Queens, The Bronx, and Staten Island were all independent. But Brooklyn was more than just a satellite. It was an independent city, home to almost a million people, and was the third largest city in the U.S. Borough Hall was built in 1848 to house the government of the newly incorporated City of Brooklyn. While unification with New York stripped Brooklyn of its independence, Borough Hall remains a symbol of Brooklyn's pride and history. Behind Borough Hall is Joralemon Street, which leads to the right to the quiet streets of Brooklyn Heights, the most well-preserved historic neighborhood in New York City. The neighborhood is situated on a bluff above the East River and first developed as a residential area 200 years ago when the world's first steam powered ferry service began puttering between Brooklyn and Manhattan. The streets at the northern end of the neighborhood, such as Hicks and Middagh Streets feature dozens of clapboard houses almost two centuries old that look straight out of a small New England town. Further south, the small alleys of Grace Court and Love Lane (yes, really!) feature rows of old carriage houses. And all through the neighborhood are beautiful brick and brownstone townhouses.<br />
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<a href="https://instagram.com/p/pj2-LRNCeh/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_top">A photo posted by Shawn (@nytourguy)</a> on <time datetime="2014-06-22T20:47:57+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Jun 6, 2014 at 1:47pm PDT</time></div>
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But the real highlight of the neighborhood is the promenade at the western end. When a highway was built into the side of the bluff in the late 1950s, a walkway was added on top of it to abate the noise and add public space. The result is a 7 block long promenade above the East River, from Orange Street to Remson Street. The commanding view stretches from Staten Island in the south up to the Empire State Building.<br />
From the promenade, head north on Columbia Heights and walk down the hill to Old Fulton Street at the base of the Brooklyn Bridge. At the end of the street is the new Brooklyn Bridge Park. It's a mecca of old piers, repurposed for all kinds of waterfront recreation. Pier 6, at the Atlantic Ave end is for the kiddies with awesome playgrounds. As you walk north, piers feature soccer fields, basketball and boccie courts, and even a roller skating rink. But the best views are from Pier 1 as you approach the Brooklyn Bridge. The parkland juts out into the East River and provides a dramatic view of the Statue of Liberty, the Lower Manhattan skyline, and the Brooklyn Bridge. After taking in the view, walk back to Old Fulton Street. This spot was the original settlement of Brooklyn, and before the bridge was built, Brooklyn's transportation network funneled here to the ferry terminal. Look for the plaque commemorating the 9,000 American soldiers, led by George Washington, who rowed across the East River on the night of August 29th, 1776 to escape the positions in which they had been trapped since the Battle of Long Island 3 days prior. The retreat was not glorious but it did prevent the British Army from destroying the fledgling American forces.<br />
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<b>Lunch: </b>Weirdly, there's not a great selection of restaurants in in the area, but there are at least two great pizza options in the neighborhood. Head back to Old Fulton Street, just uphill a little ways from Pier 1, and there is Juliana's and Grimaldi's. It's a strange story with these two. Patsy Grimaldi founded Grimaldi's more than 20 years ago. He sold it to an investor some time after that and had a falling out with the new owner. Fast forward to a few years ago when Grimaldi's lost their lease and moved next door. That's when Patsy opened a new place called Juliana's in his old Grimaldi's space. Confused yet? Don't worry, the pies at both are fantastic examples of why New York is pizza king of the Western Hemisphere. The line usually shorter at Juliana's, but the pizza is arguably better. Though to be honest, I'm a fan of Grimaldi's crispier crusts. You can't go wrong either way.<br />
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<b>Afternoon: </b>Head to the other side of the Brooklyn Bridge to capture some even better views of the bridge and enter the neighborhood of DUMBO (a rather silly acronym for <b>D</b>own <b>U</b>nder the <b>M</b>anhattan <b>B</b>ridge <b>O</b>verpass). Currently, the waterfront park is relaxed and features Jane's Carousel, a restored 1922 carousel on the end of the pier. But beginning in Fall 2015, two old waterfront warehouses will have been repurposed. The small old tobacco inspection warehouse will be a theater for the independent theater company St. Ann's Warehouse. And the block long Empire Stores will be refitted into a huge Chelsea Market-esque food, retail, and tech emporium. Plus it will feature a pretty cool looking rooftop park. Walk east along Plymouth Street for a block and you'll begin to see why DUMBO is New York's most photogenic neighborhood. It's a former waterfront industrial center with huge brick and concrete lofts. The soaring spans of the Manhattan and Brooklyn Bridges soar over cobblestone streets slotted with defunct train tracks. The most photographed spot is just ahead on Washington Street where the Manhattan Bridge slices over the street, and the Empire State Building can be spotted perfectly framed by the bridge tower.<br />
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A photo posted by Shawn (@nytourguy) on <time datetime="2014-03-18T20:33:54+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Mar 3, 2014 at 1:33pm PDT</time></div>
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Keep walking east through DUMBO, underneath the Manhattan Bridge and along Water Street. Eventually the old lofts dwindle away to an undefined post-industrial neighborhood. And then suddenly at the end of the street is a tucked away corner of charm, the cobblestone, tree-lined street of Vinegar Hill. This neighborhood used to be home to scores of Irish dockworkers, but most of the old buildings were razed leaving only a lonely few blocks of Hudson Ave. Perhaps its the incongruous placement among the massive power plant, warehouses, and housing projects, but Hudson Ave always seems like a hidden treasure. In fact, we'll be returning here for one of the best restaurants in Brooklyn. Make sure to go up tiny Evans Street, just next to Water Street. At the end of the short block is a massive fence, guarding an astonishingly luxurious historic mansion. This is the Commandant's House, a private home from 1805 that used to be part of the Brooklyn Navy Yard. It was the home of the base commander. The house is owned privately and lived in but the owner remains mysterious. It can be seen a little more up close in Season 2 of <i>Boardwalk Empire</i>.<br />
That brings us to the Navy Yard itself, a massive 300 acre former shipyard, slowly being transformed into a hub of 21st century industry. Go back to Hudson and take a left. You'll pass the crumbling ruins of Admiral's Row, if it's still there. The homes used to be officer's homes on the yard, but have been crumbling for 50 years. There are plans to put new grocery stores and other necessities on the site so they may be gone by the time you see them. The Navy Yard is in the midst of a great revival. It was once the largest naval shipyard in the country, churning out warships to patrol the seas from the Civil War to Vietnam. It employed thousands of Brooklynites--including many women during wartime--and was where famous battleships and carriers like the <i>Arizona, Missouri, </i>and<i> Constellation</i> were built. But it closed in 1966. Recently the Navy Yard has become a hub of small manufacturing, green jobs, film studios, and even some longtime businesses. There is a new visitor center and museum, called Building 92, and tours of the yard are given on weekends, usually around 2:30. The yard tours have something for everyone. They're great for military history buffs, film fanatics, fans of trendy design, and photography. So if you want to invest the time and money in a visit on a nice weekend, book a tour for the afternoon. It's a great chance to see a part of the city that was, until recently, completely closed to the public.<br />
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<b>Dinner</b>: For dinner, head back to Hudson Ave and Vinegar Hill. Located in the subtly marked door at 72 Hudson is Vinegar Hill House, one of my favorite restaurants in New York. It's one of the finest farmhouse restaurants in the city, and it's secluded location makes it feel even more like being away from it all. The interior is reclaimed wood and stone. The garden is green and gorgeous. And there's even a fireplace for cold nights. The menu is a locally sourced twist on classic American fare. Best of all is the whipped chicken liver mousse, which may sound unpleasant but is an incredible burst of different flavors. You can make a night of it here in the charming space, or come for an early dinner and spend the evening at...<br />
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<b>Evening</b>: Check out one of the great independent theater productions hosted by the aforementioned St. Ann's Warehouse. They feature a lot of challenging and high quality theater. They are one of the favorite alternative theater destinations in the city, getting consistently rave reviews. And as of this fall, they'll be in their new waterfront warehouse home. After the show, there's no better way to end the day than a night time walk over the Brooklyn Bridge. The 132-year old bridge's walkway is wonderfully placed above the roadway and smack in the middle of the span. That means awesome views of the bridge towers and 360 degree city views. The stairs onto the bridge are tucked onto Prospect Street where it passes under the bridge. It can be found by walking uphill on either Old Fulton or Washington Street.<br />
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<script async="" defer="" src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02913900331338800605noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8406436286979342761.post-3416576071757967592015-01-06T16:59:00.000-05:002017-04-06T20:06:23.338-04:0030 Days in NYC (Day 1) - Chelsea & The Flatiron District <br />
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Most visitors to New York City realize very quickly in planning their trip that they won't see everything NYC has to offer. I've had clients staying for multiple weeks who still feel as if they'll never get it it all in. So I got to wondering, what could a whole month in New York look like? Are there a full 30 days worth of activities and sights in the Big Apple? Well it turns out there's way more than 30 days but i needed to control myself, so I decided to come up with 30 different daily itineraries. I wouldn't really advise coming and doing all 30 days at once. It would be the most tiring vacation ever! But it's a fun way to give people an idea of all the different types of places and things there are to do in New York. So think of these as 30 different suggestions for any trip. I did include a few day trips, since there is so much to see outside the city. But I made sure that there is no overlap on any of the 30 days. Each day will include activities, sights, food, drink, and entertainment ideas. So, all of New York is fair game. Where to start?<br />
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<b>DAY 1</b> - Flatiron and Chelsea<br />
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First of all, if I was planning a trip to New York, this would be the area I would pick for a hotel. There's lots of good ones around Union Square, like the W, Hyatt, Jade, or Verite. There's also many near Madison Square including a Hampton Inn, the Lex, Giraffe, and Gramercy. Chelsea has one of my favorites, the High Line Hotel, as well as the Gem, Maritime, and Dream Downtown. The reason I like these areas so much is that they have a little bit of everything. They are centrally located right between Midtown's famous landmarks and trendy downtown spots. There's lots of major brand shopping in the Flatiron District, local food markets in Madison and Union Squares, eateries running from blue-collar diners to the most prestigious restaurants in the city. There is historic architecture in Flatiron's beautiful old lofts and department stores, as well as Chelsea's historic rowhouses. And the boldest new design in the city is in West Chelsea's galleries, parks, and new condos.<br />
Most of all, I think this area makes a great introduction to New York because of how vibrant the streets are. Most visitors head straight for Times Square or 5th Ave when they arrive. After all, you don't come to New York for quiet charm, you want to feel the energy of the streets! And Times Square sure does have energy. The problem is, the whole enormous crowd is made up entirely of tourists and office workers. The tourists stand around gawking and the office workers hustle to leave the area. Plus there's the endless annoyance of touts, tour operators, ticket sellers, and costumed characters bombarding visitors with requests for money. So while those are iconic sights, it's not the best vibe in the city. Flatiron and Chelsea are filled with shoppers, workers, residents, and tourists doing all kinds of different things. It's the true heart of the city. So let's start the day!<br />
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<b>Morning</b>: Head to Union Square, preferably on a Monday, Wednesday, Friday, or Saturday to see the farmers unloading their goods for the city's largest farmer's market. Local, independent farmers bring the bounty of New York, New Jersey, Connecticut, and Pennsylvania here four days a week. Fruits and veggies top the offerings, but there's eggs, fresh milk, breads, cakes, wines, ciders, herbs, honey, and even a stand devoted to duck products. I also think of Union Square as the local's version of Times Square. It's a transit and shopping hub, a green space, student hub, protest stage, and just an awesome spot to hang around.
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<a href="https://instagram.com/p/toOpqDtCaH/" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_top">A photo posted by Shawn (@nytourguy)</a> on <time datetime="2014-10-01T23:37:24+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Oct 10, 2014 at 4:37pm PDT</time></div>
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After checking out Union Square, head north on Broadway to 20th Street. There's some awesome shops along here to explore like Paragon Sports (for gearing up to climb Everest), ABC Carpet & Home (perfect for furnishing your $10million loft), and Fishes Eddy (for quirky home goods). Take a right on 20th. Down the block is the Theodore Roosevelt Birthplace National Historic Site. TR is the only American president from New York City, and his life story is one of adventure, the outdoors, exploration, war, peace and rough and tumble politics. Unfortunately, the original home was torn down nearly a century ago, and the museum is housed in a replica. But still, it's a great museum dedicated to America's most exciting President.<br />
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<b>Lunch:</b> At the end of the block, on the corner with Broadway, is Beecher's handmade cheese. You can watch the cheese-making right in the shop. You can get sandwiches or their amazing mac n' cheese in the shop, or go downstairs to The Cellar for a more formal lunch. One block up on 21st is Harding's, a slightly more upscale restaurant/bar with a menu and decor that focuses on classic American cuisine. It's a cool but comfortable space. Up on 23rd Street and 5th Ave is the massive Italian food emporium Eataly, with everything from formal meals to gelato and paninis inside. And on 5th between 22nd and 23rd is Eisenberg's. One of New York's most timeless lunch spots. It's over 80 years old and wallet-friendly, featuring timeless tuna melts, egg creams, burgers, and BLTs. And on the off-chance there's a short wait at Shake Shack in Madison Square Park, you can always grab a burger.<br />
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<b>Afternoon</b>: Start at Madison Square Park. This is another of the city's great meeting spaces. In fact, at the end of the 19th Century's Guilded Age, this was the preferred destination of America's elite for shopping, dining, and entertainment. The square is always lively with residents at the dog park, office workers (especially publishing and tech workers) out to eat, and anyone checking out the rotating public art displays. And if modern art isn't your thing. The buildings around Madison Square are breathtaking. The East Side features the opulent towers of Met Life and New York Life insurance. But the gem is the Flatiron (pronounced FLAT-aye-urn). Built in 1902, this is one of the world's great buildings. Its namesake triangular shape is seen dramatically from the large open space where Broadway and 5th Ave intersect. While it may not have been the first or tallest of New York's skyscrapers. It's one of the most famed and beloved.<br />
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A photo posted by Shawn (@nytourguy) on <time datetime="2013-09-28T16:01:53+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">Sep 9, 2013 at 9:01am PDT</time></div>
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Next it's time to check out some of the shops along 5th and 6th Avenues. These streets were New York's primary shopping destination at the end of the 19th Century. Rich shoppers headed to the fine stores of Broadway and middle-class shoppers took the elevated train to 6th Avenues department stores, an area formerly called the 'Ladies' Mile'. Happily, most of the beautiful department store buildings are intact along 6th, though today they house more pedestrian brands like The Container Store and Trader Joe's. The whole area is a nice one for major brand shopping. It has many of the same stores as 5th Ave or Soho but less of the crowds. But now, it's time to head to Chelsea.<br />
Head west on 23rd to check out the Hotel Chelsea on 7th Ave. It's one of the most famous artistic haunts in New York and has been a stopover for Patti Smith, Sid Vicious, Arthur Miller, Arthur C. Clarke, Leonard Cohen, Janis Joplin, Allen Ginsburg, Gregory Corso, Dylan Thomas and many more. Going south on 8th Ave, take a right on 21st or 20th. These are some of the prettiest historic streets in Manhattan and are dominated by the beautiful General Theological Seminary on the block between 9th and 10th Aves. This was once the estate of Clement Clarke Moore, who famously wrote 'Twas the Night Before Christmas.' You can enter the Seminary grounds if you want some quiet green space.<br />
Turning left on 10th Ave will bring you to Chelsea Market on 16th Street. This is another of New York's best food destinations. The market was once a massive factory for Nabisco. In fact, they developed the Oreo cookie in this very building. Since the late 90s it has been a massive hub for food vendors, restaurants, markets, food makers, and just about everything food related imaginable. Stop at the Lobster Place fish market for one of the best seafood markets anywhere. But mostly take your time and check out all the side rooms where lots of small vendors are located.<br />
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<b>Dinner</b>: There's a lot of great options inside Chelsea Market. For sit-down meals there is Green Table with excellent farm-to-table menus. Corkbuzz is a just opened wine bar. And Cull & Pistol is the restaurant side of Lobster Place's fish market. There's some more expensive options like Colicchio & Sons, and Del Posto on 10th Ave. Also on 10th Ave is the less expensive Park, in a skylit, garden-like former parking garage. La Bottega on 9th Ave, in the Maritime Hotel also puts out moderately priced Italian.<br />
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<b>Evening</b>: There's nothing like seeing Manhattan from the water, so let's head to Chelsea Piers on 23rd Street and 11th Ave for an evening cruise. There are harbor cruises from Bateaux New York that feature dinner and music aboard a glass enclosed vessel. But if the weather's nice, I would opt for the more casual offerings of Classic Harbor Lines. They not only have a 1920s style yacht for harbor cruises, but also offer sunset and evening cruises aboard their two sailing schooners. I love the feeling of being under sail, gliding past the Statue of Liberty, especially since they offer complimentary wine and beer. The view of the skyline lit up on your first night on the town should be plenty of inspiration for the 29 days ahead!<br />
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<script async="" defer="" src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02913900331338800605noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8406436286979342761.post-27310881188577906772015-01-04T10:34:00.001-05:002015-01-04T10:36:16.609-05:00Scrapple in the Apple New York City's history is full of tragic creative figures. Edgar Allen Poe spent the last tortured years of his life in Greenwich Village and The Bronx. Dylan Thomas drank himself into a fatal coma at the White Horse Tavern. Jack Kerouac and Jackson Pollack both became the face of new American cultural movements and both lives spiraled out of control. But few others have personified the tragic artist persona like Charlie Parker.<br />
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Parker was born in 1920 in the jazz hotbed of Kansas City. He was a high school dropout who played his saxophone obsessively from a young age. He doubtlessly spent hours listening to fellow Kansas Citian Count Basie and developing his technique and style before joining the Jay McShann touring band at the age of 18. Within a year, he would follow the path of Jazz legends before him and find his way to Harlem.<br />
He got a job as a dishwasher at a favorite jazz and food hangout called Jimmy's Chicken Shack on 148th Street and St. Nicholas Ave. The legendary Harlem pianist Art Tatum played regularly and had a huge influence on Parker, especially his soloing. He would continue to tour with the Jay McShann Band, even playing at the Savoy in Harlem in the early 40s. It would be with the Jay McShann Band that he would meet young Dizzy Gillespie, beginning their lifelong collaboration. It was also in these early years that Parker developed a heroin habit that would be nearly debilitating for many parts of his career.<br />
In 1942, Parker had left McShann's band and was often found performing in Harlem with Dizzy at Clark Monroe's Uptown House. Parker was one of a vanguard of musicians changing the style of Jazz. The classic swing style of Jazz had become one of the most popular mainstream music styles in the country. It was heard on radio and at major concert halls everywhere. For many young, black musicians swing was too staid and mainstream to be cool. Their style would be based on experimental solos, unique phrasing, high-tempo playing, and generally creating a music, language, and style that listeners accustomed to swing found difficult. Even their slang was obscure, and out of that slang came the word bebop to describe the new sound.<br />
Bebop would begin to breakout of underground clubs when Parker would begin sitting-in with the already established crew at Minton's Playhouse on 118th Street, The regular players there included Kenny Clarke, Charlie Christian, and Thelonious Monk. Dizzy would play regularly too. After Parker started joining in the reputation spread through the Jazz world as the place to see the most talented and experimental players in the world. It attracted other young players to listen, learn, and play like Art Blakely, Max Roach, and Miles Davis. In just a few years, bebop would break out of Harlem, and Parker would become its most revered performer.<br />
While Dizzy Gillespie's affable nature helped spread bebop to the mainstream, it was Parker who did the most to spread the new jazz among intellectuals, hipsters, and the bohemians of downtown. In the late 40s and early 50s, Parker was a regular in Greenwich Village clubs like Arthur's Tavern, the Village Vanguard, and the Open Door. He even moved downtown to the distinctly untrendy, working-class area around Tompkins Square Park in the East Village. He was unpredictable in his moods and unrestrained in his passions. He continued his drug use and continued expanding his music. He called on experimental French composer Edgard Varese at his home in the Village and asked Varese to teach him all he knew about composition in return for anything Parker could offer. He even offered to cook for Varese. Parker was a legend among jazz aficionados. He even had a club on 52nd named for him, Birdland. But in the end, the drugs and hard living caught up to him. His cabaret license was revoked in '51 because of drug charges and would only be booked sporadically over the last 4 years of his life. Even when he had a booking, he often wouldn't show, or could barely make it through the set. In late 1954, a friend found him passed out on the street in the Village, and he would hole up in the friend's apartment all winter before dying 3 months later. In his exile and death, his legend had only grown. And when he passed away, one of New York's first ever example's of graffiti would appear scrawled in chalk on walls in Village and elsewhere, "Bird Lives!" Here he is playing "Scrapple from the Apple"<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02913900331338800605noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8406436286979342761.post-50236279704647870692014-10-24T08:17:00.000-04:002014-10-24T08:17:05.899-04:00How to eat well in NYC Food is the most memorable part of any trip for me. I have wonderful beach memories from Hawai'i, but I have even better memories of slurping noodles and shave ice. The Hagia Sofia is Istanbul was awe-inspiring, but sipping coffee in back alleys was even better. The memories we associate with food trigger different senses and are more powerful than just remembering what we see. And the pressure is on when you visit New York, one of the great food cities on Earth. You don't want to come here and have a bad food experience. Rather than make a list of great restaurants (there's plenty of those already), I figured I would compile some tips and resources to help you find the best food. So let's start with some habits to avoid.<br />
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Quite a feast in #flushing. #chinesefood #queens #oystersauce #taiwanese #nyc #realnytours</div>
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<b>FOR GOODNESS SAKE, DON'T EAT AT CHAIN RESTAURANTS!</b><br />
This seems obvious right? And yet, I have had many savvy clients who arrive at their hotel, probably in Times Square, and are tired, disoriented, and travel-weary; they see TGI Friday's aglow in neon and say "Screw it, let's eat there. At least we know what we're getting."<br />
The thing is, you don't actually know what you're getting. Generally, chain restaurants like Olive Garden or Applebee's are a good options in rural or suburban areas. They have low prices for food that tastes pretty good. The service is usually quite good as well. I never complained about these restaurants when I lived outside NYC. But chains in NYC are an entirely different experience. I actually will admit to patronizing TGI Friday's twice in Manhattan, at two different locations. And the first thing I noticed was the service was terrible. In one instance, it was later at night and the restaurant was nearly empty. And yet it took almost 30 minutes to receive our drinks and we never had food orders taken. We were starving and actually walked out to try to find a place to eat. It makes sense when you think about it though. In suburban areas, chain restaurants are some of the best waiter jobs available. They are busy, tables move fast, and there isn't as much competition for diner's dollars. But the clientele at Manhattan chains is often tourists, many of them foreign, who are unfamiliar with tipping in the U.S. Whereas top restaurants in NYC are numerous and the pricey checks and well-heeled clientele can make a good waiter a profitable living. So if you were any good at waiting tables, why would you work at the Times Square Red Lobster?<br />
The other issue is price. Low prices and unlimited-eating deals are the staple of chain restaurants. Olive Garden always has some variation on unlimited soup, salad, and breadsticks. TGI is currently offering unlimited appetizers for $10. But you'll find these deals often don't exist in Manhattan, and that everyday prices have been gouged. Olive Garden helpfully lists menu prices at all their locations nationwide. At my old high school shopping mall in suburban Houston, Texas, chicken alfredo costs a reasonable $14.50. At the Times Square location, the same dish is $21.00! An almost 50% price bump. Is that just standard NYC prices you might ask? It is absolutely not. Mario Batali's mid-range Roman restaurant Lupa is famous for its spaghetti alla carbonara priced at $16.00. Italian standout Rubirosa offers cavatelli with sausage and broccoli rabe for $16.00. Century-old John's of 12th Street offers carbonara for $19.00. Perhaps most indicative of the price gouging is that at my last trip to TGI Friday's, the prices of alcohol weren't even listed on the menu, presumably so they could surprise customers with exorbitant bills. So while you might be tempted to go with something familiar, just remember that chain restaurants in NYC aren't even good compared to chain restaurants elsewhere.<br />
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<b>WHAT ABOUT LITTLE ITALY?</b><br />
I'm less emphatic in disliking Little Italy than some tour guides. You will often hear that Little Italy is nothing more than a tourist trap, and in many ways this is true. A century ago, Mulberry Street was the heart of a heaving Italian immigrant district. But over the decades, changes in immigration policy and patterns has led to fewer Italians migrating to New York and many more Italian-Americans moving away from the neighborhood to larger homes in the Outer Boroughs and suburbs of New Jersey and Long Island. What was once home to more than 50,000 immigrants is now not home to a single Italian-born resident. But the identity of Mulberry Street still exists as a place for festivals and food, and currently the street is lined with sidewalk tables.<br />
But the restaurants aren't very good. Good restaurants in NYC succeed in a couple of ways. They are good enough to attract repeat business from their neighborhood, or they're so spectacular they draw diners from all over the city. In both cases, you have to put out a good experience for your customers or you risk losing them. Little Italy, however, is an attraction. People come to see the neighborhood but there's no one restaurant of great fame with a reputation to defend. And with the clientele being mostly tourists, the way to succeed as a restaurant is just to get the customers in the door. Which is why so many Little Italy restaurants employ pushy street-hawkers to hustle hungry patrons inside. And with a transient clientele, you don't even have to worry about impressing your customers. They won't be back anyways. Little Italy's restaurants suffer from mediocre and uninspired food at the same price as many much better Manhattan Italian restaurants. Little Italy is just not worth a special trip.<br />
But I don't think that means you should never eat there. The food isn't awful, it's just a bit blase. But if you happen to be passing through the area, it works fine as a relaxed lunch. Many of the restaurants slash their prices for lunch making it pretty good value. And the sidewalk tables are nice on a sunny afternoon. The places on Mulberry Street are also good for big groups, which can be hard to find in Lower Manhattan. But even with all that, I think I would still rather eat at any of the great Italian places in Nolita just a few blocks north, like Osteria Morini, Torrisi, Parm, Rubirosa, or Lombardi's.<br />
There is one thing I think is truly great about Little Italy though, the historic food shops. You can still get fresh made mozzarella and ricotta at Alleva, homemade pasta at Piemonte, piping hot porchetta at Di Palo, or crunchy sfogiatella at Cafe Roma. All these shops are more than 90 years old and still make their products the old-fashioned way. So if you happen to have a kitchen during your stay in NYC, making your own Italian feast at home with fresh ingredients might be the best meal you can have in Little Italy.<br />
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Alleva Deli in Little Italy. Doin it right for 121 years.</div>
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<b>DON'T USE TRIPADVISOR RATINGS FOR RESTAURANTS</b><br />
While I love using TripAdvisor for finding good hotels, tours, and things to do, it's not the best source for restaurant info. This is because the reviews are only done by tourists and not by locals. I'm not saying tourists have bad taste, that's completely untrue. But restaurants are different in a lot of ways in New York City than in other places. They are much more cramped, prices are a bit higher, soft drinks don't often include refills, bathrooms are often only a single unisex toilet, and other small differences can lead to an undeserved negative review.<br />
TripAdvisor's ratings system also places emphasis on establishments with lots of reviews, which is generally a good thing. But the restaurants that get the most reviews from tourists tend to be in heavily touristed areas like Midtown. There certainly are good dining options in Midtown, but generally the restaurants are better in neighborhoods like the Lower East Side or Greenwich Village. And these places just aren't always as highly represented on TripAdvisor's ratings. It's not that TripAdvisor's ratings are bad or incorrect, they are just missing a lot of the neighborhood restaurants that are beloved by locals. And it almost guarantees you'll be eating in a spot with lots of other tourists.<br />
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<b>USEFUL RESOURCES</b><br />
<b> </b>There's lots of great resources for researching good restaurants. In fact, there's so much info that it can be overwhelming. So I'll let you know a few of my go-to info sources. <script async="" defer="" src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script><br />
<a href="http://yelp.com/">Yelp.com</a> is the behemoth of user reviews. What's great about them is that locals and tourists alike leave reviews so you get a good overall sense of people's experiences. Plus so many people use it that there's a good sample size to base an opinion from. Lots of times Yelp can be a good resource for finding the best in neighborhood places that excel but escape the notice of critics. It does have some drawbacks though. Yelpers are often overly critical of service and a great restaurant can elicit tanking reviews from just a few bad service interactions. The trouble is that sometimes service really does need improvement and other times a reviewer is just overly prickly. So I tend to use Yelp for finding a good casual place nearby, but not for finding special occasion places.<br />
One of the best resources for a visitor is the recommendation map on <a href="http://eater.com/">Eater.com</a>. They have a map of their 38 essential NYC restaurants. They range in price, location, and style. But as they put it, the list constitutes their answer to the question "can you recommend a restaurant." So it makes a great resource for finding the best of NYC's restaurants.<br />
<a href="http://www.localeats.com/" target="_blank">Localeats.com </a> is another great resource. They sift through reviews from different critics and user resources like Zagat and come up with a curated list of places that are positively reviewed in lots of different venues. They also have a list of the top 100 restaurants in NYC as well as best-of winners in individual genres of cuisine.<br />
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<b>FOLLOW YOUR NOSE</b><br />
Ultimately, you don't need other people's opinions to find good places. Often walking down the block and wandering into someplace unexpected will lead to a great discovery, especially if you are in a great dining neighborhood. For this strategy to work, it helps to be located in Downtown or Western Brooklyn. The best neighborhoods for food are Greenwich Village, Tribeca, Nolita, the East Village, the Lower East Side in Manhattan and Park Slope, Carroll Gardens, and Williamsburg in Brooklyn. Hell's Kitchen, Chelsea, Chinatown, Soho, Greenpoint, Red Hook, Fort Greene, and Astoria Queens all fall in right behind. Other 'hoods have good and bad options. So if you are wandering through Lower Manhattan or Western Brooklyn you have a great chance of finding a great place to dine.<br />
Like other places, restaurants in NYC with big crowds are usually good, though this doesn't apply if you're in a major tourist area like Midtown, the South Street Seaport, or Little Italy. But otherwise a lot of patrons is a good sign. But I do find that visitors often don't appreciate the whole-in-the-wall vibe that a lot of great NYC restaurants cultivate. Bustling restaurants on a corner with big signs and lights are often poor options compared to small places in the middle of a block with no sign or obvious markers. I usually assume that a busy mid-block restaurant is better than a bustling corner spot though this isn't a concrete rule.<br />
So stay away from tourist areas or chains, do some research in advance, and find yourself in cool neighborhoods and you will eat like a king in NYC.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02913900331338800605noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8406436286979342761.post-70689908793016691322014-09-21T08:34:00.000-04:002015-02-03T19:20:21.649-05:00Broadway Alternatives - Sleep No More Much of theater in New York is easily divided into categories. Is your theater larger than 500 seats? Then it's a Broadway theater. Between 100 and 499 seats? Well, that's Off-Broadway. Smaller still is Off-Off-Broadway. There's lots of different styles of plays performed on these stages, from Shakespeare to Disney. But what if the theater doesn't have seats? What if the performers don't speak? What if the audience can move and observe whatever they like? There's no category for that. But it's called <i>Sleep No More</i>.<br />
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<a name='more'></a><i> Sleep No More</i> is the most unique, big-budget, theater experience in New York. "Experience" is the key word in describing the production. This is not simply a play you watch, but an entire world to get sucked into and explore. The production takes place sprawling across five floors of an old industrial building in Chelsea, just west of the High Line Park. The space once held all kinds of high-gloss dance clubs since the 90s, but has now been entirely converted to the performance space. The show is produced by an English company called Punchdrunk, that specializes in creating immersive theatrical worlds. Punchdrunk has renamed the building the McKittrick Hotel, and that's where the action takes place.<br />
It's hard to describe the vibe of the McKittrick. The setting seems to be sometime in the 1920s, though the exact era is hard to pin down. Jazz drifts across the rooms and theater smoke fills the air. The performance is meant to be experienced silently. And guests arriving together are told to split up to experience the show on their own so that your explorations and experiences are unique. And everyone in the audience receives a white mask to distinguish them from the performers and to hide the expressions of the watchers. It's tempting to call the McKittrick haunted. It often has that feel, though there's never anything designed to make you start or scream. There are rooms of old banquet halls, the hotel lobby, jazz clubs and others that all feel abandoned and decaying. Chairs are stacked, tarpaulin draped over shelves and cases. The main hotel spaces are filled with the same dread as the empty hotel in <i>The Shining</i>. But there are other rooms as well. Some evoke medical experiments gone awry. Others evoke pagan or satanic influence. Some just look like the fever dreams of twisted minds. But all through the performance the McKittrick has a feeling that something tragic and disturbing has happened here. And all the time there is a soundtrack of droning, foreboding music, occasionally interrupted by distant jazz. The rooms are even different temperatures and humidity depending on the mood of the space.<br />
Throughout the McKittrick, there are unmasked performers moving along the story. Ostensibly, the story is a retelling of Shakespeare's Macbeth. But you would have to be very familiar with the source material and have the ability to be on six or more places at once to actually follow the story. There is no dialogue and scenes take place simultaneously all over the building. There's actually a modern dance element to the performance as each scene is silent and the action consists of highly choreographed movements, rooted in a kind of non-rhythmic dance. The scenes play out in dreamy motion, the only sound the droning and daunting music. The actors move from room to room, floor to floor. The audience often follows along to try to keep up with the action. Often audience members become part of the the action with the performers locking their eyes on that of an audience member. I even saw one audience member taken into a room by a performer and the door locked behind them. But even more enjoyable than following the story is to explore the rooms. Throughout the whole night, there was a sense of being inside the world of an eerie and twisted film. The dramatic lighting and incredible set design took you out of one reality and into another. By taking time alone to explore, and even opening trunks and drawers and whatever else you can find, you become soaked in the world of the story. And at the end, all are brought to the ballroom where the finale plays out. And finally, you emerge back into the dreamy jazz lounge you began in, now, at last, swinging with life.<br />
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The show was originally conceived to be very temporary and was only intended to last a few months. But huge buzz and sold out shows kept extending the production so that now it feels open-ended. In fact, the McKittrick's offerings have been expanded to include two nightlife spaces that aren't part of the show at all. One is the rooftop bar and small plate restaurant Gallow Green. The other is the restaurant/lounge/music venue The Heath. Gallow Green is a fantastically charming roof garden with overflowing plants and greenery to mark the different areas and a fine selection of wine, beer, and cocktails. It's great on a summer night. But my favorite part was The Heath. It's reminiscent of a lounge in a train depot of a finer era. Some of the tables are even set up like a dining car. The restaurant tables were moved away after 11 to make way for the house band, The Heathens, who got the audience dancing with hours of funky, pulsing tunes. Both spaces are not part of <i>Sleep No More</i> so anyone can head over for an evening out. Happily, I found getting in around 11 on a Friday was no problem. There was a line but it moved quickly and there didn't seem to be anyone being turned away.<br />
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<i>Sleep No More</i> might not be for everyone. There were even audience members during my show who seemed to have stopped caring and were just sitting around. But if you're willing to think of the show not as a story, but as a chance to explore a fully realized and evocative world in which the story takes place, you'll have a theater experience you won't forget.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02913900331338800605noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8406436286979342761.post-58738271171311883392014-09-15T17:32:00.000-04:002014-09-15T21:19:36.983-04:00Neighborhood Guides - Astoria, Queens There's a feeling to Astoria, a kind of nostalgic haze of old New York that hangs over the neighborhood. When you imagine growing up on the streets of New York the image is just like Astoria, filled with playgrounds, swimming pools, the smell of fresh pastries, and grandparents tending their front gardens. The life of the sidewalks is timeless, but the new residents of Astoria epitomize modern New York. Diverse immigrants from dozens of nations mix with long-time residents and newly arriving professionals. It's the perfect neighborhood for visitors to experience the best of everyday life in New York, and perfect for enjoying bars, restaurants, cafes, shops, parks, and the city's diversity.<br />
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<b>HISTORY:</b><br />
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Queens developed much more slowly than the better placed and lucrative cities of Brooklyn and New York. The old ports developed further south on the East River and Queens County found itself far north of the region's economic center. In fact, it was generally considered part of the rural surroundings of Long Island, especially since Queens' scattered villages were all independent towns.<br />
It was 1839 that Astoria's development began. Stephen A. Halsey was a wealthy businessman connected to the fur trade. He settled in a rural area called Hallet's Cove, named for the first Dutch landowner of the area. After a few years he decided to develop a village complete with schools, shops, homes, and a ferry to Manhattan. He even attempted to raise funds for the village by naming it after his old business associate John Jacob Astor, calling the village Astoria. He hoped to procure a donation from the elderly Astor, but befitting a developer of legendary stinginess Astor donated little or nothing and never visited the new settlement. Nevertheless the area became a haven for wealthy residents building fine homes along the waterfront streets. Many of the beautiful Victorian homes and mansions still survive on 12th and 14th Streets, surrounded by modern development.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1862 Currier and Ives print of Astoria from Manhattan</td></tr>
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The next decades would see the arrival of lots of new businesses, spurred by a new Long Island Railroad terminal in Hunter's Point, a few miles south. In particular, firms managed by German immigrants would arrive in large numbers. In 1859, the United German Cabinet Workers arrived to develop areas further inland as a German workers development. A year later, German-born William Steinway moved his successful piano business to the undeveloped northeast section on the neighborhood. He would build a factory, blocks of company housing, and move into a huge mansion for himself. All of those structures still remain and Steinway & Sons still makes some of the finest pianos on Earth right in Astoria.</div>
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Despite the growth and development, the area remained outside the main business center of New York City. Ferries took Queens residents from Hallet's Cove and, further south from Hunter's Point over to Manhattan. But they remained the only route to Manhattan until into the 20th Century.</div>
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Queens was forever changed by the construction of the Queensboro Bridge in 1909 and the opening of the Long Island Railroad tunnel to Manhattan in 1910. Suddenly, the rural towns and factory districts of Queens were opened to Manhattan's business centers. Commuters could easily commute from Astoria to Manhattan. In 1917, the neighborhood's current subway service enabled direct service to Grand Central Station and Astoria's real estate boom was on. Early arrivals included Italian and Central Europeans, who gave the neighborhood some its oldest current businesses. Most of the current houses and apartments in Astoria are from this early 20th century building boom.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">14th Street in Old Astoria in 1911</td></tr>
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The last 50 years have led to Astoria becoming a hub of new immigrants. Greeks were the first to arrive in the 60s and 70s. They came in huge numbers and eventually peaked in the 80s as more than 25,000 of the neighborhood's residents. Since then, immigrants have come from all over the Mediterranean, including Albania, Turkey, Croatia, Bosnia, Egypt, Algeria, Malta, and Morocco. The mix of groups from that region have given the neighborhood the relaxed cafe culture that defines Mediterranean cities. But the different smells of hookahs, baklava, Greek coffee, schwarmas, and other goodies make Astoria more exciting than any one Mediterranean city. Other immigrants from Brazil, Colombia, and Mexico have added even more cultural character the the neighborhood. And finally, an influx of young professionals, in particular those working in the Broadway theaters, have added more different cafes, bars, and shops. Astoria has gone from being a rural enclave, to one of New York's cultural centers. So let's check out some of the sights!<br />
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<b>LANDMARKS:</b><br />
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RFK AND HELL GATE BRIDGES<br />
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<b> </b>DUMBO in Brooklyn has become one of the most sought-after and scenic neighborhoods in the city partially because of the beautiful twin spans of the Brooklyn and Manhattan Bridges soaring over the neighborhood. But DUMBO isn't the only East River neighborhood with twin bridges. The RFK (formerly Triboro) and Hell Gate Bridges dominate the views in the northwest part of the Astoria.<br />
The Hell Gate is New York's only large railroad-only bridge and was built in 1917 to connect Penn Station to New England's rail system. The bridge still carries Amtrak service to and from Boston (and affords an amazing skyline view if you're ever on that train). The name Hell Gate is curious and colorful. The Bridge shares its name with the narrow stretch of the East River that passes between Astoria and Randall's Island. Originally, the Dutch called it "Hellegat," which implies a narrow passage or channel. The term used to refer to whole East River, but the anglicized version came to refer only to the narrowest section, here at Astoria. The English meaning is an appropriate one though as Hell Gate is where the tides from Long Island Sound and New York Harbor converge and the channel will surge one direction, then rip the other forming eddies and whirlpools. The unpredictable currents, rocks, and reefs made this the hardest section of New York waterways to sail through. There's no public access to the Hell Gate bridge, but it does make a wonderful backdrop to the streets and parks at the northwest end of the neighborhood.<br />
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The RFK Bridge opened for traffic in 1936, the central project of all-powerful city planner Robert Moses' career. The plan to construct three bridges, linked by the East River islands of Randall's and Ward's Islands had actually begun before the Great Depression. But the project floundered until the confluence of government money from the New Deal combined with Moses's desire to connect his newly built network of parkways, parks, and beaches scattered all over New York State created renewed interest in the project. Moses actually used the construction of the bridge to create a separate government authority (headed by him) called the Triborough Bridge Authority that directed massive city building projects for the next two decades. It was Moses' position of autonomy and authority as head of the Triborough and other agencies that allowed him to make sweeping changes to NYC's roads, housing, and parks with almost no outside input or control. But all that is long in the past and the bridge is now run by the Metropolitan Transit Authority. The main suspension-span rises up from the sunken highway along Astoria Blvd to eventually soar over the waterfront parks and homes of Old Astoria. And while it may not have the fame of walking across the Brooklyn Bridge, there are some stellar views from the walkway of the distant Midtown skyline. The views are particularly good in the center of the bridge where the sidewalk rises above the roadway and the chain-link fencing gives way.<br />
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MUSEUM OF THE MOVING IMAGE AND KAUFMAN ASTORIA STUDIOS<br />
Corner of 36th Street and 35th Avenue.<br />
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This is one of my favorite street corners in the whole city. It's located at the southeastern end of the neighborhood, at the confusing confluence of Queens' street and avenue numbers. Be sure to head to the corner of 36th STREET and 35th AVENUE not some other iteration of those numbers. The corner is filled with film history and dominated by the imposing Kaufman Astoria Studios, one of the largest and the oldest film studio in the city. Feature films have been produced in the studio since 1920, when it was the home of Paramount Pictures. Silent films featuring Rudolph Valentino and W.C. Fields were filmed there, as were the first two Marx Brothers films. But as World War II dawned, Paramount moved their full production to Hollywood and the studio actually joined the war effort as the Army used it to create training and propaganda films. After a period of disrepair the studio was revived by government interest, investors, and film legends in the 70s and filming returned with the production of <i>The Wiz.</i> Over the past 35 years the studio has been used for great movies like <i>Scent of a Woman</i>, <i>The Warriors</i>, <i>Moonstruck</i>, <i>Ransom</i>, and the <i>Bourne</i> franchise. Plus it's been the home of great TV like <i>The Cosby Show</i>, <i>Orange is the New Black</i>, and most famously <i>Sesame Street</i>, which has been filmed on Kaufman Astoria's stages since 1993. So now if someone asks you "how to get to Sesame Street," you'll know the answer.<br />
The Museum of the Moving Image brings the magical process of making film and television back to reality by showing what goes on behind the screen. The main collection features all kinds of historic cameras, sets, and costumes. It also provides fantastic interactive exhibits that give visitors a chance to try their skill at editing, sound effects, and stop-motion animation. There's even a great collection of arcade and video games available to play. Best of all, in 2015 a permanent exhibit on the life and work of Jim Henson will open featuring his most beloved creations, including those for their next door neighbors on <i>Sesame Street</i>. And if all this movie magic makes you want to see the newest releases, there is a multiplex around the corner on 38th Street.<br />
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STEINWAY PIANO FACTORY<br />
Steinway Street between 19th Avenue and Berrian Blvd.<br />
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<i style="font-weight: bold;"> </i>For almost 150 years, Astoria has been where one of the most famous musical instruments in the world are made: Steinway Pianos. Steinway & Sons is one of the most iconic businesses in New York's history. In 1870, William Steinway was on the the hunt for a new location for his booming piano business. His father Heinrich began making pianos in Germany in 1835, had moved the business to NYC, and now William was presiding over the most prestigious instrument manufacturer in America. Steinway & Sons had just built a brand new factory along the railroad tracks on 4th Ave (now known as Park Avenue) but was already looking for a new location. William was dreaming big, imagining an entire company town where his family and employees would all live in close proximity to their work. He also hoped that by removing the workers from Manhattan's tenements and providing them with lots of amenities in their new home he would quash labor unrest that was growing in New York City's working class.<br />
There simply wasn't enough space in Manhattan for Steinway's grand vision, so he looked across the East River. At the time, Queens and Brooklyn were separate cities and towns. But the East River waterfront of both counties had become busy with industry and shipping. So William moved his production to the growing city of Long Island City, in Queens County (which included Astoria) where he purchased more than 400 acres of land. The factory remains today.<br />
In addition to the production facilities, William Steinway created rowhouses to house his workers. He also built parks, post offices, schools, churches, beer halls, and other German cultural centers. He even built a more family-friendly alternative to Coney Island's waterfront amusements on the East River and called the theme park North Beach. Unfortunately, nothing is left of the amusement park as it closed during prohibition and the ruins were demolished to construct LaGaurdia Airport. William Steinway also invested in streetcar lines in Western Queens to provide transport for his workers. One of his grandest schemes involved building a tunnel under the East River to provide a connection for his streetcar line into Manhattan. Construction on the tunnels actually was completed but streetcars weren't powerful enough to chug up the tunnels grade and more powerful cars weren't economical. So while his streetcar never ran through the tunnels, they were co-opted by the Interborough Rapid Transit Co. who used them for their first subway line to Queens. They are still used by the 7 subway line today.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Schuetzen Park picnic grounds, near Steinway Village</span></div>
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Remarkably, parts of Old Steinway Village can still be seen. The intersection of 20th Avenue and 41st Street (as well as the stretch of 41st Street to the south) contains many of the original workers' homes in excellent condition. William Steinway's mansion is still standing on 41st Street between 19th and Berrian Avenues. The 5-bedroom mansion is difficult to see clearly from the road, but some <a href="http://ny.curbed.com/archives/2014/05/06/steinway_mansions_new_owners_to_save_house_develop_land.php" target="_blank">photos</a> from the recent sale (for $2.6 million) of the house can give you an idea of the grandeur. I particularly like the hot tub flanked by marble lions. But most importantly, the Steinway & Sons Company still makes their grand pianos in Astoria. The factory employs more than 200 people, and each piano takes about a year to build. Their factory offers one free tour a week on Tuesdays at 9:30, though reservations must be made waaaaaaaay in advance. They are often booked at least 6 months out.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo by Mamta Badkar, from Business Insider</td></tr>
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NOGUCHI MUSEUM<br />
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33rd Road between Vernon Blvd and 10th Street.<br />
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This is a really well-done small museum, though it might not appeal to everyone. The entire space is dedicated to the work of New York-based sculptor Isamu Noguchi. Noguchi is a great example of the hybrid of ideas and mediums that flourished in Greenwich Village in the mid-20th century. Noguchi was Japanese-American, born in Los Angeles, raised in Japan, grew up in Indiana, and would spend time studying in New York, Paris, China, India, Mexico and other far-flung places before setting up a permanent studio, just off of Washington Square Park in the Village. His career was incredibly varied. He is most known for his large public sculptures and for the Eastern, modernist themes of his work. But he also produced stage sets, furniture, playgrounds and plazas, and all kinds of design for the milieu of talent residing in Greenwich Village.<br />
He moved to Astoria in 1961, moving into a new studio and residence among the stone and metal suppliers and fabricators so crucial to his work. In 1974, he purchased the current museum building as extra studio space and warehouse across the street from his main studio. The museum was actually one of Noguchi's projects towards the end of his life in the 1980s. He designed the Japanese Garden that serves as the entrance to the museum as well as the gallery space inside. He even selected the works to be shown in the main gallery. So the museum serves as a unique space where the artist himself designed a museum for his own work.<br />
Noguchi's sculpture is very modern and abstract. It features bold shapes and clean lines and curves. There is very little that is objective in the work. If you prefer classical art, or just don't care for modern art in general, than the collection won't hold much appeal. But if you like modern sculpture and design, or appreciate Eastern art and philosophy, then go for a visit. The museum is a peaceful, zen-like space that provides a great meditative environment in a chaotic city. And you can appreciate Noguchi's work without visiting the museum. His 1968 piece "Red Cube" stands at Liberty Street and Broadway, right on the route between the World Trade Center and Wall Street. The precariously perched cube, standing on one pointed end, is a popular photo op for visitors who love to pose as if they are holding up the giant cube.<br />
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ASTORIA PARK AND POOL<br />
19th Street between Hoyt Ave and Ditmars Blvd.<br />
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Astoria's largest green space is a neighborhood gem. It's always filled with picnickers, joggers, skateboarders, dog-owners, and anyone Astoria who just needs a place to relax. It's the best vantage point for taking in Astoria's twin bridges or watching the tide rip through Hell Gate. It's also one of the best sunset spots in the city, especially in the cold months where the sun sets behind the Manhattan high-rises and the RFK Bridge. But the most famous feature of the park, is the city's largest swimming pool.<br />
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The park was created in 1913, but major improvements were ushered in by ever-controversial Robert Moses and the Federal Government during the Great Depression. The culmination of that work was the new Astoria Pool, which opened in 1936. The 54,000 square foot pool originally accommodated 6,200 swimmers, though is limited to a mere 3,000 at a time today. The diving platforms on the south side of the pool are now derelict, but they actually hosted the the U.S. Olympic diving trials in 1936 and 1964. The pool itself is still in great condition and draws bathers from all over Queens on hot summer days. And its dramatic place between the two bridges remains one of the city's iconic summer spots.<br />
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LITTLE EGYPT<br />
Steinway Street between 28th Ave and Astoria Blvd.<br />
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Astoria is an incredibly diverse community, full of foods and smells from all over the world, in particular the Mediterranean world. The neighborhood's North African community comes together to shop, eat, smoke, socialize, and worship on this stretch of Steinway street. While Egyptians are the dominant group, flags and foods of Algeria, Tunisia, and Morocco can also be seen. Travel agents specializing in pilgrimages to Mecca pepper the block. The muezzin's call to prayer can be heard at regular intervals from the mosques. And all through the streets, the smells from the hookah bars permeate. It would be scene from a Middle Eastern travel brochure, if the buildings didn't look so much like Queens. Adventurous foodies flock to Chef Ali El Sayed's joint, Kabab Cafe, to try his inventive takes on animal parts Americans don't usually eat. Though he also makes a mean falafel for those less adventurous.<br />
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<b>FOOD & DRINK</b><br />
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Astoria is one of the great food destinations in NYC. Classic food and drink of its Central and Southern European roots mixes with the new food of hip young newcomers and immigrants alike. And no neighborhood in NYC seems to appreciate a sidewalk cafe the way Mediterranean Astoria does. Tables litter the sidewalks on Broadway and 30th Avenue where locals young and old enjoy the streets well into the evening. The options are endless, but some of my favorites are:<br />
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BOHEMIAN HALL & BEER GARDEN<br />
24th Ave between 31st and 29th Streets<br />
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This is the most famous drinking destination in Queens, and it's no contest. Queensites even joke about always being asked if they "live near the beer garden" by friends from Brooklyn and Manhattan. In fact, most New Yorkers don't even refer to it as Bohemian Hall, they simply call it "the beer garden."<br />
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Beer gardens used to be a common sight in NYC. Immigrants from Germany and other Middle European nations established them in neighborhoods all over the city to serve as community gathering spaces and cultural centers. Bohemian Hall was founded as a gathering place for the Bohemian (a region of the Czech Republic) community of Astoria in 1910. Since that time, all the city's beer gardens and breweries closed due to Prohibition and the nation's breweries consolidated into the big breweries that dominate the country today. But the Bohemian Hall kept chugging along, and has found itself poised to take advantage of a renewed fervor in the country's beer history and craft brewing. All over NYC, new beer halls and gardens have been opening, but they are all just an imitation of the original. Today, the garden hums with patrons of all ages and backgrounds enjoying warm days, cool shade, fine Czech beers, and even the occasional traditional music and dancing on the central stage. The building adjacent to the garden hosts traditional cultural events and a Czech and Slovak school. And in a case of history coming full circle, Astoria-based microbrewery SingleCut brewers had been tapped to make a wheat pilsner exclusively for the beer garden. And all the talk of oompah music and excellent beer overlooks the quite good food from the grill. Not only are klobasas and other suasages delicious. But the kitchens turn out Czech classics like potato pancakes, goulash, and roast pork and dumplings.<br />
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TAVERNA KYCLADES<br />
Ditmars Blvd between 33rd and 35th Street.<br />
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Not only does Kyclades put out the best Greek seafood in the neighborhood, it manages to convey the feeling of being in a neighborhood place deep in the heart of Athens. Granted, that's probably due to the tens of thousands of Greeks that have emigrated to Astoria in the last 40 years, making it one of the two largest Greek ex-pat communities in the world (the other being Melbourne, Australia). There's always a big crowd waiting, but happily the staff will bring you out a glass of wine on the house to enjoy on the sidewalk while you wait. Once inside, the staff careens around yelling at each other in Greek for a dose of pure Mediterranean mayhem. The seafood is as good as if it just came off the docks. I first fell in love with grilled octopus at Kyclades. Lemon potatoes and Greek salads are classic sides. And the fresh grilled fish is absolutely fantastic. But beyond the food, it's the sense of authenticity that gives this place a special vibe. It's not the most scenic restaurant, but it has the best ambiance.<br />
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VESTA TRATTORIA & WINE BAR<br />
21st Street and 30th Ave<br />
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This was one of the best Italian eateries I've been to anywhere in NYC. This relatively new establishment embraces the local and sustainable food movements. Rather than getting ingredients from far-flung Italian sources, they take whatever's fresh and homemade in the kitchen and craft the seasonal menu from there. The veggies are fresh and amazing, the pastas are an incredible homemade texture, and the wine list is fantastic. It's not breaking new culinary ground, but it's doing what it does incredibly well. And by the way, get the Baby Jesus Cake for desert.<br />
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BUTCHER BAR<br />
30th Ave between 37th Street and 38th Street.<br />
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NYC may not be a destination for barbecue. But that doesn't mean there aren't a few smokemasters in New York that know what they're doing. Butcher Bar is a meat shop first. Locals come in and out for their groceries, picking from the organic, grass-fed, sustainable cuts of meat. But there are a number of small tables in the front and in the garden to order up some excellent slow-cooked barbecue. The brisket is award-winning and the burnt ends and ribs make a great choice too. The only drawback is no license for alcohol, but hopefully that will change in short order.<br />
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THE QUEENS KICKSHAW<br />
Broadway between 41st Street and Steinway Street<br />
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Lots of simple, humble foods have been gussied up lately. There's hand-crafted meatballs, sliders, and even gefilte fish. But Kickshaw leads the way in high class grilled cheese sandwiches. It's a great spot for a casual meal, but the grilled cheeses are far from casual. One favorite features black bean hummus, guava jam, and pickled jalapenos. The salads are also tasty. And there is a nice wine, beer, and cider menu.<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02913900331338800605noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8406436286979342761.post-67141807949181474872014-08-22T17:18:00.000-04:002014-08-22T17:18:41.621-04:00Nightmare Artie Shaw was one of the most popular bandleaders of the Swing Jazz era. A succession of bands he led with his gliding clarinet produced massive hits in the late 30s and his radio audiences and record sales rivaled and sometimes surpassed the popularity of his rival, the great Benny Goodman. He was selling millions of records in 1938 and '39, touring to raucous crowds around the country. He led the most popular band in the nation. And then, he suddenly broke up the band, retreated to Mexico and went quiet.<br />
He would form another, smaller band shortly thereafter but the pattern of break-up and then diverting to a new direction would define Shaw's life and career. He defined the archetype of the reluctant star who disdains his success, spurns his fans, rejects commercial opportunities, pursues a unique artistic vision, constantly seeks new artistic ground, and ultimately gives it all up without a thought to his legacy or future career. It's no wonder that in a musical genre defined by good times and happy feet, his self-penned theme song would be a stark, droning, macabre number called "Nightmare."<br />
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<a name='more'></a> Shaw was born Arthur Arshawsky in New York City to Russian and Austrian Jewish parents and grew up in New Haven, Connecticut. His Jewish background is key to understanding the Jazz Age and how many of the White musicians of the time fit into it. While jazz may have been invented and perfected by Black musicians, it was often Jewish musicians, like Shaw, Benny Goodman, Al Jolson, and Paul Whiteman who brought the music to the masses. And it was in New York, where Black and Jewish newcomers arrived in huge numbers in the decades before the 20s that the two groups would coalesce. Jewish musicians essentially acted as a bridge between the Black and White cultures of America. The new sounds of a persecuted minority resonated with Jewish young people who could empathize with the difficulties of life in America as a second-class citizen, subject to segregation and demagoguery. But their European features often gave them an appeal to mainstream audiences that Black musicians could never match. Not only that, many large clubs and theaters refused to allow Black musicians to play and limited their exposure to White audiences. Shaw, like many other Jewish bandleaders, respected and admired his Black counterparts and did all he could to try to de-segregate the music industry. He was the first White bandleader to hire a full-time Black lead singer, a good decision since the singer was Billie Holiday. Unfortunately, the difficulty in pulling off this integration was made clear on their first tour together. Billie quit the band after dealing with constant racism and segregation from club-owners and audiences on tour.<br />
"Nightmare" is a great example of that blending of Black and Jewish cultures. Shaw was a master jazz clarinetist, but it wasn't just hot jazz that informed Shaw's style. He was a great fan of classical music from Debussy and Stravinsky and would often try to incorporate classical elements into his music. His first big hit was called "Interlude in B Minor" and featured his smooth, jazzy clarinet over a classical strings accompaniment. "Nightmare" took the fusion of Black and Jewish sounds even farther by taking its inspiration from a cantor's nigun, a musical feature of Hasidic religious services.<br />
But it wasn't just a Hasidic influence that signaled Shaw's unique personality. A theme song was a band's intro, played as soon as the MC announced the performers. It began, and ended, concerts and radio broadcasts. It was the band and the bandleader's signature. Most chose upbeat and danceable hits like Duke Ellington's "Take the A Train." But "Nightmare" sounds like the opening credits to a horror movie or a Twilight Zone episode. The woodwinds and percussion slowly keep a steady and unaltering rythym while the horns seem to scream the song's first impression. Eventually Shaw's trumpet brings the song back to reality with his characteristic silky runs. But the final horn crescendo would fit right into a Hitchcock climax. Shaw's personality was similarly unsettled. He often would break up his bands when the pressures of fitting into commercial styles irked his artistic ambitions. He went through 8 wives in his life, including Ava Gardner, but most marriages lasted only a few years. He would attempt to infuse his music with classical, afro-caribbean, salsa, and bebop, often alienating fans and critics. He eventually retired from music for good in the 50s and spent time becoming an author, expert marksman, and top fly-fisherman. He remained enigmatic and reclusive for most of his life, but his music continued to influence new generations of musicians to blend different styles into the fabric of jazz. And just so you can see him in action, check him out in action playing his biggest hit, "Begin the Beguin."<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/pCXVxE_YeP4" width="480"></iframe>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02913900331338800605noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8406436286979342761.post-36125172346853528132014-07-21T22:16:00.001-04:002014-07-21T22:16:34.036-04:00Broadway Alternatives: The Bell House Few venues in the city are as eclectic as The Bell House. The venue stands in a former printing press building near the banks of Brooklyn's industrial waterway, the Gowanus Canal. The location might be uninspiring (unless fetid sewer water inspires you) but the ramshackle old industrial buildings bristle with creative energy. Up the hill in either direction might be the fine homes and well-to-do families of Carroll Gardens and Park Slope, but down in the valley it's more freewheeling. The Bell House anchors the neighborhood with some great entertainment for folks who aren't impressed by bright lights and expensive bottle service.<br />
In the front of the venue is a large and charming lounge. The old garage doors open wide onto the street allowing people to gather around outside on pleasant nights. Inside, sofas and lounge chairs allow everyone to hang out before the shows start. It's a striking thing about the best venues in the city that they all have comfortable places to hang out separate from the venue. It helps when the front bar is a simple neighborhood place that you'd want to hang out.
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Once inside the venue, the space is ample but still cozy. The stage is pushed forward and quite large for the space. And there's a second bar inside to make it easy to get whatever you need. But what makes The Bell House so fun is how varied their offerings are.<br />
Music might be the core offering but it's only a part of what gets presented. Performances include burlesque shows, trivia led by local news anchor Pat Kiernan, cult movie showings, science and exploration talks, and free-wheeling dance nights. The music tends to lean towards Americana and Rock N Roll. One performance I caught was a great collection of folk and bluegrass acts to raise money for an old waterfront bar damaged by Hurricane Sandy. There's a regular recording of a quiz show for the local public radio affiliate WNYC. And still going strong after 12 years is their monthly house party, dubbed "The Rub." The ethos is one of fun and inclusion. There are no guest DJs there to show off obscure records, and everyone is welcome to come as they are, enjoy some cheap drinks, and dance the night away to old school soul, funk, hip-hop, and disco. And as an added bonus, the local subway station has the highest elevated platform in the city, with awesome views of Lower Manhattan.<br />
And if The Bell House doesn't have what you're looking for, their sister venue Union Hall up the hill in Park Slope for plenty more stand-up comedy, bluesy rock music, and fun times.<br />
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<b>The Bell House:</b><br />
149 7th Street, Brooklyn<br />
Take the F or G train to Smith-9th Street.<br />
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<iframe frameborder="0" height="450" src="https://www.google.com/maps/embed?pb=!1m14!1m8!1m3!1d3026.012115703956!2d-73.991714!3d40.673702!3m2!1i1024!2i768!4f13.1!3m3!1m2!1s0x0%3A0xa22e61a57b3f7ca1!2sThe+Bell+House!5e0!3m2!1sen!2sus!4v1405995248488" style="border: 0;" width="600"></iframe>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02913900331338800605noreply@blogger.com0